Introduction: Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

Picture of Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

As far back as I can remember, I've always been impressed by very large trees. As a kid, I considered sequoias as the giant trees from California and I would often recognize them in documentaries. Later, I realized that there actually were some of those trees growing around my place... in France. I started to make an inventory of them and tried to visit the ones publicly accessible. Some of them turned out to have cones on the ground. I decided to harvest them, extract the seeds and plant them.

That's how I realized it wasn't exactly straightforward. After a few methods and weeks of patience, I came to realize that most of the seeds where not viable and that my soil was not appropriate. After a bit of research, I gathered growing tips and devised my own method.

Here's a guide based on my past failures and success.

Step 1: Get Some Giant Sequoia Seeds

Picture of Get Some Giant Sequoia Seeds

The first step as you can guess is to get some seeds. You have 2 choices there: harvest them or order them.

Harvesting seed, while not being the most efficient method is probably the most rewarding since you'll go from picking up a cone on the ground to having your own tree. You might also be able to trace the genealogy of your seedling since you'll already know the parent tree.

If you decide to harvest the seed, try to find a mature sequoias tree and look for green cones on the ground. They are the ones with the highest chance of germination (20 to 40% in their natural habitat). Let them dry inside the house. The cones will slowly open and shed their seeds.

Another solution is to order the seeds. I ordered some from J.L Hudson. 1 ounce costs $36 which is a good deal considering the amount of seeds in the envelope. These seeds come from mature trees and have a high germination rate (> 40%). Look for the latin name Sequoiadendron giganteum.

Step 2: Cold Stratification

Picture of Cold Stratification

Like most coniferous trees, the seeds of giant sequoia trees need to spend a bit of time in the cold to soften their shell and lift the seed dormancy. A period of 4 weeks is a good minimum.

Here's a method I found online: to lift the dormancy, grab a paper towel. Make sure the paper is chemical free. I used a coffee filter to be sure it had no perfume on it. Using gloves or clean hands, take some seeds and place them on the paper. You can now fold the filter in half (I actually use 3 layers under and 1 layer over).

Wet the filter (not too much) and place it in a sandwich bag with a bit of air. Put the bag in the fridge and wait 4 weeks.

When the time is up, place the bag in a dark spot at room temperature. The temperature gradient will make the seeds sprout. After a few days, open the bag and look for sprouted seeds. If you see some, take them out, we will plant them right now. Put the bag back in the shade and check regularly for new seedlings.

Step 3: Prepare the Soil

Picture of Prepare the Soil

Now is the time to put the seeds in the soil. Prepare individual pots using standard potting soil. Sequoia seedlings require a wet but well drained soil. Humidity is a key factor to the success of growing your seedlings. If you ever let the soil dry a little too much, the seedlings will almost surely die. However, too much water and the base of the seedling will rot and the plant will fall to the ground.

To prevent moulds and fungal parasites, add some fungicide to the potting mix, stir and fill the pots. make a hole in the center and place the already sprouted seed. Lightly water the soil.

Step 4: Watch for Seedlings

Picture of Watch for Seedlings

The stem of your seedlings should soon make a red upside down U shape. The seed envelope will slowly rise up and fall when the first cotyledons start growing.

Seedlings can have from 3 to 5 cotyledons (first leaves). After a few days, you will see the first real leaves show up in the centre. If your seedlings made it that far, it usually means they are less likely to die from stem rot.

During this stage of development, the plants should be kept in the shade to prevent any desiccation.

Step 5: Expose Seedlings to More Light

Picture of Expose Seedlings to More Light

After a few weeks, the plants will start to grow branches. This is an indicator that they are ready for a bit more sunlight. Slowly move your plants in a brighter environment but avoid direct sunlight.

When your plants have been acclimated to the sun, you can move them outside during the day. Be careful to always keep the soil humid.

Step 6: Transplant Your Sequoias Outside

Picture of Transplant Your Sequoias Outside

When the plants are about 4 to 6" tall, it is better to take them out of their pot and grow them directly in the ground. This will ensure that they don't dry up and it will give space for the roots to spread.

Once you found a place large enough (a 10m radius is a good start) you can plant your sequoia at its definitive spot. Remember to add some slow release conifer fertilizer to boost the roots production during the following year.

If you have deer in your area, protect your young tree with chicken wire during the first years of growth as deer love to chew on buds and young stems in the spring.


Fool4iam (author)2017-10-23

Thank You for the instructions. I now have 8 redwood sprouts from our trip to Redwood Reg Park (Oakland) in September. I harvested the seeds from a few cones. Praying they make it. Thank you again!!

MelissaD141 (author)2017-10-11

Hello! Do you recommend any additional instructions for growing in climates like Ohio? Perhaps keeping them indoors longer? Thanks!

ThomasJ1 (author)MelissaD1412017-10-12

Hi Melissa,

For young seedlings, you could probably keep them in a pot for the first winter in a cool place. But I wouldn't worry too much about the temperature because once they are covered in snow, they have a good protection against the cold. Here are some specimen growing in Ohio:

Sometimes the leaves turn to a reddish brown color when it gets cold but they turn back to green in the spring.

Iuvigi. (author)2017-07-04

Hello Thomas,

I have been growing sequoias for a year and a half now. From 100 seeds, 20 germinated and now I have 8 left. I couldn't save them but still dont know why. I water the plants every day in the evening. I think I made their roots to rot as at some point this year some of them started changing color and then just "dried out". Since I havent changed the daily watering - probably that was too much. For example - the first one that I am sending. You can see the bottom branches dried out while in the pot. I planted it outside (Eastern Europe) where it gets a lot of full sunlight and continued watering. For the moment it seems OK. The drying stopped. But the next one did not have that success. It again started changing color and I planted it outside. However the weather after that was very hot for several days and even though I watered it every day - it started to dry out. The branches are not so green anymore and ... yea... probably its gone.

So it becomes clear I probably caused rotting their roots with the daily watering. I know the Joe's advise when to water but it seems it should not be on a daily basis.

My worst experience was 5 days ago. One of the plants started turning yellow-brawn and I rushed to plant it outside hoping to save its overwatered roots. I planted it in the morning of the what came to be the hottest day in the region for 20 years (42 Celsius). It went brown before sunset the same day. That was heartbreaking. Couldn't even take a picture of it.

So do you have any idea how can I save the plant if the roots already started rotting?

ThomasJ1 (author)Iuvigi.2017-07-04

Hi Iuvigi,

Watering is a critical part, especially when the plant is young (a few weeks old). From germination until the stage where it starts forming branches, you want to keep sufficient moisture in the pot. If the pot is small (3 or 4 inches), you may want to water every day. If it's larger, you'll want to water less often because it retains more moisture. Once the plants are planted outside, they will grow longer roots that will reach humidity deeper in the soil.

Root rot occurs when drainage is poor and watering too frequent. A compact soil or a pot with no drainage holes can induce root rot. When it occurs, there's not much you can do to save the plant. You can still try to remove most of the soil around the roots, spray some fungicide and replant in dry soil. Potting soil from your local gardening center is a good option.

Another recommended practice would be to place the young seedlings outside in the sun for a few hours as soon as they have a few branches. It will increase their resistance to direct sunlight and wind, making the stem thicker. It will also dry the soil and make the foliage denser.

If the plants have built that resistance to the sun, you can plant them outside in spring or summer as long as you water well during the first weeks. If they have always been inside, I recommend to plant them outside in the fall, when the sun is less bright and the growth season is over.

Iuvigi. (author)ThomasJ12017-09-01

Just to sum up my experience:

The young sequoias suffer from 2 things: less water and to much water.

1 - if it is too hot the normal watering may not be enough. If the soil in the pot starts shrinking and collapses around the tree - its a sign of it. The young sequoias dry out like a human. Their branches and stem becomes skinny like around a bone. You could see it if you constantly compare it with a healthy tree. That is your last chance to save it. If you see the branches turning brawn and drying out - its done.

2 - if you water them every day and the water has nowhere to go but remain in the pot, sooner or latter the end of the branches will start turning yellow without drying out. You have a chance - get them outside and stop watering for 2-3 days. I saved one out of 4 like that.

One more tip - the roots of a one year old giant sequoia is not so big - the visible part is like a normal man's fist. So its still possible to replant them.

Iuvigi. (author)ThomasJ12017-09-01

Hello again.

Well out of 4 trees with rotted roots one is still alive... sort of. I rushed planting it outside between 2 big buildings so it had a lot of shade even in the summer. This is how it looks now - more than a month after the introduction to the outside world. The damages are clearly seen but it is still alive. It keeps growing new green branches directly from its stem. I hope it survives until winter.

VladimirP56 made it! (author)2017-06-26

Hello Thomas,

first of all, thank you for this great guide. Because of it I have 6 out of 30 seeds germinated so far, and still waiting for the rest in the moist paper inside of a bag, on room temp. It's quite the hot summer here, so I saved 30 more seeds to stratify/plant sometime in the Autumn.

Now, here's my pickle. In the photo you see first two seedlings I've planted. The left one is the older one. The seed coating came off of younger one, the older one's is still quite attached, I've tried gently to feel if it would come off with a pull, but to no avail.

I'm spitting on it, but for how long should I wait for it to come off and how to take it off myself if it comes to that?

Iuvigi. (author)VladimirP562017-09-01

Sorry for interrupting mate, but aren't these too much watered? They seem sort of waterlogged. I lost several 1-year sequoias because of rotting roots and that's why I want to 'warn you. It is painful.

I think the soil should be kept wet well drained too. And pots lacks the second.

ThomasJ1 (author)VladimirP562017-06-26

Hi Vladimir,

That's a problem I had for a few of my seedlings. Basically, in the wild, the seed is in the ground and when it germinates, the envelope stays in the soil and the seedlings is pulling out of it towards the sun.

In our case, there is nothing constantly pulling on the envelope. I would try adding a drop of water on the spot it is attached and slowly pull on it from time to time. If it doesn't move, try another time. It may drop the envelope at a later stage when the cotyledons become larger and stronger.

If it still hasn't shed it when the new leaves start forming in the center, I would pull a little harder even if it breaks one of the 4 cotyledons. This will give more sunlight to the center of the seedling.

VladimirP56 made it! (author)ThomasJ12017-06-29

Hi, it worked, I have several of them now with cotyledons, but today one of them just closed them. Like it was wide open yesterday, today they're shut like an umbrella. And in general all cotyledons on seedlings seem like losing "freshness", like that green is a bit more yellowish on tips. Any thoughts?

First two photos are from yesterday (you see cotyledons open in the largest pot) and other two are from today (last one is the closed cotyledons)

VladimirP56 (author)VladimirP562017-06-29

Forgot to add, those opened are bending toward the window, light source, should I put them someplace else, like in total shade, so they don't grow bent?

The closed one is just bending down, the opposite way.

UPDATE: And now it opened because I've put it outside on some sun/shade mix under some tree.

But all of them are less open than those on your photos, is that normal? Should I expose them to sun at all at this stage? How much and how often should I water them? They're about a week old now.

Sorry for all the questions, first time doing this and really excited. Would hate it so much if they die, started to care for them as if they were my children :)

ThomasJ1 (author)VladimirP562017-06-29

At that stage, you can place them in a bright spot as long as they are not in direct sunlight. They will need the brightness for the photosynthesis process. That will give them enough resources to grow new leaves at the center. However, direct sunlight will probably roast them at that stage.

Looking at your pictures, I would water them less. Your potting soil looks quite damp. If you had small plastic pots, I would give water once a day. With your larger pots, you will probably need to water them half as much. Maybe once every 2 days and not too much. The rule would be to water only when the soil looks dry (it won't actually be dry deeper).

The leaves curling down is quite normal as they are looking for light. When the curl up that usually means too much water.

crazyskateboarding00 made it! (author)2017-08-04

Hello Thomas

I live in zone 6a-6b in the southern interior of British Columbia Canada and this is my biggest sequoia so far. it is exactly 3 months old as of august 4th 2017. but 2 days ago i moved it to the floor before sundown to get some of the brighter sunlight shinning in threw the window and the next day and today i noticed that some of the needles have been drying out. I usually have it in my window 24 hours a day. i have had no problem till this. my question is have i killed it? i have 2 pictures from today and one where the tree is bent more towards the light when it was is the sunlight the other day that may have caused this.


When you move a plant to a different spot, it may grow differently because it will receive more or less light. Your tree was growing towards the window. If you turn the pot by half a turn, it will straighten back up. The shape is not really an indicator of the health, it's just the plant looking for more light.

As for the "drying" out of the bottom leaves, It could be a re-allocation of resources from the lower leaves to the top ones. It can also be that the plant is not receiving enough sunlight and is getting rid of its lower leaves in order to grow new ones towards the sun. Another thing that can cause this phenomenon is an excess of water in the soil. Make sure the first centimeter of soil is dry before watering again. I would also leave the plant in a bright spot to give it enough energy.

MitchL7 (author)2016-07-17

Hi Thomas,

I was wondering if you could offer me any advice. I followed all your steps and had 22 seeds germinate. They started off great, but all slowly started dying off. Some died because it seemed they couldn't shed their envelope. Others had shed it and just curled up and died later. I started watering them less and they are in a shady spot where they get indirect sunlight just about all day. I am now down to 5 seedlings. Three still with their envelops, they are all about a month old, and none of mine have had leafs yet. I just put 200 more seeds in the fridge so hopefully I can have more success with my second batch! Thank you for any help!

ThomasJ1 (author)MitchL72016-07-18

Hi MitchL7,

I found that I usually have more success when the seed has sprouted not too long ago. That way, when you spot a newly sprouted seed, you can place it in a pot about 1/2" below the surface. If you plant it too shallow, it will grow with the envelope on the cotyledons which will limit the amount of light available to the plant. By planting the seed deeper, the envelope is more likely to stay in the soil. It also helps to keep the seedling at a better moisture level (the surface dries quicker).
Another tip is to place the seed flat or upside down in the pot. It will force the root to bend down and the cotyledons to grow up, away from the envelope.

As for watering, I would suggest to only add water when the surface looks dry. I usually water them once every morning when the weather is hot.

You should also try to move them in a less shady spot once they have the cotyledons spread out. The seeds are small, there's not much energy in it so the seedlings need to get some energy quickly.

Let me know how the second batch goes.

alex_15_10 (author)ThomasJ12017-07-19

Is it possible to bury the seed too deep? Say 1-2 inches under soil. What would happen if it is too deep?

ThomasJ1 (author)alex_15_102017-07-19

I believe 1 inch is still reasonable. When you see the size of the seed, you can guess that there's not much reserve for the young seedling to start with. They can't grow a very long stem because that would use too much energy.

I believe that at 2 inches, the cotyledons may be really close to the ground or even underground and that will limit the ability for the plant to receive the sunlight it needs to grow.

MitchL7 (author)ThomasJ12016-07-18

Thank you! I definately wasnt planting them deep enough and I'll try the other tips as well and see how it goes!

Jusarney (author)MitchL72017-04-13

A good trick if the envelope doesn't come off naturally is to spit on it a few times and then it makes pulling the envelope off easier. Otherwise you will probably uproot it if you pull too hard.

rigo1993 made it! (author)2017-07-18

Hi Thomas,

After following your advice, I have succesfully germinated 15 giant sequoias and counting. However now that their cotyledons are coming out, they look nothing like your pictures.. They're actual leaves and not needles. I got the seeds from and they look exactly like your pictures. Is there an explianation to this?

ThomasJ1 (author)rigo19932017-07-19

Hi Rigo,

You probably received seeds from a Sequoia sempervirens tree ( They are called Coastal Redwood and grow on the coast of northern California. They are beautiful trees that grow taller and faster than Sequoiadendron giganteum. Their trunk is not as wide, they have a different foliage (like a yew tree) and smaller cones.

I have a specimen growing at home and I believe they are a bit more easy to grow. The other nice thing about this species is that when you cut an adult tree, it will make hundreds of new stems at the base and grow a new trunk which is not the case for a Giant Sequoia.

Iuvigi. (author)2017-07-04

And one more question. I have 3 of my trees in the same long
pot. It was a mistake to put them there together but I know that now.

I want to plant them outside but
its summer now and my latest experience showed how unforgiving could the sun be
to them. At the same time - if I leave them in the pot until October I am
afraid their roots will make a real mess and wont be possible to separate them
without damaging them.

So what do you suggest? To take
them out now and risk them to dry on the sun or to wait until autumn and risk
to damage their roots while uprooting them?

ThomasJ1 (author)Iuvigi.2017-07-04

This is a long pot so it shouldn't be too much trouble to separate the trees, even if you break a few roots. You should definitely do that in the fall when the growth season is over. That way, it gives the plant the entire winter to recover from the stress. I usually transplant my trees in November.

If you haven't done so yet, I would place the plants outside in a semi-bright spot and increase sunlight everyday until they can handle direct sunlight. Remember that UV radiation is blocked by glass so it will be a big shock for them if you plant them in the middle of summer without having exposed them to the sun before.

One more tip about water: At this stage, only water when the first inch of soil is dry. The rest of the pot still has enough moisture for the plants.

RonaldR (author)2017-06-22

Where could I get seeds from ? what climate do they grow in ? I am in Australia

ThomasJ1 (author)RonaldR2017-06-22

I ordered my seeds from J.L. Hudson ( from California. They were really good quality (about 50% germination rate). Giant Sequoia trees grow in altitude in the Sierra Nevada, they require a well drained humid soil. In the winter they get several feet of snow and in the summer they rely on that snow pack melting and keeping the ground moist.

When I was in Australia, I remember seeing some Sequoia trees at Melbourne Botanical Garden and also in Tasmania. Ballarat has a huge specimen. I think Queensland may be too hot for the tree. South western Australia would actually work too (Perth, Albany, etc,). The Great Ocean Road and the Great Otway National Park is a good place for the tree too...There's even a small forest along a river.

alex_15_10 (author)2017-06-20

Hi Thomas,

After you put the seeds in the fridge do you just wait 4 weeks and not do anything until the time is up? Or do you water them during those days and if so how often?

Do you also water the seeds after you take them out of the fridge or only when the seeds start to sprout?

ThomasJ1 (author)alex_15_102017-06-22

Hey Alex,

After you put the seeds on the wet paper and inside the bag, the moisture shouldn't leave the bag so you don't need to add any more water.

However, if you see a seed that sprouted, you can take this one out of the bag and put it in wet potting soil. The more you open the bag, the more the moisture will go out so you may need to add a tea spoon of water from time to time.

When you take the bag out of the fridge and put it in a warm dark spot, the same rule applies. No need for additional water unless you open the bag frequently to take the newly sprouted individuals out.

alex_15_10 (author)ThomasJ12017-06-22

Thanks for your reply. I actually had the bag slightly opened so that air can come inside, I did not know that I had to close the bag completely.

SandyS165 (author)2017-05-17

Very helpful information - thank you all.

I purchased 30 seeds on eBay a few months ago and followed instructions exactly. Yesterday, my little seeds popped up five sprouts, today there are seven. I started ten. I started them in an ice cube tray and I'm wondering if I should let them get a bit bigger, or transplant them to individual pots now. I bought a tray, with deep, cone-shaped pots and plan to plant them in the yard directly from the pots. I also bought three 2' trees last year and planted those in the yard, and I know how delicate the roots are and how important it is to not disturb them. Those in the yard made it through the winter and are doing well.

Is a mix of potting soil and some pearlite okay to use with these? I have been spritzing them with water to keep moist and have the tray inside a ziplock baggie - unzipped to help retain some moisture.

Attaching photos...

ThomasJ1 (author)SandyS1652017-05-19

Hi Sandy, this is a good question. At that stage, you'll need a good moisture in the soil (but not too much because of the risk of root rot). Since your tray is fairly small, you will need to sprinkle every day. I would wait until I see the first leaves in the middle of the cotyledons. That is a sign that the main root has started to make secondary roots and the plant is more resistant to transplantation.

If you fear the tray may dry up, you can prepare bigger pots with the exact same soil and moisture level (spray with fungicide to make sure), scoop the seedlings & soil from the ice cube tray and move them delicately to the new bigger pot.

Jusarney (author)2016-10-29

Hi everyone. I have 3 seeds germinated with leaves and everything. Problem is they are all in the same pot and extreme close to each other. What is the safest method to take 2 of them out and plant them in a separate pot? I don't want any of them to die as I only had 5 seeds and 2 didn't germinate.

Jusarney (author)Jusarney2017-03-20

I wanted to give an update on mine. After I moved the trees, they thrived for a little bit but I took a long time for them to actually start growing again. Two of them eventually died and then the third one grew a lot but now 3 months later has suddenly stopped growing. We will wait and see what happens.

ThomasJ1 (author)Jusarney2017-03-20

Giant Sequoias, just like other trees grow by steps. it's true for adult trees and for seedlings. On the first year, your tree might only be 4 inches tall with 2 or 3 branches (it depends what time of year your planted them). Next year it will start growing again from the extremities.
I find that my own trees start growing around April and stop around July.

ThomasJ1 (author)Jusarney2016-11-08

Hi, I would probably wait until they have a few branches. You could put the pot in water for a few minutes and then slowly pull sideways on the base of each stem. Try to keep as much soil around the roots. It will reduce the stress for the plant.

Yu-huaY (author)ThomasJ12017-03-15

Hi ThomasJ1

I had this similar situation where 3 seeds germinated out of 6. I was moving 2 of them into 2 new pots and unfortunately for one of them, the white long tiny root broke off the seed. Is this one dead? I still moved it into a new pot but not sure if I should just discard it. Is there any hope?

ThomasJ1 (author)Yu-huaY2017-03-16

If there were no secondary roots, it's not very likely to survive. You will know soon if it worked or not. If the leaves turn dark green and soft, it's a bad sign.

A general rule for conifers is that they hate being transplanted. That's why it's best to have one seed per pot, so that you don't have to separate to individuals at an early stage.

Still, I hope your seedlings make it !

LindaL148 (author)2016-08-13

I have a few seedlings started that are about a month old. I'm looking for advice on how much sunlight they should get. I don't have a place inside where I can keep them, except for sunny windowsills. Is it better to put them outside in a shady spot? I live in the Seattle area. At what point can I keep them outside?

ThomasJ1 (author)LindaL1482016-08-13

I would still keep them inside for a while. The windowsill with a curtain would be ideal. When they start making the first branches, they are old enough and strong enough to be outside during the day. You will have to put them in the shade of your house (or a tree) in order to keep a good moisture level in the soil. Then you can progressively give them in a sunnier spot each day.
Seattle is a good place to grow Sequoia trees. They need moisture, moderate heat and a rich well drained soil. Here's a page with large specimens in your state:

MichiganDave (author)2016-07-26

Hello, Thomas. A question for you. What climet conditions does your trees need in which to grow well? I'd love the idea of planting this tree in Michigan but I had assumed it would not grow here. I hope you will give me some good news. Thanks for this 'ible.

ThomasJ1 (author)MichiganDave2016-07-28

Hi Dave, it depends where about in Michigan you are located. The Giant Sequoia is usually rated for a USDA zone as low as 6 ( However, there are many examples where it grows in colder climates. Here's a short list of specimen growing in Michigan

MichiganDave (author)ThomasJ12016-07-28

Fantastic, Thomas!
I am not too far from Kent City, so I think this grand tree deserves to grow in my town.
I shall get started on learning what I need to know about them before I order them.
My goal is to get them growing in a few city parks.
Thanks for your inspiration.
I shall keep all of you in the loop of information.
A sincere thanks,

ThomasJ1 (author)MichiganDave2016-07-28

I wish you the best of luck Dave and yes, keep us updated!

Quasi222 (author)2016-07-05

Here is a picture of my small sequoia seedlings.
I have removed the cover as you suggested and placed at a brighter spot. I hope they will develop better now. Thanks for you post!

ThomasJ1 (author)Quasi2222016-07-05

They're looking good. A little bit more light and less water and I bet they'll have a central bud in about a week.

Quasi222 (author)ThomasJ12016-07-05

I hope :)
Many thanks!

Quasi222 (author)2016-07-03

Hi! Could you please help me.
I have followed your instructions to aquire seedlings through your instructions about germination. So now I have some seedlings which have lost their envilopes and cotyledons are showing. However, they have been in this state for about two weeks, I can not se any first leafs yet which i think is stange..
How long does it take before the first real leafs come? I have grown my seedlings inhouse so-far in the shade . What should I do?

ThomasJ1 (author)Quasi2222016-07-04


I think you should see the new leaves showing up in the center after a week or so. You may need to bring more light to your seedlings but no direct sunlight. Do you see anything in the center? The first leaves look like a small bud at the center of the cotyledons.

Quasi222 (author)ThomasJ12016-07-04

I can't se any bud-like feature in the center so-far..
I will se if it improves with some extra indirect light.

By the way, I am growing using one of these plastic "green houses" to maintain humidity. Thought it might be good since i am gtowing indoors.. is that some thing that you do as well? Or do you grow the sequoias outdoors the whole time?

Many thanks for your help!

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