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Picture of Grow organic food without spending $
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OBJECTIVE : Grow organic food producing plants without spending any extra money, while choosing the methods that close the loop between consumption and refuse by recycling household and yard waste, paper, cardboard, food containers, water, and urine.

I am fortunate enough to be living rent free for the year in beautiful and mysterious Roswell NM, I decided I would like to experiment with how to live sustainably and cheaply (two things that go well together), so that in the future I can implement these skills and tricks when I return to a renters life. Naturally this requires skills like gardening, greywatering, composting, and the raiding of dumpsters and recycling bins. I decided to bring all the small things I have learned/developed together into one all encompassing life altering instructable. Along the way I have found other peoples instructables to be very useful so I have linked to them as well. Be sure to look at all the picture notes for details and specifics on the smaller things I have done.

RESULTS: beautiful organic veggies, herbs, healthier richer soil, less water consumption, less household waste, muscles, a tan, admiration from your friends and neighbors (you will be a buffed green hero!) This experiment has changed my life, I kid you not.

 
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Step 1: WHAT YOU NEED

TRANSPORTATION - You will need to do a lot of alley raiding and dumpster diving*, unless you have a great bike trailer (I sure do need a nice bike hint-hint) I'm afraid this might require a car, but with luck you wont have to go too far out your neighborhood, and to minimize gas usage -- just allot a little extra time when you go out on errands and incorporate as many alleys into your route as you can. Keep bins, bags, gloves, rope in your trunk so that you will be ready to salvage whatever may turn up, this way you wont be using more much more gas than you
normally would. See the pictures and notes below for what I found in about 1/2 an hour on my way to pick up my friend from work, train yourself to see the hidden potential in other peoples refuse, of course neighborhoods with yard will probably be more fruitful if you live in the city.

LAND - Anywhere thats has dirt and sun is a good place to start, don't worry if it doesn't have very good soil because we are going to fix that. If the soil seems really questionable you could take a sample to your local county extension for a free soil test. If you have no land check out community gardens, or abandoned lots, or consider container gardening if you only have a roof or balcony.

SEEDS - save from organic non-hybrid veggies, or go to a seed swapping website like:
http://www.seedswapper.com/
http://www.thriftyfun.com/board_seeds.html
http://www.garden.org/seedswap/index.php?q=browse
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/exseed/
or buy from a good seed company like:
http://www.seedsavers.org/
http://www.seedsofchange.com/
http://www.tinyseeds.com/

Robyntheslugsays: "The problem with saving seed is that many plants are hybrids. The seeds from the resulting fruits are often either infertile (Think mules), or are genetic variants without the protections and flavor the parent plant would have. If you save seed, avoid hybrids! (For instance, heirloom varieties tend to work better)"

CLEAR PLASTIC BOTTLES - these are good for making mini green houses

PLANTERS - just look around the house, check the recycle bins

CARDBOARD or STACKS OF NEWSPAPER - Enough to generously cover your garden

MANY MANY BAGS OF YARD WASTE - grass clippings, leaves, spoiled hay try and get a good mix of green and brown avoid anything that might have pesticides on it, black walnut leaves, bermuda grass, anything too seedy). These are easy to find fall and spring if you go down the right alleys looking for them.

FOOD WASTE - nothing meaty or greasy, usually you can find a lot of "about to rot" produce behind small grocery stores.

3 LOADING PALLETS - About the same size

OLD GARDEN HOSES - leaky is OK, spring and fall people throw these out, often found with lawn waste.

MULCH MATERIAL - Here in New Mexico there is a pecan shelling place where one can just go out back and get as much of their discarded pecan shells as one can handle. Think what kind of local byproduct you might be able to get in your area, I've heard many landscaping places will give you free woodchip mulch if you pick it up.

OPTIONAL
RED WIGGLER WORMS - can be found in manure piles or ordered on line

OLD MATTRESS SPRINGS OR OLD FENCING - Go ask a mattress company, or just look around for fences people are throwing out.

BUCKETS - construction site dumpsters, they may have caked sludge to be scraped out

TIRES - behind tire places

BOOKS - Go to the library try and get the following books:
Dam Nation, Dispatches from the Water Underground by Cleo Woelfle-Erskine et all this is an amazing book about water, graywater, urine composting, composting toilets, and how we had better get our act together or we wont have any clean water anymore. Has great advice on greywater systems and a bicycle powered washing machine etc.
Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture by Toby Hemenway
Anything by Bill Mollison (the guy who invented the term "permaculture")
if the library doesn't have those books you should ask them to order them, otherwise just see what else they have especially pertaining to your climate, and general organic gardening.

THINGS YOU MIGHT HAVE TO BUY IF YOU CAN'T FIND OR MAKE (I know I said no money, I just haven't figured out how to do these for free yet. Any suggestions other than the five finger discount?)

HOSE REPAIR KITS - also hose accessories like splitters and sprayers may be needed, but stay away from the soaker hose and fancy irrigation systems OK?

SEED STARTING MIX - it's pretty important to have a good sterile potting mix to start your seeds use coir blocks which are made from coconut fiber (instead of peat moss which is a non renewable resource) vermiculite, perlite. If you think your soil would actually be conducive to seed starting you can sterilize it in the oven at 375 for 45 minutes in a big pan.

NATURAL FERTILIZER - like fish emulsion (anybody have a recipe? nevermind here it is http://www.ypsidixit.com/blog/archives/2006/05/diy_fish_emulsi.html), and bat guano -- know any friendly spelunkers?.

NATURAL PEST CONTROL - like neem oil or insecticidal soap spray, but some say just let the insects be, in order to attract whatever likes to eat them, just grow more of everything, a very interesting idea that encourages the natural ecosystem to right itself.

GOOD SOIL/COMPOST - Only if you didnt start composting early enough.

GARDEN TOOLS - if you don't have any already try to find some second hand (or just steal out of your neighbors yard . . . JUST KIDDING!) check out this home made hand trowel http://www.instructables.com/id/EGC7RCOF03GBB8C/?ALLSTEPS

  • There is certainly a gray area to alley raiding and dumpster diving, I have never had a problem with assuming that if its in the alley next to trash it's up for grabs, but if you have any doubts you can ask before taking if that sets your mind at ease.

Step 2: COMPOST

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The first thing to do after initiating full scavenger-ama mode -- would be to make compost, there are numerous websites out there on the subject, so I will just show you mine which I made by screwing three loading pallets together. The great thing about this is that its also a handy garden tool holder. A drum type hot-composter may work faster, but you would need to find an old 55 gallon drum (I never did). Or use this instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/ET9XQIGF52SQ4R9/?ALLSTEPS
You could add your worms to this or have an additional vermicompost bin indoors for smaller scraps http://www.instructables.com/id/EHII4ZKZN5EPH67CKF/?ALLSTEPS

Ask all you neighbors to add to your bin if they don't already compost, or go to the dumpsters of restaurants and small grocery stores looking for not so fresh produce (you will even find some still fresh produce to eat while you wait for your own), mix all this with some yard waste that you will inevitably produce when clearing your garden area.

You may want to urinate on your compost if you want to speed up the decomposition of dry brown materials as it contains a lot of nitrogen. Now don't be squeamish, urine is sterile, and doesn't seem to smell on the compost. You could also compost your feces for allegedly the best fertilizer possible, but do that in a composting toilet! never ever in this kind of compost pile. The best thing about reusing urine and fecal material is that you are saving a lot of clean flush water, not adding to the pollution of rivers and streams, and closing the loop between consumption and refuse.

Step 3: GARDEN PLAN

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Make a list of all your favorite foods to grow and eat, flowers, herbs, etc. Find out if any are not suitable for your area, or if you would need a greenhouse. Get a sense for how much sun and and water they need, and what other plants make good companions, allies and which plants should stay away from each other. Talk to other gardeners, ask what kinds of pest problems they have had, what grows really well in the area you are in (can they give you some seeds?).

Now make some drawings of how you want to plant things, keep in mind the height and width of plants, do some plants need something to climb on? What kind of soil do they need? how much light does your site get? plan accordingly.

I used a variation of the keyhole bed system to maximize growing area. Also since my garden is ring shaped I can just stand in one place and water (or use circular a sprinkler) If you plant in long rows you won't be able to see what is going on all at once, and you will have to take a walk to water. In case you cant tell I am very pleased with my garden design, but of course smaller yards will need to be more creative in the use of space.

Here are some useful sites for figuring out companion planting:
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_companion_plants#avoid

Step 4: START STARTING SEEDS

If its too cold outside still, and/or you have a shorter growing season you may want to start seedlings indoors. I started many of my plants in seedling flats I made with those plastic thingys that hold tomatoes from the grocery store. See pics below for instructions.

Or make origami cups for the kind of pot you could bury right into the ground: http://www.instructables.com/id/EAFQEE37VOEWIFNMA9/?ALLSTEPS
(again see pics below for my details).

You will need to make a waterer so that you don't flood the seed cells, some people use a spray bottle but I was starting to get RSI. See the one I made from a big juice bottle in the pictures below.

BONUS INDOOR PROJECT
Seed Tapes: It was still cold and I was still impatient to start gardening even after I began all my indoor seed starts, so I made seed tapes for the seeds that must be direct seeded.

To make a water soluble glue.
Use 1 tsp of cornstarch to 1 cup of water.
Stir over heat until thick
Cool.
Use a small paint brush to dab seeds in the appropriate spacing onto strips of toilet paper (use a bandsaw) or tissue paper.
These tapes are very easy to plant and the seeds come out consistently spaced, think about the shapes and letters you could plant!

Step 5: SHEET MULCH

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Now we are going to begin making the beds, this methods requires no weeding, digging, or tilling, instead relies on lots of composting in place. You are also adding to the soil from the top instead of taking away nutrients every season you dig and till the soil, plus you are saving lots of yard waste from ending up in a landfill.

When I first read about sheet mulching I was a bit skeptical, but I can personally attest that within a week there were worms where the soil used to be had pale alkaline clay, and the worms will mix the sheet mulch with what is underneath.

On a nice day soon after you have collected your cardboard, your many many bags of yard waste and a good amount of "raw compost" (uncomposted compost). Start laying out your beds, garden hose is a good way to delineate the shapes of your beds, or use rocks, sticks, chalk lines, etc.

LAYER 1:
hack down any weeds and leave them there, use a garden fork to make some holes in the ground but dont dig it up (that disrupts the soils structure)
LAYER 2:
water well and toss down a bunch of the raw compost, don't worry that it is un-rotted, it will be by the time any roots get to it, this makes a great place for worms and beneficial microbes to thrive
LAYER 3:
now cardboard, make sure the edges overlap at least 4 inches, or one inch stacks of news paper. This block weeds from coming up. Water the cardboard till its soggy
LAYER 4:
cover with green grass clippings, not to many like a good half inch.
LAYER 5: 9" to 12" of bulk organic material, like leaves, pine needles (no too many of these as they are pretty acidic) seedless straw, spoiled hay, clippings. The best is to layer all kinds of things. Toss in a few handfuls of finished compost if you can get some, this will ensure that there are beneficial microbes in there to begin the composting in place process. Water very thoroughly.
LAYER 6:
2 inches of garden soil mixed with some finished compost. This is so you have something to plant seeds/seedlings in.
LAYER 7:
Mulch: Nut shells, woodchips.
this traps the moisture in the whole business.

EDGING: rocks, bricks, broken concrete, wood, bottles, old tires cut in half for a scalloped edge. Tin cans driven into the ground a few inches. this will keep weeds out and your bed materials from spreading.

You can begin planting right away but it will be even better if you can do it a few months ahead of time.

Step 6: PLANTING

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When the seedlings are strong and not yet root-bound (and the moon is new if you are into all that) and all other factors such as frost dates fall into place, time to put those seedlings into the ground, water it all really well, just push aside the top mulch layer for direct seeding of seeds. Remember to not put things too close together. Planting can be a continual process, so repeat as needed and you will have a more continual harvest. Keep seeds you expect to sprout well watered especially if you have a brutal sun like I do. If something fails to come up just try again perhaps in a different spot, the soil PH could be off, the light could be wrong, or your seed bad. Then don't forget to thin out the smallest plants, leaving only the healthiest to flourish.

Step 7: IRRIGATION

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The best would be to have a greywater system, even if as simple as removing the trap from your kitchen sink and keeping buckets around to switch out. I have these depressions in the garden dirt encirlcled with rings cut from tires and lined with wood shavings that are perfect for dumping graywater. I also pour graywater on the compost pile, or use them to flush the toilet. Ideally this would be plumbed and there would be a graywater pond (see Dam Nation in my book recommendations), but as I am not going to be living here next year I opted for the muscle building "hands on" approach of carrying the buckets.

If you have gutters consider turning an old 55 gallon drum into a rain barrel. http://www.instructables.com/id/ERK270KF5FEQ11V/?ALLSTEPS

Instead of buying a soaker hose or expensive irrigation system you could take any old hose you you rescued from the dumpster (hose repair: http://www.instructables.com/id/ECW8AWTF3JESX4J/?ALLSTEPS), snake it through the garden and poke little holes wherever you want water to come out. Experiment with different size holes depending on how much water a plant will need, it's best to irrigate slowly with water dripping out as opposed to squirting rapidly, you could also use GPH drippers in regular hose if you wanted to be fancy. Once it is in place and well tested you can nestle it down into the mulch for aesthetics.

I have one of my hoses buried in my tomato bed which is not far from my bathroom window, when I can afford it (or figure out for free) I want to get a pump so that I can pump my bathwater directly to it. Even better when I take a bath with epsom salts as the plants love them!

Step 8: WEED, WATER, WAIT

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All previous steps will probably become a continuous process while your plants grow big and strong, you will no doubt learn what your plants like and adjust accordingly.

PESTS: Frequently check for pests (especially undersides of leaves) Hand pick pests or spray off with water, if pests become a real nuisance you may have to BUY neem oil, insecticidal soap, or some other organic control. Some say just let the insects be, in order to attract whatever likes to eat them, just grow more of everything, a very interesting idea that encourages the natural ecosystem to right itself.

FERTILIZE:
Urine (diluted 3-6 parts water to 1 part urine) or use worm compost tea, bat guano tea if you can find a bat cave, or use this fish emulsion recipe : http://www.ypsidixit.com/blog/archives/2006/05/diy_fish_emulsi.htmlgm

WEEDS:
Pull out weeds when they are small. For edging beds use boiling water (instead of "Roundup") if weeds are well away from "good" plants. Pull the rest out by hand. For large weedy areas smother with lumber or plastic.

Step 9: HARVEST

As you start eating what your garden produces you will feel so good that you turned trash into food! Spread the word and show your friends and neighbors how you did it. Don't forget to save the seeds from the best veggies.

For more pics of my garden http://www.flickr.com/photos/gowithflo/sets/72157601005411730/

In the future I want to add:
a greywater pond, making a solar cooker, and a dehydrator, covering the round garden to turn it into a green house, starting my fall crops . . . and next year a duck tractor, and maybe even get a couple of goats. So stay tuned, and keep the constructive advice coming. Let me know if you would like to be added as a collaborator, and many thanks to the others whose instructables I used.
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Jeanette562 years ago
I really like the idea of a round bed. I've got the room and I hope to try it out. Thanks for suggesting it!
what soil mix did you start the seeds in? that seems expensive. I would really love to know how to get that for free.
pandaaze2 years ago
Calling all freegans or those considering it! Can you please complete either a multiple choice survey takes less than 7 minutes http://www.surveymethods.com/EndUser.aspx?87A3CFD684C2D0D08C OR an under 5 minute short answer questionnaire http://www.stellarsurvey.com/s.aspx?u=B0C2352F-90C5-4B66-BA78-9B716EB2676B& The purpose of this survey is to educate Florida Atlantic University's graduate class Food: Environments and Culture class about freeganism. Your answers will remain anonymous and confidential. The results will be compiled into large statistically representations, unless otherwise noted by you in with written consent at the designated final box stating that you want to be used as a specific example. At the end of the survey there is also an optional elective to request a follow up interview which should last between 30 minutes to an hour depending on your availability. Feel free to skip any questions you feel uncomfortable answering, you can always save and continue later, and you can submit without finishing if need be. Thank you in advance for your participation in my project. I really appreciate it!
antoniraj2 years ago
very nice...
lisascout3 years ago
You worked really hard on this, thank you so much for all of the documentation. There are always more ideas! But I like your progression, and your ideas for reuse of existing materials get the creative juices going. My mother came from a generation where using discarded things was a necessity - and then along came all of the excess of the next generation, where it was considered taboo. I'm so happy that people are returning to recycle, reduce, reuse, repurpose.
tinker2344 years ago
hey i live in central florida could i do this at my home or should i do hydro ponics also i saw a mrobot project that can water plants would it still be organic if i used machines to help wondering
kalli5 years ago
Go to your local coffee house with a bucket (or they may have one to give you) and ask them to save their coffee grounds & filters. - Make nice addition to compost and garden! FREE!
finton kalli4 years ago
Totally. I keep the grounds from the coffee machine at work and my compost has never been wormier. The first compost barrel I tried it on became absolutely full of worms who had converted EVERYTHING into beautiful loam. I can't recall what else I'd put in there, but all my other bins are going better than ever so I mainly attribute it to the coffee. Google coffee and fertiliser: there are some good sites showing that coffee is a nutritious compost additive.
As a kid I can remember my dad had a worm farm, a planter in the yard and he put coffee grounds on it. That's all!
GroundUp4 years ago
Maybe it's a stupid question but would those fertilizers work on an hydroponics system?
Tomatoes can be dehydrated or canned. Garlic can be dehydrated as well as onions. Herbs certainly can be saved for later use. but trading produce at farmers markets can give you other consumables or other things to preserve for the larder. Once you start getting ahead remember to rotate your inventory. A recent study showed the cost of beef if we were to include fossil fuels would be nearer to fourty dollars a pound. I mean it's just not going to be practical to have everyone eating beef and pork in the future. I have gone towards more fruits and vegitables as well as nuts for my protien and found the amout i spent to be less for fruit and nuts then say for beef and feel better as well. Not every climate allows every crop to grow but seeds are available from climates like yours from across the globe look into what can grow in Australia they now grow kiwi's who would thunk they do good now exported off season to other markets
frogmama5 years ago
I like your use of the bedspring as a trellis!  I bet it's sturdy enough for cucumbers or something.  Last year, when I was picking pea and pickle vine tendrils off my fixed fence, I was thinking how smart it would be to let the vines dry out all winter and detach the trellis and smoulder it in a brush fire pile.  easy way to clean it off :) (hopefully that wouldn't break the welds)

I was concerned about your kitchen sink trap suggestion - though its a great suggestion, I hope you coverered the empty end of the trap so sewer gasses don't come up (that's part of the purpose of a trap in the first place)

Good luck on your sustainable living - I admire your dedication to it!!
YotaTruck5 years ago
The correct link is www.seedswaps.com, not seedswapper.com.
PapaSoma5 years ago
Careful with the tires. They're leaching cadmium into the soil.

Never place your beds downslope of a road, as the cadmium runs with the water and deposits in the soil.
rerat7 years ago
just be sure to wipe the mold off of it before you serve it next to your tofurky. It's called technology people, embrace it.
dchall8 rerat7 years ago
Maybe you are confusing vegetarianism with organic. There is organic beef, chicken, pork, etc. And there's no way to wipe all the mold off of food. It's on the cloth you wipe with. You're breathing it in. You're exhaling it. It's everywhere. It's called microbiology. You can't see it but it's there. Consider this: there are more microbe cells inside your body than human cells.
gowithflo (author)  dchall87 years ago
Actually I would like to incorporate a duck tractor eventually, I just wasn't up to the task of animal husbandry yet. http://www.energyfarms.net/taxonomy/term/151

What mold are you guys talking about? Rerat are you suggesting that composting is dangerous?
I've heard of the chicken tractor, but not a duck tractor. Ducks will fly away while chickens will hang around after you let them out of the tractor. Some tractor designs keep the birds inside all the time and others allow the birds out during the day and protect them from predators at night. Birds will do an incredible amount of good for your soil. Just be aware they will defoliate everything as they eat all the grass, plants, and bugs, so your soil will look like the surface of the moon when you move them away.

Another way to get started with birds is to install bird houses, feeders, and bird baths. Just getting the wild ones to your place to pick caterpillars and beetles can be very beneficial. You will have to watch your crops, though.

Regarding molds: If you had asked a microbiologist in the 1980s how many microbes lived in the soil, they might have told you there were about 50 but only a dozen would grow on a petri dish in a lab. Since the 1990s, with DNA testing available at relatively low costs, they have discovered DNA from over 100,000 species. A lot of them are molds. Don't ask me to name them, because they have not been named. This added microbial complexity has driven the scientists to stop calling it a food chain. Now they call it a food web. Specifically for soil they call it the soil foodweb. If you are interested learning more about soil biology, the best thing I've found is this. It's about 50 pages long with all the pictures, so settle down and turn off the phone if you want to concentrate on it. I have reread it several times and learn more each time. When all the microbes live together in relative harmony, the condition is called 'normal.' When things get out of whack, some of the good microbes will be overpowered by the disease causing microbes and you will get fungal or bacterial diseases on your plants. Usually all it takes is restoring the health of the entire population of microbes to reset things to normal again. This is how Mother Natures has evolved the system over the past 4 billion years.

Composting is not generally dangerous. It can become more hazardous if you don't know what you're doing. If you stick to composting garden scraps and non-meat table scraps, you'll be fine. If you want to start composting meats and animal dung, give yourself at least 3 good years of successful, productive composting before you try the advanced stuff.
gowithflo (author)  dchall87 years ago
I've heard about a variety of animal tractors, chicken, pig, rabbit, goat, sheep, etc. Sorry I cant give an exact source but it was probably Bill Mollison. Thanks for the microbiology tutorial, microbes rule.
If you haven't gotten or made your "bird" tractor yet and are now among those of us who rent, here is a great instructable if you still looking. http://www.instructables.com/id/Chicken-Barrow/
I don't think composting animal dung is that "advanced." If you have any local animal farms or horse stables this would be an easy to way to make lots of great compost while recycling waste and keeping it from contaminating the local ecosystem. I work at an organic CSA that gets weekly shipments of animal waste (hay, dung, scraps & whatever else is in their pens) from the local zoo. They include everything from all their exotic animals. We even found an unhatched emu egg once. All we do is have a few piles and turn them every few weeks. In about three months (checked when the compost thermometer stops heating up to ~130), viola, rich compost yumminess.
Is it safe to assume the egg was a dud?  I know those things aren't cheap.  My aunt raised them when I was a kid.
Thanks for the link to the USDA website! Check out Elaine Ingham's commercial website: www.soilfoodweb.com for a bio test on your soil, and endorsements for compost makers
KingLabs5 years ago
I've heard of using tobacco for pest control.  I suppose planting tobacco nearby would help too.  I tried making a tobacco tea from some cheap (bugle boy) pouch tobacco and it seemed to work ok.
 Also, you can make newspaper seed pots which can be culled from people's recycle pile.  You can start the seeds in them and then put them right in the ground when you plant, they break down as the season goes on.
kingbi35 years ago
love it will try it. love your peace i cant grow but will try with the kids
thepelton5 years ago
One free source of wood scraps such as what Squee was talking about is pallets.  I have found them behind businesses such as liquor stores and supermarkets, and the broken ones they normally give away.  Just ask to be sure.
thepelton5 years ago
One other thing.  Walnut sawdust is slightly toxic, so it should not be plowed into a garden.  A number of other sawdust varieties, especially domestic ones, can be plowed into dirt and broken down with woodloving mushrooms, such as Pleurotis Pulmonatis.
thepelton5 years ago
Ludionis has a good idea there, but I heard of a similar growing situation that used old auto tires filled with dirt for growing potatoes.  The man was paraplegic, in a wheelchair, and couldn't dig a normal garden, so he filled stacks of tires with dirt, planted potatoes and other root crops, and knocked over the tires when he needed to get the potatoes or carrots or whatever.
ludionis5 years ago
I thought that disease could be spread through fecal composting because while urine is indeed sterile in the absence of an infection, feces is not.  Have heard that countries that fertilize with human feces (see http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasites/ascaris/factsht_ascaris.htm for an example)
ludionis5 years ago
I heard of a guy once that got a 5 gallon bucket, filled it with dirt, and placed a few sprouting potatoes in it.  When the plant developed and he wanted potatoes, he just dug some out.  Un-eaten ones would re-sprout and keep the plant going, would add compost/fertilizer occasionally to keep soil rich.
SinAmos5 years ago
Remind me of what I have going on except for the greywater.
manlyfish5 years ago
legally you can't say organic unless your certifed and they look for everything for example treated wood cannot be touching anything it has to be elavated and other things you might not expect and if you want organic you dont want pesticides loads of organic sprays are just as bad if not worse for you then some non organic pretty nasty stuff but there are lots of other options NATURAL PREDATORS may sound weird but you should research your bugs there are plenty that like to eat potato bugs, and aphids and, cucumber beetles like excample lady bug larvae, assassin bug, and dragon flies, wasps too
good work gowihflo
rgmarti5 years ago
Smart gardener, earth friendly and Cute. What catch U will make...
kehames5 years ago
Umm...You do know that grocery stores have to pay for those bread trays, right?  They aren't just throwing them away?  The bread companies pick them up and pay the grocery stores back for them.  It's like a deposit system.
Squee kehames5 years ago
Yeah, I'm with you on everything except the bread trays. Those trays are left out back for the bread company to pick up when they deliver the next shipment of bread. When you take them the bread company can dock the grocery store a deposit fee. Otherwise you're still stealing them from the bread company.

There are plenty of other things that you can use to support your seed trays, including cardboard boxes, a box made from chicken wire, wood or other scrap/salvaged materials.
A good name6 years ago
I think you're supposed to put a cover on it... actually mine's covered on all sides.
It works best when it's worm inside, so you may want to put a black thick bin bags around the sides and cover from the same material on top. Some building sites may have leftovers of DPM lining lying around which they can't use because of the small size
johnny3h katz5 years ago
Hi Katz and all,
Composting is accomplished by:
AEROBIC BACTERIA [they breathe AIR] that "munch" the materials to be composted,
and "their byproducts [equivalent of urine and feces] ARE the resulting compost,
AND the purpose of wire or slatted pallets for containment ,
AND regular "TURNING"  of the pile ALL of which are NECESSARY for the bacteria to survive and do their work.

Therefore, it is strongly recommended that compost piles NOT be enclosed in any material that restricts maximum air flow!!!!!

The "warmth" needed is provided by the metabolic heat generated by the bacteria themselves.  All a composter must do is reduce the loss of THAT heat by having the compost pile as large and compact as possible.
guy905 years ago
Liking the setup there, thanks for sharing this!
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