Introduction: Growing Gold From Glass
Gold can be grown in a microwave oven, seemingly from nothing at all. The truth is that the quarks which make up gold are always there, present in magnetic current. They merely need to be caught all at the same time and place. The situation is called 'zero point', since all atoms function on a zero point energy principle. The gold formations you see here are infact one proof of this, in how they form. What you see are tiny transformers. The concentric rings (2) around a single ball, is what allows a charge to implode through 2 nonlinear capacitors, so that it may form 2 waves set in sync yet out of phase. After nonlinear focus through the center ball (now don't forget, zero point is proven in the Kesche device, the Joe cell and many others) waves must combine to form a higher frequency. Very simple.
Each brown root beer bottle with other added ingredients, can produce about $200 worth of gold. I'll explain how you can make an oven capable of firing all of that at once or more.
So when you grow wire gold, you don't want it to solidify in this wire form. You'll actually head up the sample to 2700F for 10-15minutes at the end of the 90 minute run (complete time) so the gold runs to the bottom.
The ingredients list is placed carefully in a standard microwave oven with atleast 10 true variable power settings, though it's best not to waste your time using a standard oven. You wont make much gold this way.
The crucible should be high fire porcelain ONLY. Others might work for a while, but you can't risk an explosion from temperature change, and high temperature work.
The crucible must be able to accomidate flat disc pours of magnetite 4.82082" wide (flat in single or layers like 3 to form a tripole which makes more plasma) or that tall using a sleeve of magnetite to pick up on the microwaves beamed into the chamber.
Step 1: Gather Supplies
Here's what you'll need;
3 microwave ovens with variable power settings, 1kw each.
Sheetmetal (specific to your oven size, so I wont list sizes here) 20g minimum normal weld steel, 16g to 14g preferred.
A spot welder or mig wire welder
Mig weld wire
Long crucible tongs (make your own, best, cheapest method, using a vice, hammer, drill, maf gas from Home Depot so you can smash spots flat on an anvil part of your vice where you'll drill through to make a rotation point)
Heat mask (optional) just keep your distance using long tongs if opening the hot oven.
Large box fan to ventilate the area. Breathing fumes released from magnetite could be harmful to your health due to mercury content. A custom microwave oven like I built has no vent, so most of this issue to eliminated.
Digital gram scale
Microwave leak detector
Breathing mask (strap on type, carbon filter or something like it)
Eye protection, approved with some side protection
2 steel hinges, 1" x 2" or so for the oven door
A few vice grips
A powerful small fan 120vac with atleast 3 speed settings 10" wide 6" thick for example.
Welder's helmet and gloves (Harbor Freight has good deals)
A sheetmetal bender with 36" width capacity or more.
A laser heat detector capable of atleast 2250F degrees (thermal guns found on Amazon for example are cheap, got mine for about 40 bucks on Prime.)
Duraboard 3000 and 2600 or just all 3000 if you're not sparing any expense.
A metal table to place the oven upon; I use my metal bender as a table here. You can't have any nearby flammables.
A fire extinguisher, medium to large size
A pulverizer of some kind to make crushed glass powder.
A sand or cast iron mold (slag button mold) to pour your molten junk into after gold is grown, so the heavier gold settles to the bottom in a button shape. If using sand, it must be dried for 8 hours in the home baking oven on a tray you don't mind losing. I haven't tried this; but a cast iron sand mix dried out might work best here.
A microscope to assay your gold production. Ie; you'll want to see wire gold solid form before you pour gold, just to get an idea how well your oven is making the wire gold. 200 power is fine, but I purchased a 2000 power off Amazon so I can see platinum , iridium, and rhodium crystal formation in the magnetite; a nice after effect of growing gold in the glass powder.
Finally you'll need magnetite (not large grain black sand) , and it's known also as ferrite. I haven't tried colored versions , just black, but they can all be found at most pottery stores like Georgies in Portland , Oregon.
Silica flour (fine)
Graphite powder (lock lubricant) (optional)
Fly ash made from coal only, never soda ash type or otherwise. (The fly ash contains nanospheres of 5 to 300 micron diameter centrally polarized iron and silica oxides which are critical to better production) You can make your own using a BBQ and charcoal of any brand.
Step 2: Build the Oven;
Get a sheet metal bender built, bought or borrowed if you can. This will save you a lot of time and money having metal bent elsewhere.
You'll begin by making a box which is completely sealed. Sheet metal shops will usually plasma cut what you need, like a square hole through the 2 panels that become your door seal. You cannot just piece the seal together here.
I used a fillet knife to cut my duraboard. You must wear a breathing mask and eye protection here! The glass like insulation will give you glass lung otherwise, You can't breath that stuff.
Your oven , if spot welded, must be planned well for, so you know you can assemble the entire box in steps and still be able to reach that last weld using a spot welder. See other tutorials on how to make your own spot welder.
The oven dimensions need to be adequate to handle crucibles of various sizes, so your chamber inside should be 7" high and 15" wide and deep to accomidate plenty of crucibles. These dimensions are also idea if you wish to experiment with orbital plasma which jumps from one crucible to the next around a larger crucible or just one filled with more magnetite. 6 or 8 around 1, all spaced at 4.82082" ; but only for vertically tuned magnetite sleeves which allow charge to implode from the sleeve into the mixture instead off off a disc(s) of magnetite 4.82" wide.
Your options for mounting the klystrons vary. I'm aiming direct from the top in a triangular formation so I'll hit 3 of 6 crucibles around a 7th one, all spaced 4.82082". Conventionally , the klystrons would aim at a metal reflector before waves enter the oven by bouncing off the reflector in order to expand. This is something you may wish to experiment with to achieve maximum plasma effect.
Step 3: Prepare Crucibles and Fire!
Flat crucible option:
The single disc method is proven using a 4.82" wide disc. One experiment showed how making 3 layers of this with quartz flour in between will product a tripole field in the crucible ; inducive to making more plasma which is the big key to growing gold , as plasma drags over the microscopic balls of nearly molten glass (brown glass is best because it liquefies at lower temperature due to the copper and nickel content...that's 2025 degrees F).
So you coat the base and walls with 3mm quartz flour. Get a disc of pure magnetite in there 1/4" thick, then 1mm quartz flour on top, 1mm ferrite, 1mm quartz flour, 1mm ferrite, 2 to 3 mm of charcoal based fly ash, 50-80grams of crushed brown glass mixed with 5% fly ash and a gram of charcoal and (optional) another gram of graphite powder.
Vertically tuned crucibles
My current work is using crucibles vertically tuned; so the magnetite is a sleeve 4.82" tall and around 3mm thick wall without a base. If you pour this, you'll want a plastic sleeve (2) made from a vinyl folder or bottle, which you pull out after you fill the center with brown glass powder 95%, 5%fly ash, then add in 1 gram of powdered charcoal and maybe 1 gram of graphite which helps in making heat and plasma. A coating of another 3 grams or more of graphite on the top.
The middle layer is pure magnetite (ferrite, fine black sand in powder form)
All crucibles need a thin sleeve of quartz flour to insulate the magnetite from the crucible, so heat doesn't crack the crucible. The vertically tuned ones I'm using are made from coffee cups.
In either case, always keep your crucibles 1/4" minimum from the duraboard
Finally, you will need to pop the door open after powering down each 15 minutes until you find a schedule that works based on whatever measurement recipe you find best. The mixtures I post later can vary. The magnetite volume may increase to make more plasma, but more or less will make less or more heat which you need to bring the glass to liquid state (almost) . Don't go past 2025 for a while, since keeping it there for 15-20 minutes is how gold is made; as plasma can move freely around the glass spheres which are almost liquid as well. The liquid state is when the quartz catches plasma leaving magnetite which is giving off those quarks that make gold upon colliding with the quartz. The graphite will make heat very fast. The carbon will help make plasma, but it burns up after a while a bit sooner than graphite; so a combination of the two gives a controlled 'burn' / time release, for extended plasma release. Using 3 layers of magnetite in either setup is ideal, and proved to make more gold in the flat crucible setup. I haven't had time to try this in the vertically tuned method, but it would require sleeves of varying sizes.
It should take about 45 minutes to reach temperature if your ferrite and carbon are adequate. Another 20 to make gold. That's the 65 minute mark. Now you power higher to bring temperature up to 2700F. Keep it there for atleast 5 minutes, so your total run time will be about 90 minutes.
Step 4: POUR!!
When removing the crucibles, be careful to not drop them! Safety equipment like 1000F gloves or better is a given requirement, since you'll need that material 2300F minimum to pour.
If you use multiple crucibles, you may need to keep the oven running on others while your pour one at a time into a bottom slag mold with the tongs you made or bought to handle whatever crucibles you have safely.
Remember; you can't use graphite or alumina crucibles ; they will self destruct in the microwave. Use only high fire (not bone low fire) porcelain.
If you aren't making gold, if you don't see a gold button, it means your mix was not right to make plasma, or that you did not keep the temperature at 2025F long enough. If you go over to molten the glass before staying at 2025, you've just sabotaged your sample because that plasma needs a place to move. The plasma moving to center around the gold beads individually and as a sum (!!!) is the zero point process ; imploding in a hard 'crash' of zero point. The principle is similar in some ways to sonoluminescence, in how energy of LF transforms into HF.
If you have a kiln or smelting oven capable of 2300F or more, this will help you process gold later. It's easier to sell consistently sized and shaped gold coins you stamp at 1500F using a cnc machined press stamp for example. There are many options here.
Finally ; save your magnetite. It will contain platinum, iridium, and rhodium crystals which you can't separate without a smelting oven at atleast 3400F (very very hot). You wont extract that 'till you'v done about 100 pours or so. Each metal melts at a specific temperature. Platinum melts at 3215F. Rhodium melts at 3565F. Iridum at 4436F.
If you wish to make pours of each, you'll need a smelter capable of 4500F.
You don't need a smelter right away. You can sell dirty gold, and yes, this gold is the same as any gold.
7 crucibles should have no problem giving you atleast $30 worth of gold each, for $210 if running 7 slim vertical crucibles spaced properly.
If each run takes you 90 minutes with 30 to pour, and let the oven cool for calibration reasons mostly, that's $210 usd each hour, $2100 in 10 hours. All you're paying for is 3kw of power (30 cents and hour) plus ferrite, glass, charcoal, graphite (optional) each time you run. Ferrite is the greatest expense. Adding copper and nickel oxide to your glass will get the temperature up faster , but know that too fast will crack your crucible.
30 days of production from 1 oven at 24 hours a day, equates to over $150,000.