Let me add at this point I know this not the best way to solder and this method has its limitations. It is however the best way to fix surveillance equipment at 3 a.m., in the back of a van, in the dark. I can testify to that. Good times. I was a tech for an undercover narcotics unit for five years and this method came through for me many times.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Building the Dispenser
1 ink pen (metal tiped is the best)
2 feet of thin solder
First take the pen apart and cut it down so it fits in the tin. Next wrap the solder around the ink cartridge that you just removed from the pen. Pull the solder off the pen and insert it into the portion of the pen that you have retained. Cap off the end with the pen cap or whatever you have. I got a ton of these little platic caps (shown in the picture) someplace that are my favorite. I like the metal tips the best because they don't melt if you use this with a regular iron. The result is a compact solder dispenser! I'm always amazed just how much solder you can fit in one of these suckers.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |











































1. I didn't use a butane lighter; instead, I used a mini, normal lighter. The normal lighter didn't really effect the soldering process, it was just difficult sometimes not to burn the insulation right off the wire, or overheat something. It sure helped heat the hot glue though.
2. I used a mini nail clipper (wire cutter).
3. Using a mini lighter and nail clipper gave a lot of extra room, so I included a hot glue stick which can be heated with the lighter, then smeared onto the area where it's needed. It can also be used as wire connection insulation.
4. More room was still available, so I add a small spool of various wire.
5. I modified the (awesome) helping hands so it was basically a thick solid wire (not stranded) with aligator clips on both ends so I could clip one to the tin, and the other would be free for holding. I could probably even secure the middle of the wire down to the tin with a magnet or hot glue so both helping hands are free.--(Maybe I can put a magnet in the tin so stuff won't clink around...hmm...)
I still have a lot of room in my tin so any more suggestions on what I can stuff in mine is welcomed.
Other than that, this is absolutely brilliant. I'm making a pen holder for use all the time.
Good idea.
I see people mentioning sandpaper and emery boards. Personally I perfer the sandpaper. You can just wrap it around the bare wire and pull in an easy step. The emery board would be more cumbersome on a wire to wire connection.
I have a similar kit, but I have the little leatherman wire stripper from Radio Shack instead of the nail clippers. It works great for tiny tasks and cramped spaces. I have used nail clippers in a pinch, but only if I have to.
Thanks for the instructable.
1) Solder "Wick" isn't worth your money, a solder sucker IS!
2) Don't use a 60W soldering iron, get a 90W and you'll thank me.
3) Remember to use flux, if you don't already have flux core solder.
(If it smokes when you solder, it contains flux, if it doesn't really smoke to much or at all, then it's flux-less.)
And remember to put your shrink tubing on BEFORE you solder.... sounds funny to say, but you'll be surprised how many times you forget.....lol, memories!
Tl;dr 2 identical, same length wires, solder them in a V shape(or more of a Y shape) and solder alligator clips onto all 3 ends, and clip base clip to altoid tin/something close to where you're working.
Also, either clip base clip onto a flat magnet(which would've been equipped with something to be clipped on) and magnet to altoid tin or any metal surface(for table soldering) or onto a metal surface if you're working on a job somewhat vertical, like a wall mounted fuse box or something. Magnet inside tin would keep metal contents from rattling.