So my basic goal was to pull out the old amp/speaker and replace it with something that sounded nicer and didn’t ruin the look of the Turser cabinet. This unit was only going to be used as a practice amp, so I did not need something expensive or involved (e.g. TUBES). I needed a solid state amp, with about the same number of knobs due to the size of the control panel. The biggest problem would be if the circuit board was too big, so that became one of my check-off items that had to be met. Originally, I thought I had use the original control face plate, but this was just something I had to get a little creative with.
I happened across a used Peavey Envoy 110 (40 watts, 10” speaker) at a local Guitar Center ($50). This one had the sound I was after and seemed more robust overall. It had a nice 10” Peavey speaker (the Turser had a cheap/generic Celestion “Red” label, Tube 10), two channels and reverb. It actually had a few more features that I didn’t worry about making functional on the new configuration.
Skills and Tools:
• Drill – various bits (I used a drill press for the control panel, but you don’t have to)
• Metal cutting – rotary cutting tool
• Heat gun
• Stamping materials – ink, stamping kit
• Painters tape
• Metal cleaning chemicals – naptha, polishing compound
• Misc wire, shielded cable
• Gloves are always good idea when working with metal
• Ventilation for soldering operations
So let’s get started…
Step 1: Part 1: Receipient Cabinet - Rough Fitting
The Peavey speaker was a direct replacement (it had a minor tear in the surround that had to be fixed first – there’s plenty of sites that describe that easy fix, so I won’t go into that here). The reverb tank just goes in the bottom.
Step 2: Part 2: Modifying Old Chassis and Moving the Controls
When I started this project it became pretty obvious that I would need to reposition the knobs/jacks/etc. That part was just a couple of nights of de/re-soldering. One of the things that really struck me was how nice the Peavey controls are secured on the circuit board compared to the Turser.
The Turser had two inputs, 9 pots and a couple of small buttons. The Peavey had one input, 10 pots and four large buttons. So I had to make some choices as to what would physically fit in the same space as the Turser face plate. We’ll walk through how that part was handled when we get to the faceplate part of this project.
I added a couple of comparison pics between the Turser and the Peavey just for fun.
Step 3: Part 3: De-Soldering and Re-Soldering
Step 4: Part 4: Control Panel Faceplate
The original faceplate had 9 pot positions (the Peavey had 10 pots), I figured I’d use the 9 positions for the two channel controls and then put the reverb somewhere else.
The buttons (not the pots) were a problem because of the number of attachment points and how they were designed. I didn’t think I could have easily desoldered those and just move them. So the buttons were to stay on the circuit board and I would work around them.
The good part was that the only button I needed to keep functional was the channel selector. This button could be controlled with a foot pedal connected to a rear jack… which meant I could rig up a switch to put on the faceplate.
I used a brass sheet ($5) to match the original metal. This was 12” wide – just a little shorter than the original faceplate, but long enough to fill the exposed space on the control panel. The height was essentially the same as the original. So I didn’t have to cut the brass plate, just some drilling.
Step 5: Part 5: Faceplate Printing
Step 6: Part 6: Specialty Cables
Step 7: Part 7: Final Fitting and Assembly
This is where using the original chasis really paid off. I only had to do a little modification to the chasis and I still get to use all 6 mounting screws for the chassis without further modification or adding holes to the cabinet.