Guitar Tube Pre Amp

 by Lenny24
Featured

Hello Again!
I'm back with a new Instructable! Wheeyy!
In this 'able, I'll show you how to make a Low-Voltage (Around 60 Volts) Tube Pre Amplifier for your Guitar!

Youll need, lets say Basic Electronics Knowledge for this.

UPDATE 20.12.2010':
Ive uploaded some examples with different Pickups and Gain settings.
Youll' need a mediaplayer that is able to encode AAC Music Files. Apple Quick Time Player should do the Job.
 
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Step 1: Parts Youll need

P1010401.JPG

I've listed all parts youll need here.
One thing I have to say before I write further.
I cant' tell you the exact sizes of the holes etc you need to drill because it depends on which parts you use and what kind of housing you choose.

So, Youll need :
A Case.
1 12AX7 or ECC83 Tube
1 9 Pin Tube Socket + Screws
1 200V 470uF Electrolytic Capacitor
1 1M Ohm Logaritmic Pot
1 100k Ohm Logaritmic Pot
2 Switches, 1 DPDT and 1 SPDT
2 35 V 2.2uF Electrolytic Capacitors
2 6.3mm Jacks
1 400V 0.68uF Polyester Capacitor
1 100V 1uF Poly Capacitor
Lots of wire.

Resistors :
2 4.7k  Ohm 1/4 Watt or Higher
1 68k Ohm 1/8 Watt or Higher
2 100k Ohm 1/2 Watt or Higher
3 10k Ohm 1/4 Watt or Higher
1 1.5k Ohm 1/4 Watt or Higher
1 100k Ohm 1/4 Watt or Higher

Tools :
Soldering Iron
Solder
Wirecutters + Strippers
Needle Nose Pliers could be helpfull
Drill to drill holes in your Case
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essegi says: Jan 28, 2013. 2:28 AM
What about earthing the circuit? I mean the third wire (earth) of the plug, where have to be connected?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to essegiJan 28, 2013. 11:34 AM
Most important, I normally tie my metal casing parts to ground. In cases of tube power amps, I do tie my circuit ground to the 3rd Powercord Prong (PE), but if you are using a two grounded pieces of electrical equipment,  it is likely to cause hum because of two ground connections. In this case, you may want to consider tieing your Preamp-Ground to earth with a 10 Ohm resistor with two antiparallel diodes and a 0.1µ film capacitor.
essegi says: Jan 27, 2013. 1:57 AM
Hi, sorry I am a newbie about amps construction, I am asking how to connect the power transformer. From the circuit scheme I'm not able to find the points where to connect the 6.3V output and where to connect the (100-200V ?) output. And, the 100-200V output have to be reduced to 60V? And where must I connect this 60V output. Sorry, probably those are stupid answers but I need a perfectly detailed recipe :)
Lenny24 (author) in reply to essegiJan 27, 2013. 7:37 AM
Hey there,
At first, youll have to rectify your AC Voltage, coming from your transformer. Thats normally done with 4 rectifier Diodes ( eg. UF4007 or 1N4007) and then filtered with capacitors. With the rectified AC voltage, you are able to supply your circuit at the points, where that voltage is needed (if you take a look at the last step of this 'Table, youll find a supply-point named 'V+').
The low AC voltage for the filaments is wired directly to the filaments of your tubes (hint: the Datasheet of a tube could be a really great helper!).
If the Capacitors and Resistors in your circuit are able to withstand the higher Voltages, there shouldnt be a reason to reduce your perfectly good 200V to 60V.
Stay safe and have fun!
hazza the gun says: Sep 17, 2012. 10:47 AM
is there any way i can make this thing run on 12v? i cant get a 60v PSU and i have seen videos of matsumins valvecaster running a 12AX7 valve on 12v. I have reduced the resistor values down to 1/10th of what they were on the power supply to the cathodes, and i have removed all resistors totally on the supply to the heater because i have read that to get a valve to work in starved cathode mode then the heater must be as hot as possible without causing it damage. I am not very good with resistor vaues, so can u get back to me asap on this please.
hazza
hazza the gun in reply to hazza the gunDec 22, 2012. 10:32 AM
I am not sure how to do the emmiter follower stage, it just adds awful solid state distortion and lowers volume, causes "dead battery in fuzz face" style sag etc. I need some help
Lenny24 (author) in reply to hazza the gunDec 22, 2012. 12:26 PM
Hey there, Im glad it works out for you!
The emmitter-follower stage has to be DC-Coupled, meaning there should be no coupling-capacitors between the anode-connection of your last tube section and the base of your NPN-transistor. The collector is tied directly to V+ and the emmitter should be tied to ground with a 4.7k-22k resistor, depending on the type of your transistor.
otherwise, you could send me a schematic of your actual set up and I could try to fix it for you.
hazza the gun in reply to Lenny24Dec 22, 2012. 6:34 PM
ok thanks for that, could that have been the reason for the distortion? It sounded more like a plain old overdriven transistor to me. I re-did the emitter follower (it still had the coupling cap between the valve and the transistor at this point) with some base biasing and it just acted way to sensitively to any input from the valve and caused this ugly, buzzy sort of clipping, that kind you get if you turn up a stereo or radio too loud and things get nasty. Thx for suggestion I will try with the emitter follower again although It sounds alright as it is. It seems as though, however, that the valve isn't driving my output stage hard enough for it to reach its maximum clean output (about 5 watts). I have been trying to fix this with a variety of different methods, but will the emitter follower resolve this situation?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to hazza the gunDec 23, 2012. 2:49 AM
It could totally have been the reason for the Distortion, if the transistor stage's bias current was near 0 and the output voltage was driven of of near GND-Potential, one half of the sine wave is completely cut of! This type of clipping is very similar to what your are describing, its very fuzzy with cut sustain and so on.
If it isnt driving your power stage enough, you might try to put another amplifing transistor stage after the tubes, as they normaly put out only a relatively small potential at the output. That amplifing stage should have a gain no higher than 2 or 3.
hazza the gun in reply to Lenny24Dec 23, 2012. 4:34 AM
I can give you a schematic of my output stage, which is a slightly modified version of a very popular low power class a/b design.
here is the original: http://hackaweek.com/hacks/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/class-ab-amp-schematic.jpg
My modifications include: output npn to bc337, output pnp to bc327, driver npn to bc547, as well as a couple of small resistor changes. This was to accomodate for me not having exact resistor values and transistor types. The output stage itself is sensitive enough to amplify a guitar signal. Is this sensitive enough to amplify the high impedance signal from my 12ax7 preamp's output?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to hazza the gunNov 21, 2012. 9:55 AM
hey! Sorry for this late reply, I've been occupied lately.
Yeah, Sure you are able to get this running on 12V, at first, you may want to consider using a 12AU7 as the Tube as of its lower internal resistance. Further, the resistor values stay pretty much the same, but its best to use 2 Preamp Tubes for 3 Gainstages and 1 Cathode follower. On the other hand, you could use a single Tube and a NPN-Emitter follower for a low output impedance. Otherwise you may loose some of your tippy-top highs. I would use a 220k (a) and a 4.7k bypassed with 0.47µ (c) on the first stage an maybe a 100k (a) and a 3.3k on the second.
hazza the gun in reply to Lenny24Dec 21, 2012. 3:53 PM
hey ya thanks I managed to get a 12ax7 running on a 12v plate voltage and it is now inside, believe it or not, a hybrid battery amplifier using six of those humungous D cells as power supply and a pnp/npn push pull power stage. I will add an npn emitter-follower between the valve and the power stage, and an npn signal booster in front of it as it is the cleanest valve pre amp I have ever heard. The whole thing is inside a Chateauneuf Du Pape box lol.
fender-electric-guitar says: Nov 12, 2011. 12:43 PM
Very good job!! I have a question can you wire two of these together to make a two stage pre amp because if you could i can use the Hammond 262B12 transformer to wire the tube filliments together in series and that remaining 60v in series to use the 120 from the secondary
Lenny24 (author) in reply to fender-electric-guitarNov 12, 2011. 1:59 PM
Thanks!
Yeah, you could easily do that, just leave out the Gain pot, from that point the Volume Pot would be the Gain pot.
With two additional Gain stages you are able to get some Rock tunes and maybe some High-Gain distortion, depending on how exactly you combine the two stages.
The 262B12 is a pretty neat Transformer for this application, Just make sure you use Capacitors with a voltage rating thats high enough to take the 170 or more Volts DC. But that shouldnt be a problem.

Have Fun Building it!
plasmashears says: Oct 21, 2011. 3:39 PM
I am having trouble reading the values on your schematic, could you post a better image of it please? Really want to try this one out!
Lenny24 (author) in reply to plasmashearsOct 24, 2011. 11:19 AM
Well, here you go, check out the last step for the Schematics!
arussell-wilkes says: Jul 28, 2011. 10:19 PM
Hey there, I'm just starting to get into this kind of stuff and im a little bit confused on your power supply set-up. I'm mostly getting confused with how to make the transformer/ power supply. Would you know of what kind of power transformer I could buy so that I can bypass the making of one right now?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to arussell-wilkesJul 29, 2011. 11:30 PM
You could use a Preamp- Power Transformer. You should be able to get them at your local electronic shop.
It should have something around these Values:
Primary: 110 or 230V Input (Depending on where you live)
1. Secondary: 6.3Volts @ 1 Ampere
2. Secondary: 100 - 200 Volts @ 50 mA (Note: the DC-Voltage will be multiplyed by the Factor 1.41, If you have a Output of 100 Volts AC, youll have a DC Output of
141 Volts)

arussell-wilkes in reply to Lenny24Jul 30, 2011. 3:08 PM
Would I need to add anything different to the circuit like a choke or something? Also would I just connect the transformer to an IEC socket for power, and where in the circuit would be a good place for a fuse to be put in?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to arussell-wilkesJul 31, 2011. 1:21 AM
The first Fuse should be in series with the Primary of the Transformer, the second Fuse in series with the 100 - 200 Volt Secondary.
You should use Fuses with a Value twice the Amperage,which you drain through it. Otherwise, it will blow, even if theres no Failure.

Youll need a CLC or CRC filtering supply. I Prefer CRC, they are easier.
For a simple preamp, you should use a Bridge rectifier, after that a charging Capacitor (the first C), that one should be around 47µF and rated 1 and 1/2 Volts more than your Filtered DC Voltage.

Example:
You got a 100 Volt AC Secondary.
After the Rectifier you got very Unsmooth 141 Volts, the next Voltage-rating on Caps should be 200 Volts, so use one 47µF @ 200 Volt Type.

After your Charge-Cap, youll need a resistor and another Capacitor, to complete the CRC - supply.

The Resistor should be a 2 Watt type and should have a value around 10 - 22 Kilo Ohms.
After that, use another cap to finally smooth out any spikes, that are in the Supply voltage.
For that, you can use another 47µF @ 200 Volt type.


arussell-wilkes in reply to Lenny24Aug 2, 2011. 5:05 PM
Thanks for being so helpful with questions! But I do have a problem with finding a transformer. The local radio shack doesn't have what I need, and I've looked through a lot of different transformers online trying to find one with the right specifications. I don't know how far off the numbers can be from the specs you gave me. I've found some that are close, but Im not sure if they're usable-

http://www.bottlehead.com/store.php?crn=221&rn=439&action=show_detail

http://www.tubedepot.com/tr-pw-13.html

http://www.hammondmfg.com/261.htm

If you could look through these and let me know your thoughts on them, it would be much appreciated!
Lenny24 (author) in reply to arussell-wilkesAug 3, 2011. 3:52 AM
No problem, man!


The first one looks pretty Solid, the second one looks a bit Underpowered for me (It could get very warm in use).
And with Hammond-transformers, you can do nothing wrong.
You could use the Hammond 262B12, but then youll have to connect the Filaments of the 12AX7 in series instead of parallel, thats just one Wire less, so easy to do.
alexthemoose says: Jun 7, 2011. 11:01 PM
out of curiosity, how much did it cost you to do this build?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to alexthemooseJun 8, 2011. 6:50 AM
Pewh, Well, I had a lot Parts laying around, I think about 10 - 20 €.
chypsylon says: Mar 6, 2011. 6:35 AM
Thanks for the schematic, it really helped me with another project :)
With what values have you actually ended up using for the inductors?
Would one of those here work? 
Lenny24 (author) in reply to chypsylonMar 6, 2011. 9:12 AM
Hey!
Sorry, I have no Exact values of the Inductor. I winded it myself, I think 50 Turns of 25AWG Copper Wire... I would use a 330 µH Type, just to be Safe.

Which kind of Project is it? Normally, they should work.
carpe_noctem says: Dec 20, 2010. 11:58 AM
Great job! I've been waiting for something like this since i read gmoon's amp 'ible and wanted to do it small scale first. You probably know this but for anyone else to whom this might not be clear, this preamp (or any) will not perfectly replicate an overdriven all-tube amp, because the power stages also affect the tone. Also, based on my research, good iron(transformers) can make a really big difference, so as a mod someone could do this using trannies instead of the regulated switchmode Power supplies.
Lenny24 (author) in reply to carpe_noctemDec 20, 2010. 12:10 PM
Thanks! Yeah, thats right.I think my next 'ible will be a 5 Watt All-Tube Amp. Ive ordered some 12AX7 and EL84 Tubes, and I want to try that.
But If you only have got an Transistor Amp (Like me, until I finished my Tube Amp) this is a good option to bring some soft drive in your Songs.

Well, I dont have big Transformators at home, so now Im' thinking of Building the 5 Watt amp with a Switchmode, too. But in that case, I would build myself a step up transformer or I have to look for an ooooold TV. Otherwise, the big advantage of SMPS is, they have a much higher Frequency, which means you have no 50 - Hertz humming in your Powerline. SMPS handle frequencies, which are muuuuuch higher than the Human ear could Recieve.
carpe_noctem in reply to Lenny24Dec 25, 2010. 5:19 AM
yeah, i've just been drooling over all the guitar instructables. I moved and couldn't bring my guitar with me, so now all i have to play is some old classical guitar i picked up. Plus, i'm kinda broke too (studying hard with no time to work) so it'll probably be quite awhile until i can afford a guitar, let alone decent amp. I've been thinking of using a preamp like yours going into my computer. Using audacity (freeware)and headphones i can monitor myself and record loops to jam with...
Lenny24 (author) in reply to carpe_noctemDec 25, 2010. 6:10 AM
Cool Idea! For use with Computer, you could just put in a 3.5mm Stereo Jack as the output Jack in this design and mess around with it.But maybe you have to make some changes in the Input and Output stages. Use a 100 Ohm instead of a 10k ohm resistor in series with the 1M ohm resistor to make clean sound Possible and Use a 100k insted of a 10k series with the 100k output pot. That will decrease the outputlevel and makes it easier to handle with a Computer sound card.
carpe_noctem in reply to Lenny24Jan 13, 2011. 11:08 AM
I'll definitely keep this in mind for when I can finally get my guitar back. Thanks.
robot797 says: Dec 26, 2010. 2:10 PM
do you have a sircut that is more understandable (paint)
includien the step up converter?

if not
send me a better drawn one and i will draw it for you (high qualety)
Lenny24 (author) in reply to robot797Dec 26, 2010. 2:18 PM
I will make another 'Ible only for the Step-Up Converter in a Few Days.

Well, the Schematic ive drawn have a very high resolution ( I think 7k x 3k Pix)
And I gonna put some Eagle Schematics online.
robot797 in reply to Lenny24Dec 26, 2010. 2:39 PM
well okey
i just found the enlarge button (sorry)

i sm so gonna build this
i have 5 of thos those here
i can get them for 10$ new
Lenny24 (author) in reply to robot797Dec 27, 2010. 12:05 AM
Hehe... No Problem! :DD

Well, it has to be the 12AX7 or the 12AU7. The AX has a Higher gain so it will overdrive faster.
Aud1073cH in reply to Lenny24Jan 11, 2011. 1:05 PM
With the 12AU7 you could try the matsumin valvecaster. Made by matsumin, well documented by beavisaudio
robot797 in reply to Lenny24Dec 30, 2010. 7:42 AM
what if you used a tube transformer and put 250V + on the circut?
Lenny24 (author) in reply to robot797Dec 30, 2010. 12:56 PM
Well... I think the Anode Capacitor would explode... Its only rated at 100 Volts. So at first youll have to change some of the Parts, but if you got it to work, it will overdrive totally heavy, I think.
robot797 in reply to Lenny24Jan 11, 2011. 2:19 PM
that would be cool
so if all parts are +300 V it should work
Lenny24 (author) in reply to robot797Jan 11, 2011. 10:14 PM
Well, not All parts. The Cathode Bypass Caps should be Around 50 volts.
The Anode Caps something like 400 Volts and 2.2µF Elkos.

In my new Full-Tube Amp, I got the 12AX7 powered with 270 Volts, it sounds great!
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