Step 4: Finishing with Clear Coat

For the finish I use matte clear coat, which I pick up at my local hardware store. Before you start to spray. Make sure that the spay booth is on along with  your respirator. Start to spay your metal working back and forth from one side to other and over lapping as you move along. When the clear coat is dry you can pick up the metal.

And you are done.
<p>&quot;Cold Bluing&quot; is an interesting process, I think. I've always leaned towards hot bluing until I needed to re-blue a shotgun and realized I'd need a 55 gallon drum or 30&quot; deep metal dipping container full of boiling material that might catch flame during the process...(my neighbors, I discovered, were less than enthusiastic about this prospect)... So my precious Ithica 20 g. from 1943 became my first foray into larger surface bluing using the &quot;Cold Bluing&quot; method. It works... Just be careful how hot the metal is going to get during use. I've noticed slight discoloration after a decade around the area immediately below where the explosion takes place and intense flame and pressure are repeated during skeet shooting which really heats that upper barrel after a bit.</p><p>Thanks for a great presentation and good info.</p>
hand oils are very bad for clean metal. rust hand marks will show up in a few days in a humid area
very true.

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