There were a few options online for safe lights and some were even LED ones but most didn't offer what I wanted. I wanted red lights for at night in case I needed to access the safe without totally ruining my night vision and white lights for other times when I wanted to be able to see in the safe easily. I wanted something that the bulbs wouldn't need replaced too often and that was flexible enough to light up the inside of the safe easily. I chose the SMD 5050 300 strand in white and the SMD 5050 150 strand in Red. I also wanted there to be a motion sensor in the mix so I wouldn't have to try and line up a door switch or worry if I shut off the lights all the time.
(1) Warm white 5M SMD 5050 LED Strips Light 300 Led flexible Car Auto 60 leds /Meter - $13
(1) Red 5M 5050 SMD 150 LED Strips light leds 30 LEDs /Meter Flexible - $11
(1) Micro Switch Basic Snap Action Switch 15A V-15-1C25 - .50 cents
(1) 4x2x1 project enclosure. - $4
(1) 2.1mm x 5.5mm Female CCTV Power Jack Adapter - .54 cents
(2) 3/4 in. x 3/4 in. x 8 ft. MDF Primed Inside Corner Moulding - $6.60
(1) DC 12V 3A 36W US Power Supply Adapter for 3528 5050 RGB SMD LED Lamp Light Strip - $12
(1) Westek MLC12BC-4 Indoor Plug-In Corded Motion Activated Light Control - $18
Total Cost ~ $68. I'm sure you could get some of the items cheaper.
60/40 rosin core solder
Hot Glue Gun and glue sticks
Step 1: Mounting the Light Strips
Basically I was taking the edges off the L shape and making it more flattened. I cut the Molding into (2) 54 inch pieces and a 24 inch piece to fit the safe sides and bottom. Unfortunately the pics of the finished molding didn't turn out.
As an alternative to the molding you could tape a piece of flat plastic or whatever across the corners on the inside door frame of the safe to mount the lights too. As long as you are angling the light into more of the center of the safe.
Step 2: Adding the Light Strips
After I had the strips of lights attached to the molding and the connections soldered. I put the whole assembly into the safe facing in from the door frame. And added a few drops of hot glue to the molding to keep it from moving in the safe.
Step 3: Adding the Project Box
I connected the power from the Female connector to the center poles of the switch, then connected the two light strips to the end poles. Inserted all of it in the case. Hot glued the case to the inside of the safe. Made a quick test to be sure it worked and screwed on the cover to the case.
Step 4: Adding the Power and Wire Management.
I then rolled up and wire tied all the cables for the Power supply and motion detector. I plugged the power supply into the motion detector plug then plugged that into the power outlet in the back of the safe. It slightly covers the USB and network connector in the safe but not enough to make them unusable.