We found that we had only limited choices for building our device: we first tried to use rotary encoders, but it is not easy to find a cheap encoder that spins smoothly and freely. Another alternative was to buy some audio equipment (like turntables) that spin well and feel good to use - but this seemed both expensive and wasteful for our purposes. Then, while looking for inspiration amongst assorted junk in the lab, we came upon a broken hard disk drive with its case open. We admired the quality of the bearings in the motor that drives the disk plates, enjoyed the fact that even a soft flick would get it spinning for a long time, and wondered whether we could sample an output from it when it was spun by hand, in much the same way that an electric motor, when turned, acts as a dynamo and outputs a voltage.
The answer is yes - and it's a very simple process to turn a hard disk into a rotary input device that has some unique properties. All you'll need is an old hard disk drive, a few op amps, resistors and a programmable microcontroller of some kind.
In this Instructable we'll show the basic principles behind this hack, then provide the schematics and firmware for the HDDJ device (shown below) that we used in our project, and which includes a few extra buttons, lights and a motorized slider for good measure.
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Signing UpStep 1: Crack open a hard disk drive
Old, unwanted or broken hard disk drives (HDDs) are usually free and easy to get hold of. They come in all shapes and sizes, but the most common are the 3.5" HDDs that are used inside desktop PCs. We experimented with a number of different 3.5" HDD models, and found that most are suitable for our purposes (and would guess that smaller, laptop-sized disks would work just as well). The largest variation lies in how easy it is to open the case of some compared to others. Seagate HDDs, which often use plain Phillips screws in the casing, are our favorite.
The first step is to open the drive by removing all the screws that hold the case closed. Often these are torx screws, and you'll need an appropriate screw driver. Sometimes a screw will be hidden behind a label - so if you have trouble opening the case after all the screws seemed to have been removed, poke at the labels to find the culprit. If there is a label saying "Warranty Void if Removed," then, for sure, remove it.
Open the case, and reveal the disk platters in all their untouched glory. Never again will they be so free of fingerprints.
Remove the actuator that holds the read-write head, which stops the platters from spinning around freely. It's up to you how much more you want/need to remove (rule of thumb: anything sharp should go). The only thing that you need to keep attached are the frame, platters and spindle motor.
Thanks to Wikipedia for the "Anatomy of a Hard Disk Drive" image.








































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Like flipping the disk, each few revolutions being a degree of turn and then when you stop the disk, the processor nulls the rudder. Would make it so easy to navigate with a GPS in a narrow area. Some ideas on how to implement hydraulic or heavy servo mechanics using the control output of your design.... gonna look that kind of scenario up...
Thanks!
If you are a beginner of PIC, I'll recommand you an easy book.
Add me up as a MSN friend, "staybesideyou@hotmail.com"
Then, the outputs of the comparators show two signals in quadrature (90 deg apart) and one signal that is the inverse of one of the first two. Doesn't seem like the same device is being shown.
With four wires all alike, I'd expect them to be 90 deg apart, so there would be two pairs of inverse signals, with one pair leading the other by 90 deg. With three wires and a common (wye) I'd expect the three wires to be at 120 deg apart.
Do your pictures represent two different disk drives, wired differently?
Thanks for the instructable -- I'm going to try it myself.
It's an IBM Desktstar, isn't it?^^
Really cool idea, my friends are gonna be like "wtf?" :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaL5syVlae0
I posted the Arduino code here:
http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1251656637/0
Not quite how you did it, but I wouldn't have figured it out without this instructable. I used an old 1st gen iPod HD, and I only needed 2 pulse signals, amplified with LM386 op amps (would have used a LM358 dual opamp if I had one handy.)
It sends usb MIDI commands, routed by this program:
http://www.spikenzielabs.com/SpikenzieLabs/Serial_MIDI.html
to a shoddy Max/MSP patch that I threw together.
http://arduino.cc/