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Step 8Adding a PIC
The PIC I chose to use for this project is one of the smallest DIP microcontrolers you can find, the PIC10F202. Microchip makes surface mount versions of this chip that I would have liked to use but at 2.6mm I couldn't reasonably work with them.
You can leave the casing of the card "as is" and still have room for the PIC in the center, right underneath the Wii logo. I did this with my versions and and didn't have a problem.
You'll need to start by cutting a trace on the board that runs from the button to the little blob IC. We're going to tap into the button and avoid adding another. You'll want to make the cut close to the black blob so that we can solder a wire directly to the remaining trace. You'll know that the cut worked when you can't press the button to turn on the LEDs (when you insert the batteries, the LEDs will still turn on for ten seconds).
{picture coming soon}
Once you've cut the trace, scrape off a little bit of the solder mask coating the trace. This is where you'll solder the wire to your PIC.
Now we need to add wires to bring power off the main board and to the PIC. Remember the two pads that I pointed out for ground and +4.5V. You'll need to solder a wire to each of these pads.
The final wire you'll need should be soldered to the bottom right resistor on the board, this is a current limiting resistor for the transistor. Solder to the side of the resistor closest to the black blob. There isn't really a need to cut a trace here since we already disabled the time by cutting the button trace.
Now your ready to place your PIC.
Solder the two power lines to the corresponding pin on the PIC. +4.5V should go to Vdd(Voltage drain) and the ground should go to Vss(Voltage source).
Solder the wire from the LED transistor to the PIC's Port 0.
Solder the wire from the button to Port 3 on the PIC, thats the input only port.
You can leave the casing of the card "as is" and still have room for the PIC in the center, right underneath the Wii logo. I did this with my versions and and didn't have a problem.
You'll need to start by cutting a trace on the board that runs from the button to the little blob IC. We're going to tap into the button and avoid adding another. You'll want to make the cut close to the black blob so that we can solder a wire directly to the remaining trace. You'll know that the cut worked when you can't press the button to turn on the LEDs (when you insert the batteries, the LEDs will still turn on for ten seconds).
{picture coming soon}
Once you've cut the trace, scrape off a little bit of the solder mask coating the trace. This is where you'll solder the wire to your PIC.
Now we need to add wires to bring power off the main board and to the PIC. Remember the two pads that I pointed out for ground and +4.5V. You'll need to solder a wire to each of these pads.
The final wire you'll need should be soldered to the bottom right resistor on the board, this is a current limiting resistor for the transistor. Solder to the side of the resistor closest to the black blob. There isn't really a need to cut a trace here since we already disabled the time by cutting the button trace.
Now your ready to place your PIC.
Solder the two power lines to the corresponding pin on the PIC. +4.5V should go to Vdd(Voltage drain) and the ground should go to Vss(Voltage source).
Solder the wire from the LED transistor to the PIC's Port 0.
Solder the wire from the button to Port 3 on the PIC, thats the input only port.
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Nov 29, 2007. 5:27 PMhp_bierbaumer
says:
a smd led driver could be used to control each led individually (but would be quite some work to rewire the board)
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