Step 2: Wiring

You will need to solder five small wires on the bottom of the Arduino ISP Shield. 

Flip the board over and locate pin 1 of the ZIF socket.  This is the one nearest the lever switch, and will be at the top-right when the board is flipped over (component side down).  it's handy to mark this pin.

The diagram show the wring from the top, but the picture of the board shows what it will look like when you are done.

Connect Pin 4 to Pin 8 - this is the ground connection.
Connect Pin 28 to Pin 20 - this is the Vcc (+5 Volts)
Connect Pin 27 to Pin 19  - SCK - Serial Clock
Connect Pin 26 to Pin 18 - MISO - Serial Out
Connect Pin 25 to Pin 17 - MOSI - Serial In

Pin 1 - RESET is already connected on the board so we don't need to touch that.

Use a multimeter to check the connections - it is easy to short out adjacent pins as they are only 1/10" apart.
<p>Nice mod -- I almost always use attiny85 or atmega328, so this mod was perfect; I followed @ArtificerMade's lead.</p><p>Using solid core wire definitely helps make it easier. Take your time and you get get it nice and clean. </p><p>@cyclicedundancy has a good idea. If you carry it a bit further, you could add multiple sets of headers (to go into the EVM shield) wired to the ZIF socket; for attiny2313, attiny84, etc so you could just position the daughter board in a few positions for your specific chip.</p>
<p>This has been up for 3 years or so, but ... I just built it and thought I would say thanks.</p><p>Thanks!</p><p>Only addition I made was to tie pin 14 to pin 3 (the green wire with the cracked jacket). Pin 14 went to the &quot;Hello&quot; led. After burning the bootloader, running the &quot;blink&quot; sketch is a common way to check that the chip is working. Blink is the &quot;hello world&quot; for arduino type projects. With my setup, I just have to modify the output pin to 4 in the sketch (physical pin 3 is called 4 by arduino)</p>
<p>Nice add!</p>
thank you for finally replying. I was wondering about this, but had moved on to build8ng my own perfboard shield for my 85s
Doesn't routing those 3 wires on the right side take away the 328 program capability? I would think you wouldn't want to bridge those connections back into the chip.
Sorry for the delay - the atMega168/368 still work fine. The extra pins wired for the atTiny85 are not used when programming the bigger chips. Of course the wires are still there, the 168/328 just ignore them.
<p>does it still work for the atmega328/168/8 microcontroller??</p>
<p>It works fine for the 128/168 also. The signals on the extra pins are simply ignored when programming.</p>
This is so much simpler than what I came up with: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/heyvikram/sets/72157635589697575/with/9740290024/" rel="nofollow">http://www.flickr.com/photos/heyvikram/sets/72157635589697575/with/9740290024/</a><br> Wish I had googled it first... :-)

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More by rleyland:Hacking an Arduino ISP Shield for AtTiny45 / AtTiny85 
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