So you read my Xbox S controller tutorial, then you went out and tried to mod a 360 controller. Well, it's a little bit different.
Here I highlight the differences and show you how to get a microcontroller to perform different button functions with the new controller. And more importantly, I show you how to stuff it all into that sleek little case.
This tutorial covers the wired controller.
If you look at the pictures below, you will see step by step how to install using the smt optocoupler. But refer to step 4 to see how to make the smt optocoupler.
Step 1: The Buttons
Here, I show your the places where to access the X and Y button signals. The switching is different, so we need to switch these with use of optocouplers. Unlike relays, optocouplers are unidirectional, so we have to pay attention to how we hook them up.
What's an optocoupler? An optocoupler is a little light emitting diode placed next to a phototransistor in a plastic chip package. Here, I'm using the 4n27, which is a 6 pin device. I am using the DIP package, meaning it's full size with through-hole pins. Could I save a lot of space by using a surface mount part? Well, sort of. Surface mount mainly reduces the height of your circuit, rather than the width... especially considering the extra circuit board you would need. As you will see if you open up your controller, there isn't a lot of space here, but just south of the B button, there is a very tall space that we can utilize.
You can see that I placed a 1k axial resistor onto the R trigger potentiometer output so that it sticks str8 up. This makes it easier to acess after we have glued on the other chips, and if you clip it right, there's just barely room enough inside the case for it to stand str8 up like that.
The chip on the bottom is a microcontroller. It is deadbugged, with the notch pointing up.
The chips on the right are two stacked photocouplers.