Halloween 2009: the Comedian





Introduction: Halloween 2009: the Comedian

About: I'm a Canadian animation artist who likes to build things in my spare time, mostly costumes and props. And I love to learn new things.

Goal: create a better Watchmen's Comedian costume than the store-bought ones while keeping it in the same price range.

Wasn't able to find the costume anywhere, so the comparison had to be made with what I could find online.  Canadian retailers (yes, I am Canadian) apparently sold the costume for $85 (all prices in CAD, not USD).  The one you will see here amounted to $5-$10 more, so I'll round it off to an even $100.

While the costume is not 100% movie-accurate, this is as close as I could make it, given the budget and circumstances.  No power tools were used and much of it was improvised with the material that was on hand.  Got no clue how much time was put into making it.  Couldn't even give you a ballpark figure, so don't even ask.

Measurements have intentionally been left out.  The principles and methods outlined here are far more important than minor details like these.  Besides, I can't give away all my secrets :)

There are enough pieces to the costume for many of them to have their own Instructable, but I figured it would be nice to have everything in the same document so it's all easy to find.  This is by no means written in any particular chronological order as several pieces were being worked on at any given time.  Essentially, the costume (and this Instructable) can be broken down into the following parts:
-the shin guards
-the elbow and knee pads
-the guns and holsters
-the belt
-the suspenders
-the shoulder pads
-the torso armor
-the mask

Keep in mind this has been written with the assumption that some viewers will skip ahead or go back and forth in order to focus on what supports their interest at that particular time.  Consequently, some points are mentionned more than once in different steps.

Once in a while throughout this Instructable you will see DAISNAID, an acronym for Do As I Say, Not As I Do.  These are hints and suggestions that y'all can use to make an even better costume than what you see here.  Most are things I would do or take into consideration if I was going to repeat the process. 

Please leave me some comments when you're done going through this Instructable, especially constructive ones so the whole community can learn together, including myself.

Well then, let's get started, shall we?

Step 1: The Comedian: Shin Guards

Material used:
-cereal box for cardboard template
-vinyl banner thing
-silver spray paint
-black spray paint
-polyurethane protective coating spray
-masking tape
-polyester elastic
-stretch utility strap x 2 (one for each shin guard)
-hot glue

1- Measure and cut cardboard template.  Try it out to make sure the size looks right and that it fits between the boot and knee pad.
DAISNAID:  Get your knee pads before working on the shin guards.  I guesstimated and wound up making them a little too long.  By the time I had the pads and tried everything together, everything was allready painted and I didn't want to go through all that trouble again to fix it.

2- Trace the template onto the vinyl banner thing and cut it using a utility knife.  Use a ruler and press down hard on it to keep your cuts straight.
SIDETRACK MOMENT:  I really wasn't sure what I would be using for the shin guards and the belt buckle. I really didn't want to use corrogated cardboard because the stuff looks like crap, in my humble opinion.  My backup plan was to use another type of thick cardboard (I think it's called newspaper board), but my fear was that when it would be painted, the wetness would cause the cardboard to warp.  One day as I was leaving work, I noticed the office across from ours left a long, coiled up band of vinyl/flexible plastic stuff.  I think it's used for making signs or something.  Taped to it was a page with the word "garbage" written on it.  Presuming intervention, I picked it up and brought it home to a girlfriend rolling her eyes (I keep all kinds of crap for possible future projects:)

3- Take it to a well-ventilated area and spray on a few coats of silver paint.  Read the can for proper drying times.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

4- Decide and measure the silver border you'd like to keep and mask it out with the tape before applying black paint.  If the masking tape is well applied and completely flat on the surface, no worries about ruining the border.

5- After all the painting is done, protect your work of art with the polyurethane spray.  Read the can for instructions and drying time.

6- When it's dried and cured, put on a boot and place the painted vinyl thing on your shin as if it were in it's right place when the costume is done.  Bring out the elastic and measure the right length for being glued to the bottom side of the shin guard and running in the space between the front and the heel grip.  You could also have it go around the ankle if you prefer.  In any case, cut two pieces of the correct length, one for each guard.

7- Hot glue the elastic near the bottom of the shin guard and one of the straps across the top edge so it will go around your calf.  Alternatively, you could measure another length of elastic to go around your calf instead of using the straps, but personally I like having the velcro tabs to easily take it on and off.

GENERAL DAISNAID:  For cooler looking shin pads, you may want to consider a method to create raised edge instead of just having a boring silver-painted border.  You could use the template to create an edge template, trace it out on the same material you use for the shin guard, cut it and paint it and glue it on top of the main part.  If this is the case, there's no need to mask out the border and you can just paint the shin guard black, the edge piece silver, and glue the two together before applying the polyurethane.

Step 2: The Comedian: Elbow and Knee Pads

Material used:
-kids knee pads
-contractor knee pads (straps on knee pads should have the same width as the utility straps)
-empty 900g whey protein container
-stretch utility strap x 2
-silver spray paint
-polyurethane protective coating spray
-elbow support band
-knee support band
-black acrylic paint

1- First, the elbow pads.  Take the kids knee pads and wrap a grocery bag tighly around it so as to expose only the plasic "shell" part of the pad.  This will protect the material from the paint.

2- Paint it silver.  Read can for instructions and drying time.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

3- Apply polyurethane coating.  Read can for instructions and drying time.

4- Elbow pads are done.  Wipe beads of sweat from forehead and move on to next piece ;)

5- For the knee pads, cut off top and bottom from the container, closely following the beveled edges.  Then cut the remaining "tube" crosswise in half using the manufacturing "welded" seams as a guide.  These will cover the contractor knee pads, so make sure the height matches the knee pads and that they curves nicely around to cover them.  Adjust if needed.  I didn't need to.  Turned out that middle part of the container was exactly the size I needed :)

6- Cut three slots near each side, one over the other, making sure they are wide enough for the straps and far enough from the edge and from each other to be esthetically pleasing.  These are the slots through which the straps will go to hold the "cover" over the knee pad.

7- Paint silver.  Read can for instructions and drying time.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

8- Apply polyurethane coating.  Read can for instructions and drying time.

9- Remove straps from knee pads.  Place the painted cover over the knee pad and weave one of its straps through the top hole on one side of the knee pad, through a top slot of the cover, across the cover and through the top slot on the other side and through the other top hole in the knee pad.  Repeat for the bottom strap.  Use a utility strap for the middle in a similar way.

10- The support bands are to be worn before putting on the elbow and knee pads.  But first they need to be dyed black.  Tried some fabric dye, but it wasn't absorbed at all by these.  I'm guessing their design prevents them from absorbing liquids, i.e. perspiration.  So I diluted black acrylic paint and soaked them in it and what you see here is what I got.  I figure there's got to be a better way.  If you know one, please leave a comment below.
DAISNAID:  Go to a fabric store and look for a black elastic material.  They gotta have spandex or something.  Heck, they may even have some kind of ribbed texture material to make it closer to what the Comedian has in the movie.  All you'd need to do is measure out a rectangle and sew together two opposing sides so you end up with an elastic tube you can slip on.

Step 3: The Comedian: Guns and Holsters

Material used:
-toy gun x 2
-yellow sticky note
-image creation software
-paper for template
-denim-like fabric
-black fabric dye
-1" webbing strap
-three-pronged clips
-stretch utility strap x 2

1- I couldn't find any smiley face stickers I could use on the guns so I just created one using software.  I printed out a test page to have four smileys of the proper size in the smallest area possible on the page.  I then placed a yellow sticky note over the area where the smileys were and printed again to have four smileys on the sticky note.  They were cut out and glued, one on each side of each gun.  Glue was also applied over them to seal them in.

2- The outline of one of the toy guns was traced off on paper.  A rough holster shape was drawn around the silhouette.  Half the thickness of the gun was added to the straight side and to the curve.  The page was folded in half with the straight side along the fold.  Both halves of the page were cut, following the traced holster shape.  When unfolded there was a symmetrical template for the holster pouch.  The paper pouch was folded around the gun and measurements made for the strap to hold the gun in, which was drawn on another piece of paper and taped to the pouch part.  The whole thing was traced on another piece of paper for the final template you see in the picture.

3- The template was then traced twice on the fabric, once as is and once flipped to create a mirrored version so you have one for each side.

4- After the holsters were cut out, they were dyed black along with the suspender pads.

5- After attaching the three-pronged clip the webbing strap was sewn onto the pouch at this point, leaving some space between the strap and pouch for the utility strap that will go around the thigh.
DAISNAID:  As is, the holster had a tendency to turn away from the leg, making the butt of the gun catch onto a bunch of things, like the arms of a chair when I would sit down.  I suggest adding a second utility strap near the wide opening of the pouch to keep it against the thigh.

6- The seams of the holster were then sewn and velcro tabs added to keep the strap over the gun.

Step 4: The Comedian: Belt

Material used:
-paper for template
-vinyl banner thing (see shin guard section for SIDETRACK MOMENT)
-silver spray paint
-black spray paint
-polyurethane protective coating spray
-button cover cap x 8
-chip bag clip x 2
-white glue
-hot glue
-tool belt

1- The template was drawn on paper and measurements made.  I have no clue how accurate the proportions are compared with the movie version.  The size looked good and it was all kind of eyeballed.

2- The different pieces were measured and traced on the vinyl banner thing.  After they were cut using a utility knife, the pieces were painted the appropriate color.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

3- The pieces were glued together with white glue, including the button caps.  When the glue was set, a few coatings of polyurethane were applied for protection and to seal everything together.

4- To finish, the clips were hot glued to the back.  These will clamp on the front of the tool belt when the costume is worn.

Step 5: The Comedian: Suspenders

Material used:
-paper for template
-denim-like fabric
-black fabric dye
-1" webbing strap
-D-ring x 2
-plastic adjustable thingy x 2
-smiley pin

1- A paper template was drawn and traced four times on the fabric.  Four rectangles of fabric were also measured to hold the strap against the suspender pads.

2- The pieces were sewn together to create the suspender pads and dyed black.  Once dry, short lengths of straps were cut and glued on each pad to secure the D-rings to them.
DAISNAID:  It is recommended to sew the lengths of strap to two rectangles before sewing them onto the pads.  I just forgot to do it so I managed with glue.

3- The rest is pretty straight-forward.  A length of strap is weaved through each suspender pad.  The back end is sewn to create a loop through which a belt will pass.  The front end is sewn to a plastic thingy in such a way to allow the front loop to be adjusted.  A "cross-strap" looped at both ends is secured with velcro a short distance from the suspender pads.  These will prevent the suspenders from sliding over the shoulder and falling off once the shoulder pads are attached.

4- Finish off by adding the smiley pin to the left D-ring.

Step 6: The Comedian: Left Shoulder Pad

Material used:
-plastic salad bowl x 2
-red spray paint
-silver spray paint
-polyurethane protective coating
-hot glue
-1" webbing strap
-polyester elastic

1- A center line was found on the bowls and lines traced to go from the center at the edge of the opening to the edge of the flat part of the bottom.  Three "wedges"were cut using scissors.

2- Two pieces were painted red and one was painted silver.  When the paint was dry, a few layers of polyurethane were applied.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

3- The three sections were hot-glued together.  An elastic was added to secure it to the arm and a length of strap added to loop around the suspender pad and armor, attaching to itself using velcro.

Step 7: The Comedian: Right Shoulder Pad

Material used:
-empty cat litter container
-masking tape
-paper maché mix (equal parts of water and white flour)
-paper star
-silver paint
-blue paint
-polyurethane protective coating
-polyester elastic
-1" webbing strap
-hot glue

1- The cat litter container had a side that seemed perfect to use for the basic frame.  It was cut out, making a curve on the bottom where the arm will be, and layers of newspaper were taped on to give it a rounder shape.

2- Once the overall shape seemed satisfactory, a few layers of paper maché were applied.  Once it hardened when it dried, spackle was applied to smooth out the bigger dips that are inevitable in this kind of work.  The whole thing was then sanded to make everything as symmetrical and smooth as possible.
DAISNAID:  If you take your time and are not sloppy when sanding, you can end up with a much smoother surface than what you see in these pictures, making for a more metal-looking texture when everything will be painted.  However a dent here or there can look like battle damage if done properly.  On the other hand, in my recollection of the movie it didn't seem to be damaged at all.  Must be because the only person who could sneek up on the Comedian was Adrian Veidt.  And he kills him.

3- The shoulder pad was then painted silver.
DAISNAID:  Make sure you get the right kind of paint for your purposes.  The silver paint I got didn't adhere well to any of the surfaces I applied it to.  It chipped off easily, creating the need for an unnecessary and frustrating touch-up phase.

4- A paper star was drawn on paper and taped to the shoulder pad.  It was then covered with masking tape (in case the paint would seep through the paper) before applying a few layers of blue paint.  Once dry, a few layers of polyurethane were applied.
  In retrospect, the star on the shoulder pad seems quite large.  Remember to take into account the width of the masking tape when deciding the measurements.

5- A polyester elastic was cut and hot-glued to the bottom side of the shoulder pad to keep it against the arm when worn.  A short length of strap was also glued and velcro tabs added so that it would loop around the armor and attach to itself.

Step 8: The Comedian: Torso Armor

Material used:
-paper for template
-sleeveless shirt
-masking tape
-workshop floor mat
-tie straps
-hot glue

1- Alot of brainstorming was done for this part.  Everything was planned and drafted on paper before moving on.  It was attempted to address any conceivable problem.  It took a few attempts, even at the planning stage, to get things right and figure out how everything would come together.

2- A sleeveless shirt was worn and masking tape used to mark off how the abs sections would be seperated.  The shape of the shirt was traced on paperand the different pieces that would be needed were measured and cut accordingly.  A series of templates were created for the chest and upper back, the lower back, the sides, and three sections for the abs.  These were actually all taped together and worn as if it was the real thing.  Adjustments were done as needed.

3- When the paper template was done, it was taken apart again and the individual pieces were traced on the floor mat keeping in mind the direction of the grooves.  It was taken into account where the sides of different parts would come together and some sides were traced larger than the template where needed.

4- The different pieces of the armor were attached together using tie straps (see pictures).  Duct tape was applied over the extra bits to prevent unwanted poking when worn.
  Originally, the tie straps were only there to reinforce hot glue on the joints.  The only part with only hot glue applied is the part  covering the lower back.  With all the moving around I did, by the end of the day the glue held nothing together.  The lower back fell off at some point.  If I were to redo this, I would have to think of a better way to secure that piece.  Otherwise, everything worked fine.

5- To get the chest shape, I had originally cut out more pieces from the cat litter container used for the right shoulder pad, however the plastic proved to be too flimsy to serve its intended purpose.  In the end, I just used tie straps to pinch the center of the chest to create "cleavage".  Looks good in some pictures and not-so-good in others, so although it did the trick, there must be a better way.

Step 9: The Comedian: Mask

Material used:
-plaster bandage
-plaster of paris
-petroleum jelly
-liquid latex
-black body paint
-toilet paper
-baby powder
-nose wax

1- To begin with, a cast of my face was done using the plaster bandage.  The face was covered with petroleum jelly, heeding special attention to the eyebrows and hairline.  It is important to note the bandage was applied in small strips everywhere on the face except for the eyes and under the nose.  When the cast was dry enough, it was pulled off and these areas were patched up.

2- When the cast was completely dry, some petroleum jelly was applied to the inside surface and a batch of plaster of paris was prepared and poured inside.  After 24hrs of letting it set the cast was removed, leaving behind a perfect replica of my face.  It was then set aside and left alone for a few days to make sure it was dry and ready for use.

3- A rough outline for the mask was sketched on the plaster face with a pencil, as well as a mustache just for the heck of it :)

4- Some liquid latex was poured into a seperate sealable container.  Body paint was added bit by bit while mixing it.  The idea was to have enough color to make the latex black while not diluting the latex so much as to compromise its usability.  The final mix ended up being a dark grey.  It is my experience when doing this kind of thing that the color of the latex will get darker as it dries.

5- A few layers of latex were then smeared on the plaster face.  No need to be exact at this stage as this was just to set the base layers before defining the shape.  The more you take your time in this entire process, the smoother the latex will be.  Some people use a brush or a makeup sponge to apply the latex, but my preference is to use my finger.  I have ruined brushes and sponges doing this kind of thing and prefer to use my finger because I can feel when the latex begins to get too tacky to be workable and found it very easy to peel off any that sticks to my finger.

6- The latex was then gently peeld off and some baby powder brushed on it as it was being pulled off.  Failing to to this would have resulted in the latex curling up or folding and sticking to itself.  Once the latex was completely removed, the shape of the mask was drawn on and it was cut with scissors.  It was folded in half to get as symmetrical a shape as possible.

7- Once the mask was cut out, it was placed on the plaster face again and more latex applied, this time also layering in strips of toilet paper to reinforce the latex.  Basically latex was applied and when dry toilet paper placed on top and latex added to hold it in.  Then, when it was dry, more toilet paper and more latex and so on.  There are probably a total of four or five layers of toilet paper.  The mask was then pulled off the plaster face again and the edges recut to clean it up.

8- At this point the process could have ended (see picture hand holding up mask), but somehow the mask looked too bland.  Boring.  Uninteresting.  It was decided to sculpt on some features using nose wax.  The brows were given a sharper edge and the furrows for the frown was given definition.  A few layers of latex were added to seal it in and a mask worthy of the Comedian was done.

Step 10: The Comedian: Other Accessories

I walked around carrying several accesssories with me for photo ops.  The guns are allready mentionned with the holster.  A lighter and cigar are almost a trademark for the character.  A flask is nice to have, as well as a pump-action toy shotgun.

Not pictured (but worth considering) are:
-a shotgun shell belt to sling over a shoulder
-a sniper rifle (I almost got a Nerf N-Strike Longshot or Recon :)  )
-a newspaper (to mimick the scene where Ozymandius is trying to create a team)
-dog tags and flame thrower (for the 'nam scenes)

Keep in mind how long you'll be walking around with all this.  Too much stuff can get cumbersome.

Step 11: Conclusion

I wore black cargo pants and boots.  The suspenders and holster straps were attached to a belt I wore on my cargo pants, completely hidden by the tool belt.  I also wore a black sleaveless shirt under the armor.  I grew a beard for four weeks and shaved off everything except the sideburns and mustache the night before I wore the costume.

Overall I'm quite pleased and proud of how this project turned out.  I find it photographs pretty well.

Well, I guess this is where it comes to an end.  I hope you've all enjoyed reading this, despite its length and perhaps some confusing parts.  If y'all have any questions, write them below and I'll answer to the best of my knowledge.  By all means, I'd like to get some feedback.  I'd love to hear how some of you would have approached things differently, and if any of you have any tips on how to make this even better, I'm all ears.

Now let's start thinking about next year...

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    39 Discussions

    I'm guessing there's a typo in your question and that you're asking why not use knee pads for the elbow pads, am I right? There are two reasons.

    First, knee pads tend to be larger. My arms aren't big enough to have the straps fit correctly...yet (Need to work out a tad more often for that :P). But even then, I suspect they might look too bulky. Try them yourself in store and see how you like them before buying. If you like them, cheers! It might be best to find some real elbow pads, but in my experience those are harder to come by.

    The other reason is that the pads I found were cheap and have an interesting shape. They caught my eye at Dollarama and they just seemed perfect for this project. How could I go wrong?

    I have never been able to make a costume as accurate as I want, but I think I make good choices in compromising for the sake of a low budget. In other words, I think I know well enough where to cut corners and still be happy with the end product :D

    I have no clue what the material is. It fell from heaven, for all I know :P It's not particularly rigid unless the pieces are small enough. If I were to do it again I would probably just used corrugated cardboard covered with poster board to get a smooth surface. Not only is it cheaper but it also would have been easier to give it a curve to better fit around the shin.

    I was thinking about this for making knee pads. Why not just use knee pads? I guess if you are going for move/tv replica accuracy I can see why. But if I'm doing something more fantasy or fake functional, I'd probably go with knee pads that can be bought, like you're contractor pads.

    Was the sign material called sintra? A rigid PVC? I have trouble finding it in Canada, a few places just recommend calling a sign shop and asking for extras. I'll be following you for the Canadian content :) Took me so long to find some Plastidip for painting EVA craft foam that now that's winter I probably can't spray anything cause it will take too long to dry ;)

    I have a question about the shoulder pads. I have cut out and painted all three sections. I notice it is hard to get them to overlap without shortening. How did you go about gluing these into place without excess plastic poking around?

    1 reply

    Lining up the pieces was tricky. Overlapping will cause some shortening, but that is the effect needed. The eureka moment I had when fiddling with them was realizing that the corners of the wedges need to be spaced out a bit, as in they don't all meet up exactly, but it doesn't look so bad if the corners are fixed to the edge of the overlapping piece. Kinda hard to describe, but a close look at the pictures should clarify. Use tape to hold the pieces in place temporarily while you play around with the spacing, and when you find something you like, mark the position on the inside so you know where to place the pieces when comes the time to glue.

    I hope this helps. Good luck!

    This is a pretty sick mask but it seems to me to be almost exactly the same as the BFX version O_o but good none the less

    could you possibly put the measurements for the holster up?(
    (I know it's different for every different type of gun, but I actually have the same kind of gun as you)

    Here is the video link i was telling you about. Just thought it might help you is all. Not saying your way was right ot wrong just helping out. http://youtu.be/Sv5SXqgFRV8

    1 reply

    Definitly not the foam I was thinking of. Still seems kinda stiff but it might be different when you're actually holding the sheet in your hands instead of just looking at it on video. I might look into using that next time I need a mask. Thanks!

    Its not the stiff foam. Its really thin and it comes in packs of 12 all different colors i will do some more digging and get back to you what type of foam i am talking about and if i can't i will see if i can up load a video from youtube for you to see what i mean...

    Take a peace of thin craft foam. Heat it up till its droopy lay it on the in sided of the plaster mold then place it over you face while its still warm it won't burn or hurt you. let it set for a few sec's and that sould be all you need. Also make sure you spare something of a powder inside the maks so that the foam dose not get stuck in it. But after you take out the foam then take some school elmers glue water it down and brush the out side with a think coat. Might have to do that s few time so it will stiffen up. Then you should be able to cut out the eyes and what not. also paint it...

    1 reply

    Ah, craft foam. Now we're talking different material, which means different problems. I honestly hadn't thought of that. However if we're thinking about the same type of foam, I seem to recall it being quite stiff.

    The problem with stiff material is that when the face moves (due to the variety of expressions it naturally goes through any given day) the material does not bend or move with the pressure being applied, which means more stress on the adhesive (e.g. spirit gum), which means it's harder to keep it on there and requires more frequent reapplication.

    If you're thinking of something more pliable like EVA, then yeah, maybe it's worth a try. Again, it's something I hadn't considered at the time. The challenge with this one is it requires sculpting due to the thickness, and personnally I find it easier to build up to the thickness and shape you need vs chipping away. The eye-holes-and-overall-shape-and-how-it-looks-on-the-face thing also isn't resolved with this approach.

    I still prefer my approach Of course, anyone else attempting to do a mask is free to choose whatever method they feel works best.

    You should have done the black mask in the inside of the plaster mold. You would hve gotten a lot better looking and it would have fit a lot better too.

    1 reply

    I agree it would've had a smoother texture but disagree on it fitting better, seeing as how the part that would have been touching my skin wouldn't have been moulded to the shape of my face. It also would have been harder to figure out the overall shape of the mask, especially the eye holes, and conveniently see how well it fit. It would have been a lot more trial and error as pieces were being cut off. Plus it would have been harder to modify the brow like I did after I thought the original look was too boring.

    I appreciate the suggestion, but I stand by my approach :-)

    i dont know about toy guns but for airsoft guns its a federal crime to take the orange tip off. Sorry for being a jerk.

    1 reply

    If I was walking in public waving them around, yeah, I'd worry about it. Especially for living in a country where handguns are illegal. But when I'm hanging around my apartment with friends, somehow I think Big Brother has bigger fish to fry.

    Now, if I was out threatening people or trying to rob a bank or something, that's a whole other situation :-P

    People, use common sense, 'K?

    love it. maybe a instructable on Rorshach too?