Step 11: Fence posts

Ah, the fence posts.

These babies are needed in order to hold the fence pieces up.

Each post is a little less than 5 foot tall so it will be taller than your fence. You can adjust the height to whatever you like. I shot for the middle height of the fence section which is at 38" to 40"

You can not top this with the standard finial so you have options.

>>>Option 1, buy a 2" PVC cap. Simple enough right?
>>>Option 2, buy a small skull for each one, the route I went. You can get them from the skeleton store online, or go to a dollar tree and see what they have.
>>>Option 3, minimalist, Just leave them open
>>>Option 4, cover them with a prop or some spanish moss.
                     I personally like the spanish moss. Expensive in stores but you can buy it by
                     the bag on Ebay for 15 dollars or so

Once you figure out how to top your posts, you need to put them up.
You may have to cut your rebar in order to do this. If you do, cut it with a hack saw, sawzall, or a cut off wheel on a metabo. I used the metabo,


Year one I used Rebar to secure the fence post upright. They had more wobble than I wanted in the long runs along the front of the house. Last year I used 4 foot T Posts you would get at Home Depot or a store of the like for about 3 to 4 dollars each. You only have to plant them 1 foot into the ground and they are way sturdier than the rebar. They stay where you put them and don't wobble around at all. This is the way to go and it works much much better.

I will leave the Rebar way in here as a second option.

*****Safety tip*****
Use safety glasses, a face shield, gloves, and long pants to use the metabo. It will shower you in sparks. You don't want a trip to the ER with metal in your eye.

Take that piece of rebar you used to paint on earlier and pound it 18" or so into the ground. Start at a corner of the yard, it will be easier.

Now put the post over the rebar and congratulations, you have a post mounted upright

There are two ways to put all the posts up. One is to put the posts up before you put any fencing. The other is to put one post in place and attach a piece of fence and then put the next post up. I did the latter. Putting up on one post at a time helped to achieve a very tight fence with no gaps between the post and cross bars.

If you want you can skip ahead to the next step and mount a panel in place each time, just revert back to this step if you really need to. I think you will get it though.

Volunteer help here would be helpful as many hands make light work. It took me 5 hours by myself to put up my fence. Apparently when it is sprinkling, no one wants to come help.

***Safety Tip***
Wear gloves while pounding the rebar in. Also, put on some safety glasses. This might seem silly but if you hit the bar wrong and a piece of metal flies into your eye, your whole Halloween season will be ruined. Trust me, I'm a safety manager.
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<p>great instructions. A couple things I did. I used 5/8 dowels to connect the 5/8 finials. I used great stuff foam insulation in the 2 inch tube to stabilize it .Thanks for the great idea. </p>
<p>Glad it worked out for you. Good luck using it for years to come. This is my 5th year and it is still going strong.</p>
Thanks for your instructable Haunted Spider. My son and I completed our Cemetery Fence this weekend. The only thing we did different was to use 3/8&quot; rebar to support the fence ( 1 piece of rebar in each of the long posts, so two per section). Your instructions were spot on. Here's a picture of our completed work. <br> <br>Thanks again, <br>Flying Conch <br>
The fence looks great. I like the aged rust look. What technique did you end up using for that? I never found one I really liked so I left it black.
We used a can of rust colored primer in a spray can. Started light and continued to add. This afternoon, I'm headed down to the canal to get some Spanish Moss.
Wonderful fence. I built it 2 years ago from your directions and its still going strong. It's seems to get better with age and gets the rustic look. I can't wait to put it up his year.
Glad it is still working out for you. This will be my 4th year putting up the fence and it still works great for me as well. I have actually added some LED lamps to a few of the posts leading to my drive and sidewalk. But otherwise it is unchanged and still holding. Good luck with the set up this year.
So Cool!!! The <a href="http://www.lynxfence.com/home-owners/residential-ornamental-iron-fencing.html" rel="nofollow">metal fence calgary</a> looks incredible man.
Holy Crap.<br>Beyond awesome. This is on my list of things to do in my life when I can quit being so lazy. (and I have a place to store the thing). Thanks a ton for posting this and all the great tips. (I found this looking for PVC painting tips.
Awesome instructable! With all the detail provided, I was able to make my own fence (which turned out as good as I'd hoped it would). Your helpful tips were appreciated and definitely made things easier for me - thanks!!
I am quite impressed by the level of detail and information you provided. Thank you for taking the time to explain your successes (and possible failures). All the best in the contest!
Thanks, I tried to explain the project as best I could. I found that searching online, I only ever got pieces of information on how to create a fence. No one showed the steps or why you need to do something a certain way. Hopefully this will give people a better understanding on how to go from start to finish.
Nice work! That's dedication. Your use of multiple jigs really must have tremendously sped up the process (which was still quite long, I'm sure!).<br><br>Absolutely, you must add this to the Halloween contest. Once you've done so, I'll cast my vote.
Thanks for the compliment. It did take a while to make but not too long over all. If I had good weather, the whole thing could be done in about 2 weeks. You have to let paint dry and you just get too burnt out working hours on end. With a volunteer crew of 4 or 5, it would go fast.

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Bio: I work as a safety and health specialist for the NEORSD (Sewer district). I don't get to touch a tool on the job as ... More »
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