Introduction: Halogen to LED Work Light Conversion
Halogen Work Lights are great, they are super bright and are nice a portable, most even come with a nice Tri-pod stand ! However if you have used one you know they are NOT perfect, first off most have two 500-watt bulbs, that's 1,000 watts total !! See Halgen lamps are in-efficient sending most of the energy to heat. Which means they get HOT, I mean touch it and it burns you. Working under these lights you can really feel the heat, and if your clumsy like me and knock one over - POP there goes another bulb. So what's the solution ????? LED's of course !!!!. They do make some LED ones, and some Fluorescent one's but they are really expensive and Fluorescent takes a while to warm up. So if your like me and have a old Halogen one sitting around with blown bulbs in it, or you find one at a garage sale cheap, or maybe even make your own stand !
- Screw driver's
- Soldering Iron
- Heat Shrink ( or tape)
- Wire Cutter's/strippers
- Light stand ( bought or homemade )
- LED Outdoor Flood Lights
Step 1: Step 1: Remove the Old Lights
Now that you have found that old work light and brushed all the cob-webs and dead bugs off it, you can begin. Simply take off the covers on the back and remove the wire's. Now note, some lights have a switch right on the back on the light, for low/high/off, i removed this, however you can put in a switch if you like, I just hardwired it. Then Proceed to remove the old lights from the unit. Try and save all of the hardware, and wiring for later.
Step 2: Step 2: Attach the New Lights
I found nice 10 watt LED outdoor floodlights, made for 115v AC. They draw about 12 watt's a piece, and thanks to opening up a amazon credit card, and a old amazon gift card this upgrade was free ! I was really impressed with these lights, real quality. There was a nice little thumb-screw on the old lights that I simply removed and put on the new lights, then I was almost done.
Step 3: Step 3: Wire It All Up
Now this is about the only part that is a little tricky. The wiring, now I took the back off of the LED lights and removed the 120v wiring from the driver ( the device that take AC and steps in down to DC that the LED's can handle ) and de-soldered it. I could have just cut and soldered in the new one, but i wanted to eliminate any chance for a short. It's also now all the same wire gauge from the plug to the driver. Now keep in mind that most of these LED lights are not going to have White ( Neutral ) - Black ( Hot ) - Green ( Ground ) They are going to have Blue ( Neutral ) - Brown ( Hot ) - Green-Yellow ( Ground ). So be careful, and don't get to confused. Be sure so put the wire thought the rubber grommet and seal to ensure water-tightness.
Step 4: Final Step: Test It Out
Now being that you did everything correct, and followed the steps the light works perfect ! In my honest opinion I think the light output is the same for both, however the LED seems to have a softer light. The power difference is amazing, its also really shock resistant. No more getting burnt ! I left these on for a few hours and barely warm to the touch. A lot easier to work with on a hot summer work project. These are also great to have in a truck or car break down or event. Being that these two total draw about 24 watt's, they can be used in the cheapest car inverter's, and not kill your battery ! Do not try this with the old light unless you have one that can handle 1,000 - 1,200 watt of continuous power, then your batteries die.
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