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After a summer of taking my little portec hammock on canoeing and camping trips, I decided that I wanted to be able to enjoy the hammock in the winter too! Our winters get to -35c and it's not so comfortable outside anymore!
I'm always interested to hear constructive criticism!
I'm always interested to hear constructive criticism!
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Signing UpStep 1Materials
Materials
4 - 4"x4"x10" posts
12 - lag bolts (I think I had 3.5") & washers
8 - 2" eye bolts w/ wood thread
3 - 3" eye bolts w/ wood thread
4 - turnbuckles
? - aircraft cable (I used high-tensile climbing rope, which has some acceptable give to it.)
Tools
- compound mitre saw (what I used) / chop saw / hand saw
- sockets to fit the lag bolt you choose
- drill and/or socket wrench
- 1" spade bit
- a spade bit - slightly larger than the diameter of your lag bolt
- a wood drill bit - slightly smaller than the diameter of the threads on your lag bolts
- measuring tape
- sharp knife
- small leverage bar to aid in threading eye-bolts into wood
4 - 4"x4"x10" posts
12 - lag bolts (I think I had 3.5") & washers
8 - 2" eye bolts w/ wood thread
3 - 3" eye bolts w/ wood thread
4 - turnbuckles
? - aircraft cable (I used high-tensile climbing rope, which has some acceptable give to it.)
Tools
- compound mitre saw (what I used) / chop saw / hand saw
- sockets to fit the lag bolt you choose
- drill and/or socket wrench
- 1" spade bit
- a spade bit - slightly larger than the diameter of your lag bolt
- a wood drill bit - slightly smaller than the diameter of the threads on your lag bolts
- measuring tape
- sharp knife
- small leverage bar to aid in threading eye-bolts into wood
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I used treated 4x4 (only thing available at the Home Depot I was at), something I later regretted when I was going to stain it as I was told the stain wouldn't stick. I guess the wood was dry enough because after sanding it down with a hand sander the stain was absorbed by the wood just fine.
Thanks for the guide forke!
So you were after 28 degrees. All miter saws are currently set to 90 degrees.
By adding a wedge along your rail you adjust the original 90 degree set to 45. Now just swing your arm over 17 degrees and voila. Also i must say the tip of the wedge has to just meet the blade. If you make the wedge kinda wide you can drill a large hole in it and quickly clamp and unclamp it to you fence with a screw clamp or quick grips. Alliteratively you can just add a piece of wood to your wedge that acts as a wall and just clamp that you your miter fence.
I usually make the wedge longer so i have more straight side as a rail for accuracy sake sorry my quick mspaint drawings are not to scale.
Another approach to stiffening it laterally would be to use a 1/4-inch plywood web. Use Gorilla Glue to really keep it tight.
Did you mean to put some dimensions in this Instructable? I believe for most hammocks the connecting ends must be 14 feet apart.
I hid the only reference to size! The 4th picture of the last step shows that it is 130" from eye-bolt to eye-bolt (10.83 feet). The overall length was about 140".
I deliberately didn't put measurements in, as I had two variables that I think would differ for most people.
The first is the amount of space you are dealing with (although not really an issue if outdoors). I my case I knew that I had 140 The second is the optimal distance for your hammock. I don't know enough about them to know if there is a "standard" hammock eye-to-eye distance. I kinda doubt it though.
That being said, most measurements would be quite standard, what would vary is the angle at which you cut the vertical pieces. If other hammocks need more distance (quite understandable, as this could be considered a "compact" one) a 12' main horizontal beam could be used instead of the 10'.
I'll update the 3rd picture of the 2nd step ("Design & Cuts") to show the really basic lengths of the beams.