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This is a cast iron Hand Lamp. The arm started as a wax positive from a life casting done in alginate and plaster bandage. From there a hole was cut into the center of the palm (of the wax positive) to allow the lightbulb socket to become lodged in what will be the final setting in metal. A smaller hole is cut to allow the toggle switch to pop through at the elbow joint. Using the lost wax casting process, the wax positive is burnt out of a high temperature ceramic shell and I am left with a hollow negative of my original wax arm. Next, add molten iron and let sit. Once cool, the raw iron product is chipped out of its ceramic shell, chased with files and grinders, and finally treated with a combination of an oil finish and ferric nitrate for aesthetic rust. -For any cast iron needs, contact the MassArt Iron Corps!

The wiring of the lamp was a piece of cake-

The black rubber socket is available at home depot(and inexpensive, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Weatherproof-S... as well as a variety of switches.

I used a toggle switch in the lamp above http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-S... also inexpensive.

Lastly, a few pieces of lamp wire can be bought, cut, and connected to the switch, socket, and power source with electrical tape to prevent any live wires touching the metal casting.

Lamp cord used in this piece-

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Westinghouse-8-ft-SPT-2...

<p>It's creepy and I love it! you have my vote :)</p>
<p>Thank you all for such positive support! </p><p>And @hjjusa, half a basketball or any other positive form could be made in wax as well(or an organic material, depending on your facilities you can burn out organic matter from ceramic shell while it's in the kiln.) if you attach the lampshade in wax you just have to make sure the desired final wax positive is sprued for the ceramic shell process properly. However, if you have the lamp base and a shade made in metal, you can fabricate a connection as you see fit. What I've seen work best in the past, as far as attaching to cast iron goes-if you're not in a position to stick weld nickel rod, flanges work really well. You can incorporate a lip of sorts, or a surface that could be tapped/died and with appropriately sized hardware as demanded by the project connect the two(or more) pieces. There's really a different, best solution to each specific project, but I like looking at existing objects for inspiration, ie pipe fittings, ac ventilation, even basic things like the connection of a vacuum to its hose.</p><p>Feel free to ask specific questions regarding the cast iron process, mold making, as well as basic metal fabrication!</p>
<p>Now THAT's what I call art! Looks fantastic!</p>
<p>Be interesting if the hand was holding half a basketball or something similar for a lampshade.</p>
<p>This is one of the coolest light fixtures I've ever seen. Definitely going on my favorites list. </p>

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