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In my earlier project I used this device as a IR Transmitter and promised to upload this project description in next instructables.

So here I present you IR Transmitter using 555 Timer.


Last project in which this remote

We want to design a astable multivibrator of 38KHz. This can be done by using 555 Timer.

Step 1: Schematic Diagram

In the above circuit, 555 Timer is wired as an Astable Multivibrator. The 100μF capacitor (C1) is used to reduce ripples in the power supply. 1st and 8th pins of 555 are used to give power Vcc and GND respectively. 4th pin is the reset pin which is active low input, hence it is connected to Vcc. 5th pin is the Control Voltage pin which is not used in this application, hence it is grounded via a capacitor to avoid high frequency noises through that pin. Capacitor C2, Resistors R1, R2 determines the time period of oscillation. Capacitor C2 charges to Vcc via resistors R1 and R2. It discharges through Resistor R2 and 7th pin of 555. The voltage across capacitor C2 is connected to the internal comparators via 2nd and 6th pins of 555. Output is taken from the 3ed pin of the IC. Charging time constant of the capacitor (output HIGH period) is determined by the expression 0.693(R1+R2)C2 and discharging time constant (output LOW period) is determined by 0.693R2C2. They are approximately equal.

You can use the RESET pin of 555 for transmitting binary data.

Step 2: RequirementS



1. 9V battery( I used and old 9V battery)
2. 100uF capacitor ( optional )
3. 0.001uf capacitor
4. 0.1uf capacitor
5. 1 K resistor
6. 22 Ohms resistor
7. 20 K resistor
8. 1 or 2 IR LED's
9. Switch
10. NE555 Timer IC


Step 3: Finished Product

these are some picture of finished product how it look alike.

I an also adding the PCB layout for those who don't want use wires.

Last project in which this remote

Hope you like it.

Note : Output frequency of above circuit is about 35.2KHz. As per our experiment TSOP1738 is detecting it but you will get more range if you use exact 38KHz. You may also use 18K resistor instead of 20K which will produce 39KHz. Better you can try a preset for accurate 38KHz.

Step 4: Some Calculation

Since we are using this circuit in Astable mode and we need 38 khz then we have to use R1=1.025k , R2=18.47k and c1= 1nf or we can say 0.001uF. Since we can't get 18.47 k and 1.025 k resistor then we used here is 20k and 1 k resistor after using these resistor we get 35.188 khz. If we will use exact 18 K and 1 k resistors in the circuit it will give 38.992 khz. Since 5th pin is the Control Voltage pin which is not used in this application, hence it is grounded via a capacitor to avoid high frequency noises through that pin. C3=0.01uF will not going to effect on the calculation part. so you can remove it. It totally depends on you.

Step 5: What Next

Next:- Not decided yet

Previous:- Valentines Day:- DIY

<p>Hey, Can I change the sending values of this circuit. And I want to add more buttons.</p>
yes you can change the sending values and also add more buttons but for this you have to use a programmable chip like arduino
<p>hi</p><p>i will make it today ... but what will be this range</p><p>can u reply me url of ir reciever</p>
<p>For receiving I used TSOP 1738 IR receiver which has around 10mtr. Range.</p><p>http://www.micropik.com/PDF/tsop17xx.pdf</p>
<p>You've made some cool projects! Keep it up!</p>
I'm not sure if I under stand this or not but with this would I b about to make a dimmer or even a switch if I get a receiver and enter the right code? BTW I'm a rookie at a lot of this
<p>I'm not sure about making a dimmer but you can use it as a switch as i did it in my previous project. I used it to switch ON/OFF for a tube light or any home appliances which works on 220V. Visit here:-</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/IR-Remote-Control-Switch/">https://www.instructables.com/id/IR-Remote-Control-Switch/</a></p>
<p> sandy 65 i did all the things tight so why not my circuit is working</p>
<p>Glad you made it. But check your circuit once again.</p>
<p>thanks for your advice and now it's working .Great circuit dude</p>
<p>I am happy by listening this. thanks.</p>
<p>It's working for me and I am using it from 1 month</p>
<p>Seems that your schematic was &quot;wrong&quot;, so here's an update ;)</p>
Can you do one on a dimmer that shows a digital speed selection number for 110v ac motor
<p>Do one what? 8-/</p><p>Not really sure what you're asking (always read your text, or get a friend to read it, before sending)</p>
And 1 More thing why don't you just check my another project on 555 timer IC. I think you will understand the difference of this circuit and that circuit.
<p>Ya, But I can make a dimmer circuit for DC motor of voltage 0-12V. But I will let you know that you can make it for 110V AC motor. First I have to study about the dimmer.</p><p>But you can switch ON/OFF your FAN with it</p>
<p>Did you really did that.. but nice joke bro.. After all photo editing I think you learnt something from my project.</p>
<blockquote>Did you really did that</blockquote><p>Did you really ask that? ;)</p><blockquote>After all photo editing I think you learnt something from my project.</blockquote><p>Don't worry, it was just a few minutes, but yes, I learned that obsessive placement of a clothes patch is really distracting and doesn't help at all.</p><p>Then I actually looked at your schematic... And learned that it's possible to make an error for every 2 components used.</p><blockquote>The 100&mu;F capacitor (C1) is used to reduce ripples in the power supply.</blockquote><p>Why do you wanna do that and how did you select that value?</p><blockquote>5th pin is the Control Voltage pin which is not used in this <br>application, hence it is grounded via a capacitor to avoid high <br>frequency noises through that pin.</blockquote><p>Why do you wanna do that?</p><p>How did you select the value of R3 (and why not put it in the parts list)?</p><p>Do you honestly believe that the poor 555 will put out 250..300mA @9V?</p><p>You didn't mention using high power IR-LED(s) (guess you meant 1 to 2 IR-LEDs, rather than half a LED as you wrote), how much current do you think an average IR-LED can handle?</p><p>Given the frequency of a 555 is (ln(2) x (R1+2 x R2) x C)^-1, your 38kHz is actually 35.2kHz, which means that the range is roughly halved - What changes will it take to get the frequency right?</p><p>If you go read the datasheet of the 555 and that of the IR-LED you used and then try to answer the questions I put forward, there's a good chance that you might learn a thing or two!</p><p>Oh, BTW. the TSOP1738 that you want to use at the receiving end is not made for CW</p><p>Quoting from the datasheet:</p><blockquote>Some examples for such disturbance <strong>signals which<br>are suppressed</strong> by the TSOP17.. are:<br>&bull; DC light (e.g. from tungsten bulb or sunlight)<br>&bull; <strong>Continuous</strong> signal at 38kHz or at any other<br>frequency<br>&bull; Signals from fluorescent lamps with electronic<br>ballast (an example of the signal modulation is in the<br>figure below).</blockquote><p>Special IR receivers exists for CW (like e.g. TSSP4038).</p><p>To use TSOP17nn, the signal should be modulated like this:</p><p>Again from datasheet</p><blockquote>The data signal should fullfill the following condition:<br>&bull; Carrier frequency should be close to center<br>frequency of the bandpass (e.g. 38kHz).<br>&bull; Burst length should be 10 cycles/burst or longer.<br>&bull; After each burst which is between 10 cycles and 70<br>cycles <strong>a gap time of at least 14 cycles is neccessary.</strong><br>&bull; For each burst which is <strong> longer than 1.8ms</strong> a<br>corresponding gap time is necessary at some time in<br>the data stream. <strong>This gap time should have at least<br>same length as the burst.</strong><br>&bull; Up to 1400 <strong>short bursts</strong> per second can be received<br>continuously.</blockquote><p> The effect of this is, that a continuous signal lasting more than 1.84ms is considered noise, and makes the receiver turn its sensitivity more and more down, until it sees a break and that means a <strong>serious loss of range</strong> (which is up to 35m when used correctly). Add to that, the wrong frequency that steals around half the signal in the first place and I begin to wonder if that's the reason that you torture both the LED and the 555?!</p>
<p>Wooo.. Feeling great.. I have some one who can discuss on it.</p><p>Answering to your all questions one by one;-</p><p>1&gt; Why do you wanna do that and how did you select that value?</p><p>A&gt; I selected 100uF capacitor because I used a low voltage battery and a new battery with 100uF will be not effecting any thing. I selected this value because capacitors are also useful to store the power.</p><p>2&gt;Why do you wanna do that?</p><p>A&gt; I did that because 5th pin is the Control Voltage and it produce high </p><p>frequency noise.</p><p>3&gt; How did you select the value of R3 (and why not put it in the parts list)?</p><p>A&gt; It's very simple If you place a LED on 9V battery and frequently remove It than notngi is going to happen but if you wait for &lt;5 sec than your LED will be damage. NE555 timer gives a voltage and frequently change it ( It's totally depend on R2 and C1) thats why it not going to damage the IR LED. I used 22Ohms just for precaution.</p><p>That's my mistake, I forgot to add it in Parts list.</p><p>4&gt;Do you honestly believe that the poor 555 will put out 250..300mA @9V?</p><p>A&gt; I don't need 250-300mA. i just need 20-40mA and it will definitely producing. </p><p>5&gt;You didn't mention using high power IR-LED(s) (guess you meant 1 to 2 IR-LEDs, rather than half a LED as you wrote), how much current do you think an average IR-LED can handle?</p><p>A&gt; It's not half It is 1 or 2 you can see my images there I used 2 IR LED.</p><p>I don't know how much current can be handled by IR Led's but not more thsn 50mA(I THINK).</p><p>6&gt;Given the frequency of a 555 is (ln(2) x (R1+2 x R2) x C)^-1, your 38kHz is actually 35.2kHz, which means that the range is roughly halved - What changes will it take to get the frequency right?</p><p>A&gt; You are correct mine frequency is actually 35.2kHz. TSOP1738 is detecting it but if you use exact 38KHz than you will get more range. you can use 18K resistor instead of 20K which will produce 39KHz. Better you can try a preset for accurate 38KHz because you can't get 18K resistor.</p><p>7&gt;Oh, BTW. the TSOP1738 that you want to use at the receiving end is not made for CW</p><p>A&gt;can't get you on CW. Sorry. Let me tell you from your point &quot; Continuous signal at 38kHz or at any other frequency &quot;.</p><p>8&gt; Special IR receivers exists for CW (like e.g. TSSP4038). </p><p>A&gt; We are nor doing project with arduino or any thing else a simple IR receiving LED will work for it.</p><p> 9&gt; To use TSOP17nn, the signal should be modulated like this:</p><p>Again from datasheet</p><p>A&gt;Answer of this question is same of Question 8</p><p>10&gt;The effect of this is, that a continuous signal lasting more than 1.84ms is considered noise, and makes the receiver turn its sensitivity more and more down, until it sees a break and that means a serious loss of range(which is up to 35m when used correctly). Add to that, the wrong frequency that steals around half the signal in the first place and I begin to wonder if that's the reason that you torture both the LED and the 555?! </p><p>A&gt;you are correct but when you press the key and release it frequently the IR LED's are glowing and got shut. and The IR receiver got a signal that's is the only aim of this project.</p><p>I am using both the circuits from 1 months and they are performing well as I expect with them. After testing so many circuit and component in this I finally selected this circuit diagram.</p><p><br>Thanks for asking me.</p><p>I think you just good in creativity, but I was wrong.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I was trying to establish whether you had tried to calculate the needed size of the capacitor, but then you'd have either calculated from the internal resistance of a semi-flat battery (and placed the cap before the switch), or calculated in relation to the current surges - I_draw vs. the available recharge time and allowed voltage drop (yielding a larger value), but the thing is, that if you get the current under control, you don't need it (unless you're trying to run on a flat battery). A 9V (PP3/6LR61/Transistor battery) is below 2 Ohm when fresh, but as it becomes exhausted, it grows to 50..100 Ohm. For the fresh battery, it won't matter as you say, but with 50 Ohm of internal resistance it means that nothing happens for around 1.5ms (as the cap needs to charge to a voltage where the 555 will start) 1.5ms more and the output current is 100mA and in about 9ms from power is applied (button pressed) the LED will see 250mA. I doubt that you can keep a button press under 3ms ;)</p><p>Yes, pin 5 of a 555 is called &quot;control voltage&quot; and can be used for modulation and such, but it's just a tap into the node between the first and the second 5k resistor (from positive supply to ground, there is 3 in the chain, guess how the chip got its name). This pin does not produce noise, nor anything else. You need to decouple this pin <strong>if the application calls for it</strong>, to avoid current surges on the output affecting timing. In your circuit it shouldn't be needed.(with output current brought to sensible standards).</p><p>R3 is indeed very simple, but your optimistic outlook on the stamina of an LED makes it much less so. For starters, you damage the LED, even if you don't kill it immediately. LEDs are current driven and say your LED can run safely on 50mA with around 50% duty cycle, you need a resistor that can limit the peak current to that number. Worst case, this is driven by 9V, the 555 cannot swing higher than around 8.5V max. (@50mA) and the voltage drop of an IR-LED is around 1.5V, leaving roughly 7V for R3 (or ~5.5V if 2 series connected LEDs are used).</p><p>7V/0.05A =140 Ohm (5.5V/0.05A = 110 Ohm), so R3 could be e.g. 150 Ohm for 47mA or 120 Ohm for 58mA - simple as that.</p><p>If your C1 was spot on, you could just add 220kOhm in parallel with R2, that would be less than 1% tolerance. Unfortunately, I have never seen a 1nF cap that was actually 1nF, so to be sure, yes you'd need to add a trimmer, say a 5k trimmer in series with a resistor of 15k. But adding the 220k over the 20k would bring you much closer than as is and it's a cheap addition.</p><p>CW is a common term for &quot;Continuous Wave&quot;, which is what your 555 puts out.</p><p>I'm not saying that it cannot work at all, just that:</p><p>The output of the 555 is overloaded.</p><p>The LED is over-driven.</p><p>The range is dramatically reduced.</p><p>Please try to add the correct value for R3 and then test.</p><p>Then try removing C3 and test again.</p><p>Finally, try removing C2 or at least change it to a much smaller value, say 5..10&micro;F tops and test again.</p><p>Worst that could happen is that you learn something :)</p><p>Have a nice day :)</p>
thanks for you advice, till now i made 6 circuits on these principle and this is the best circuit which has 10+meter range and suitable for my IR Remote control Switch. I used this to get the hax code on arduino but every time it gives different code because of its fluctuations in frequency. And this is very help full for me. If you are saying to remove component one by one and check whether it is working or not than I just want to tell you that you can make this project by just using IR LED, 100Ohm resistor 5v supply and a momentary switch as I am showing in this pic. <br><br>Let me tell you when I checked the voltage across the LED then a constant 1.87V is found. I tested it for 3-4 min. and LED is not producing any kind of heat.<br><br>you can remove capacitor of 5th pin it will not effect any major part which you are taking about. even you can remove 100uf because you are going to use a DC constant voltage(new battery ).as i told you earlier i am using an old battery and it is just to maintain precautions.<br><br><br>when you Google the input voltage of NE 555 Timer then you will get it can take minimum 4.5V and maximum 16V. and it is specified for operation between +5 volts and&nbsp;+ 15 volts. <br><br>I used 2 IR LEDs and 22Ohms is working fine for me. <br><br>I have a suggestion for you why don't you make one and tell me where I can improve my circuit. And just put both the LEDs in series. I used 2 to cover more area. Its releasing 2 beam instead of only one. And my current battery power is fluctuateing near 8.47 and going down.
<p>:DDD You made my day! By the way nice Instructable Sandy65.</p>
<p>thanks a lot dude.</p>
Thanks it really help me alot
thanks for appreciation..
I'm sorry I'm learning and don't know a lot of terminology. I Would like a schematic for a modular switch to control the speed of a 110v motor, speed selection by button and ir with digital display 1-7 or 1-10 if some one could me please<br>
It can help me a lot
Can't get you. could you please send some pic of 110 volt AC motor. and which type of Dimmer you want.

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