This is mainly about crafting already available materials into a handy knitter. Your only limited by your imagination, truly fits this situation. I added an additional feature making the peg (nails in this case) removable so you can add or subtract pegs as needed.
I will add more content as I try various things with my knitter.
Discussions on Craftcycle Natural Crafting. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Craftcycle-NaturalCrafts
Step 1: Letters Make Nifty Looms
Step 2: Measuring Up Your Project
Measure once and then again as when working this close, it doesn't matter when using every other peg (3/8ths in apart ) for larger yarn the difference is not noticed as much but I did get one hole drilled too close to another, and it makes a slight change in the closeness of those two stitches coming off that peg. I have a size 8 foot. You may need more pegs for a larger foot.
The thickness of the letter gives enough room to figure in how many 8ths you need at 3/8ths between every other peg and get your diameter around the ring. and then remeasure in between to make sure your 3/16ths are equally distant apart. Some find that a compass with a pencil or a sharp pair of points (see photo) are good for fine work.
I just jumped in and marked off the points but next time I will be more careful. For an average adult size foot, I found that you need to have at least 14.5 inches circumference round for your peg points. (minimum) I ended up with a total of 74 holes, but started out only useing38(every other one, and then added a few pegs on the corners to get me up to 40 (make turning the heel easier on closer pegs) for the correct width starting at the toe. (14.5 inches is equal to 116 - 8ths I somehow came up with 114. 38x 3-8ths, because my corners were not spaced evenly apart in measuring, but I had enough pegs to get through the project. I did gradually add pegs for the heel turning and then spaced in between every other empty hole. Then gradually worked up to all but 8holes with a peg. Also when increasing the number of pegs for the heel, I did decrease a few for the ankle and then replace the every other peg to start on the calf. (Photos of the sock included in next few steps)
I will add more photos and info when I try out the other letter shapes.
Step 3: Yarn Onto Your Loom
Step 4: Making a Fine Wool Sock
Step 5: The Sock
The first photo is to show the extra thickness of the heel, (the toe area is not done yet. My next pair of socks I will start with the top of the sock and work down as closing the tow is easier than taking the end off and then turning a cuff. (Like making a brim for a hat.)
The (2) second photo shows how the sock was expanded just using extra pegs adding one to every other empty peg to space them out. The (3) third photo is so you can better see the knitting and that I have pegs in most of the holes ending near the top. I saved some dark brown to finish the toe. I can just sew the toe closed, but if its a bit tight, I am going to crochet more onto the end with the matching yarn. (More photos to come)
Step 6: Finishing the Length
I finished off the top by lifting the individual loops off the pegs to crochet them together. Lifting the first loop with the loom hook enough to put through the crochet hook. Then catch the yarn and pulling it through (yarn over) pick up the next loop with a second hook and grab the loop from the first hook and put it through. This way there is a new loop between each of the loom loops and the sock will not be too tight to fit around my knee calf. I left the very last stitch not attached around to the first till I saw how it fit.
Some loomers just wrap their tie off yarn around the loops and pull it through as they go, but I wanted to create some stretchiness to the end of the knit.
Step 7: The Final Finish for the Sock
The first row of crochet stitches is attached around and make sure it's not too tight. Then when reaching the first crochet loop, insert crochet hook into the middle of the first loop and under the side facing towards the outside of the sock. This pulls the loops in and looking more like knit loops than crochet. Also it made the surface smooth.
Make sure that the heel is centered when you flatten your sock and then when you get to each side, just skip one stitch to the next for decreasing (since were working tiny here) instead of the usual of drawing two stitches together. The narrowing curve had a nice even row on top, When I ran out of yarn, there was a row of loops sitting flat across the top.
Next, I took the 6inch red yarn that was left hanging near the toe as I started looping where the dark brown yarn started on the spool instead of using the small bit in the loom, decided to keep it for pulling the end of the sock closed. As shown in the bottom of the first photo; I looped the red yarn back and forth through the outer loops once again and it gave the toe of the sock a nice flat smooth look. It even turned out nice and smooth on the inside where lumps next to toes can ruin a sock for comfort.
One last final try on of the sock confirmed that it was the right size for my foot between the toes and heel. The whole sock fit like a glove.