Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Since my day job is making jewelry I figured I'd show a few engagement rings I've made. These are entirely hand made from Platinum.
The first ring was an especially challenging job as the opening in the the side of the ring is only 8mm wide. The vine sections are made from fourteen separate Platinum pieces. Platinum wire that is .07mm thick (about .003 inch) is used for the vines and the leaves were cut from Platinum sheet, hand engraved and welded to the vine sections. The assembled vine sections were then inserted into the 8mm wide opening and then welded into place from the back side. It's a very small ring- to put in in perspective the side stones on the top of the ring are 1mm in diameter.
The next two rings are entirely made from Platinum sheet and wire- no castings were used and there are over forty soldered joints in each ring. To make rings like these I start with the center head by forming the prongs and gallery wires, bending them to shape and joining them together. The prongs and gallery wires for the side stones are then added, paying close attention to the stone spacing. The ring shank is then hand forged, shaped and attached to the head assembly. The ring is then pre polished and the stones are set and then the detail work/hand engraving is done, followed by the final polish.
One of my happiest moments at work was when a woman picked up her custom ring and turned to her little girl and said "One day this will be yours."
The first ring was an especially challenging job as the opening in the the side of the ring is only 8mm wide. The vine sections are made from fourteen separate Platinum pieces. Platinum wire that is .07mm thick (about .003 inch) is used for the vines and the leaves were cut from Platinum sheet, hand engraved and welded to the vine sections. The assembled vine sections were then inserted into the 8mm wide opening and then welded into place from the back side. It's a very small ring- to put in in perspective the side stones on the top of the ring are 1mm in diameter.
The next two rings are entirely made from Platinum sheet and wire- no castings were used and there are over forty soldered joints in each ring. To make rings like these I start with the center head by forming the prongs and gallery wires, bending them to shape and joining them together. The prongs and gallery wires for the side stones are then added, paying close attention to the stone spacing. The ring shank is then hand forged, shaped and attached to the head assembly. The ring is then pre polished and the stones are set and then the detail work/hand engraving is done, followed by the final polish.
One of my happiest moments at work was when a woman picked up her custom ring and turned to her little girl and said "One day this will be yours."
I've hopefully got a really neat custom job coming in the future that I'll be able to fully document for a step by step instructable. Usually my work schedule doesn't allow me to document the jewelry making process as the delivery timelines are so short but I've been pushing my boss to let me document more work for the future.
It would be cool if you could do a step by step. Meanwhile, your work is beautiful.
My favorite:
http://img.instructables.com/files/deriv/FXA/PXRH/GLWR1SSZ/FXAPXRHGLWR1SSZ.THUMB.jpg
Either the case, I just want to say, AWESOME WORK!
that ring looks amazing. you are definitely talented.
http://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Concepts-Technology-Oppi-Untracht/dp/0385041853/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1301887553&sr=1-1
The Complete Metalsmith is also a good inexpensive book-
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Metalsmith-Illustrated-Handbook/dp/B000N0TBJ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1301888567&sr=8-2
Jewelry: Concepts and Technology is probably one of the most comprehensive books there is on jewelry manufacturing. I'd also check into local community college classes and see if there's something available. Really the best way to learn about making jewelry is just to do it.
When I first started making jewelry I had an old bookcase I attached a small table top to and used that as a bench in my apartment. I had very basic hand tools and a small propane torch and that was pretty much it. I worked mostly in silver and inexpensive stones.
The best advice I can give is to buy just the very basic tools (saw, files, torch) and master them. The key to being a good fabricator is learning how to master the control of heat with the torch.
Start with simple stone settings (round prong set and bezel settings) and practice using CZ (Cubic Zirconia) to keep cost down until you're ready to move onto more complicated/expensive stuff.
If you have any other questions just let me know!
thanks for sharing
http://www.newapproachschool.com/
Honus you do some amazing work, I am so glad I followed the link you posted for Scoochmaroo, otherwise I wouldn't have seen them.
5 of 5 again, I truly admire your craftsmanship
On a side note, the detail in the shoulders and colets on that ring is incredible!
I started making jewelry on the side when I worked in the bicycle industry and I began selling my work in a small gallery within a year. Within two years I was working as a jeweler full time in a retail store and I've now been at it thirteen years and I learn new things all the time.
A lot of it depends on whether or not you have the aptitude and dexterity required. One of the big things in working in a retail environment is that you have to be pretty quick too. I usually say three weeks for a full custom job but that is dependent on what the work load is. The rings in the photos probably have around two to three days of solid work in them but they are fairly complex rings to make. The average custom ring I make probably has six to eight hours in it.
. What do you alloy the Pt with? What do you use for melting/welding the Pt alloy?