I've made 2 more flipbooks and learned some more during the process that I want to share with those of you who might like to try this. I'm also including 2 short 10 second videos (mpeg-4) of the final 2 flipbooks.

Original Flipbook: https://www.instructables.com/id/Handmade_Flipbook/

Step 1: Create Your Single Images

Nothing much changed in how I obtained the individual frames from the video - please see my other instructable ( https://www.instructables.com/id/Handmade_Flipbook/ ) for how this was done.

(I'm also testing out some free software to do the video frame grabs and create the individual framed images shown here. As soon as I find some that works, I'll post another instructable showing you how to use it.)

Just a summary: I used Pinnacle 12 to grab individual frames from a 3.5 seconds worth of video. I've found that a once inch tall stack of images is about 90-100 pictures - anything thicker than 1 inch and the flip effect just isn't that great unless you get really good at sliding your thumb back as you flip... experimentation seems to indicate a stack no thicker than the length measured from the tip of your thumb to the first joint works best.

After grabbing the individual frames, the first time-consuming portion starts - pulling each image into my graphics software (I use Flash to take advantage of layers, but you might also look at Inkscape - free OpenSource software that supports layers and exports to JPEG). When done, you'll have a large collection like this...

Printers have sharp tubular drills that will penetrate inches of paper (think phone book.)&nbsp;They also have a device called a guillotine cutter which is a large, vertical acting knife blade that can trim inches of paper (think phone book also) Check your local print shop to see if these are available - the cost will be small and the results very good. <br /> <br /> On some flip book Instructables commenters suggested tapering the width, narrow to wide from front to back. At the printers, this can be done with the cutter by shifting the images at an angle and then trimming the right hand edge. Try it with cheap paper cards first to see if it works right for you. <br />
I just finished doing this style of project myself (http://www.teamwalrus.com/wordpress/?p=1383). I couldn't find any software that does the extract of frames, resize, etc all in one go. But I did find three free software programs that do everything you need: 'Free video to JPG converter', 'Faststone Resizer', 'XnView'. Instructions on my blog.<br/>
Great examples - thanks for sending! I've been playing with VirtualDub - might want to check it out and see if you can get it to do what you need.
Looks a little thick, maybe find some ultra-thin photo paper?
Actually, the thickness helps it flip better in my opinion. Book 1 is 94 photos, Book 2 and 3 are 90 photos. All 3 books are about 1 inch in diameter and the thickness of the leather helps the screws stay tight and in place. I tried one book using regular paper (color inkjet printing) and the paper too easily crinkled or entire sections would flip causing the animation to jump. The thick photo paper works great for me. Gives it a nice "flap" sound, too :)
jktechwriter I noticed that on the left edge of your pictures looked a little different. Is it the border that I've heard you talk about or is the material different? Thanks.
Hmm... not sure what you mean. Can you point me to the picture(s) in question? In one stack you might have noticed a small white vertical strip between the black left edge border and the picture - that was because that video was not filmed in widescreen but standard 4:3 format - so I had to "push" the frames more to the right so they would be visible and this caused the white strip to appear - but it's covered by the leather, so I wasn't worried.
jktechwriter I think that is what I am looking at. The white stripe give the impression that the photo material is thicker toward the leather and screw side. Thanks for the detail.
You're welcome - yes, I guess I could see now what you're talking about. But nope - the entire stack is nothing but standard 4x6 photos cut down to size - I've just left the left-side black frame and a small white strip that bordered the entire photo. Remember to go matte and not glossy! I'd love to see one of your final designs if you'll message me when you're done - good luck.
Understood, you will be one of the first I show. Look toward the 1st quarter of '09. Thanks again for all the help. Ron
ah, you can make it thinner by reducing the frame rate
But reducing the frame rate gives you a more choppy animation... I also pulled out every other frame (using frame 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, etc.) but it too was a little choppy. I'm sticking with my 30fps and about 3-4 seconds of images :)
This is regarding your software question at the end of the instructable.<br/><br/>I would use virtual dub to export the frames (ww.virtualdub.org). Just open up your video in virtual dub and you can hit file&gt;export&gt;image sequence. Export as a targa file. (Targa is the best format for processing in the next step, but if you dont have photoshop just export as a jpg.)<br/><br/>Now, open photoshop and then open one of your frames of video. Create an action. (http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/03/07/how-to-create-photoshop-actions/) Click on image&gt;canvas size. Use canvas size to add the borders on your image.<br/>Now in photoshop go to file&gt;automate&gt;batch. In the play section select the action you just created. In the source section select &quot;folder&quot; then click &quot;choose&quot; and select the folder you exported the targa files to. Then in the destination section select folder as the destination and choose another folder (not the folder that is full of your targa files). Click ok and that will add borders to all of your images. You will have to add numbers by hand or find some other way to number your images.<br/><br/>Now we need to convert the targa files to jpg. I would use irfanview (www.irfanview.com). Open irfanview. Click file&gt;batch conversion/rename. Make sure batch conversion is checked in the top left corner. Browse to the folder with your targa files with borders and click the &quot;add all&quot; button. In the &quot;batch conversion settings&quot; box select jpg. Now select a folder in the &quot;output directory for result files&quot; (not either of the folders full of targa files). Click start batch and it will process all of your files.<br/><br/>You should end up with a folder full of jpgs with bordes.<br/>
I downloaded and tried the software - works great BUT... it only grabs frames in one size... I can't seem to figure out how to resize the frame grabs. When you embed the frames in the layering software, the images are too small and when they're enlarged, they get pixel-ly.
You can use virtualdub to resize the output images. Click on video>filter. Then click on add. Find resize in the list click on it and hit ok. Set the size you want. (I suggest opening one of the images from your previous flipbooks and seeing what resolution they are then entering those numbers in the "absolute (pixels)" area.) Click ok. Then click ok again to close the filters window. Export the images like before. Note that this will take some amount of time longer than not using the filter. If the images still look pixeley in the resize options in the drop down box for "filter mode" try selecting "lanczos3".
Once again - thank you! It is very time consuming to grab individual frames so if this works, it'll save me a bundle of time. I don't have Photoshop so now I'm looking for a piece of software that will allow me to create the frame that will cover part of the frame grab, allow me to batch frame, and then batch export to JPEG. If I can find something like that, add it to the virtualdub process, the cutting will be the longest part. Thanks, gregr. Jim
THANK YOU! Yesterday I figured out how to quickly import all the single JPEG files and frame them all at once (instead of individually). This alone will save me probably 30 minutes to 1 hour. If virtualdub.org will handle the creation of each individual frame (as opposed to me having to use Pinnacle to grab each individual frame and save them to a file) that will save probably an hour... I don't have photoshop but since I can now import all JPEG files and frame at once, this means that cutting will be the biggest time consumer and I can live with that... THANK YOU, again! I'll let you know how it works - will try to make a new flipbook this weekend or early next week. Jim
Cool! Thanks
Instead of drilling, you might try using a piece of gauze and rubber cement along the edge, perphaps with a paper cover. It may not be as elegant, but it would be easier!
I might try that sometime... but I like the look of the leather and brass screws and it's not that much extra work to drill - I think gluing would be more troublesome as the flipbook aged - maybe not.

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