I used 0-1 steel, this requires a trip to the kiln to heat treat it. My dad told me that the atmosphere in the kiln will more than likely create a lot of scale (crappy nasty surface stuff) the way he takes care of this is to wrap his knives in steel foil and seal it up nice and tight.

I’m not sure of the temperature needed, but dad taught me a little trick; when the knife gets nice and hot, stick a magnet to it, if it doesn’t stick your good to go. This happens because all the molecules in the knife have gone to a semi liquid state that allows them to drift out of alignment, something needed for magnetization. So after about 15 minutes in the kiln and checking it twice with the magnet we were ready to quench it.

To quench the knife you submerge it tip first into room temperature oil, vegetable oil in our case. This hardens the outside into a super hard shell while the inside stays a little more flexible. You have to do it quick so we held it over the oil and pretty much snipped the tip of the foil and it slid right in. you can jimmy it around in the oil a little bit till it cools down. Once that happens it’s into the over for an hour at 400 degrees. This step takes some of the brittle nature out of the steel, keeps it from snapping in half when you hit something hard.
It looks really great!
Could you post something on making a kiln? The heat-treating part of knife making has always been a problem of mine.
there should be a few instructables on here on how to make a kiln and there's a lot online. this one was made from a scrap kiln that was found on craigslist. it didn't work, but the bricks were still good. they were stacked up to form a long tunnel(one end sealed up, the other open) with one of the bricks on the bottom cut to allow the flame to enter. everything was held together tightly by a box made out of tin sheeting. our fire came from a turkey fryer and a propane tank. if you want to make a smaller knife you can always make a small kiln by just stacking the bricks up around it and using a blowtorch. it will be some time before i could do an instructable on that so i hope this helps. what issues were you having with the heat treating? was it just a lack of kiln?
Yeah, it was mostly because I didn't have a kiln. So far, all that has happened when I try to heat treat is part of the blade gets to the right temp and then when I try to heat the what's left, the first part cools down. Of course, I'm just using an old (think 30+ years old) propane torch, so that must be a big part of the problem. <br> <br>I'll poke around and see what I can see. <br> <br>Thanks for the help, <br>black hole.
yeah i would look into getting some kind of high heat insulation. its kind of a cheap way out but if you cant find any fire brick, you could always get a bunch of torches, buy a pizza, and have some friends over to help lol
Thanks ; )
this thing took out my urls <br> so add the <br>. <br><br>for DOT and ad the W's to see the holster<br><br>tandyleatherfactory DOT com/search/searchresults/44451-01.aspx<br><br>do the same for the sheath kit<br>tandyleatherfactory DOT com/home/44123-00.aspx<br><br><br>
SWEET.<br><br>I would make wooden grips for it, or bone (or bone over mahogany or a fine grained dark wood). Your dad taught you well cause this is a beaut!! Deserves a fine sheath or scabbard. For scabbard use wood core and thin leather then outside leather and belt loop (I like a safety belt loop, to keep knife in when walking).<br><br>again a very very very sweet piece of metal craftwork. <br><br>
Thank you, its much appreciated. I agree with the wood handle, when i came up with the design i thought wood would be great, but i havent quite gotten the hang of the wood working yet and the leather, well its hard work. my dad cuts and stitches all his leather work for the sheaths by hand and can take forever to get it right. its been a while since i posted this, but maybe i will try to make a sheath instructable for it.
heck if this is an old post and you do not have a sream of &quot;WOW can I have one too!!!&quot; then the instructables robot is not doing his job. Your machining was a masterful manipulation of steel. I am not a collector, nor an iron monger/blacksmith. I have made two knives a spoon gouge and a couple of scribes for bone work. I carve when possible and make walking sticks. I am a Boy Scout merit badge counselor for wood carving and leather badge. Simple sheaths are easy and Tandy Leather Craft sells nice kits. <br><br><br><br>Forget the tooling it is harder then it looks. I modified a kit sorta like this<br><br><br><br>for a leftie shooter, all the guys at the range loved it. I made it simple for him, I only put his intials on it and then made it totally black (was ehh to me), he loved it.<br><br><br>Two thin pieces of mahogany or maybe ebony , full lenght and two bone inserts even if you just put fancy initials and maybe a cross hatch (knurled?) look would be incredible.<br><br>Another , perhaps simpler thing would be same wood then you cut a border with a U gouge around the perimeters and epoxy in a copper or brass wire, (think black ink drawing then you fill in color, like a kids coloring book), if you use yellow bronze wire it will stand off more.<br><br>as far as sheaths go a nice one can be made with old leather from a couch and wooden paint stirring sticks, very thing (delaminated) wood paneling. I made one for a scout who made a knife. It was a scabbard since it had a hard sided case covered in whatever I had (bone color, stained sorta brown). It had a curved blade as well and it6 needed to &quot;slide&quot; around the pivot, with out slicing open the sheath. Ergo the paint stick frame. The wood frame, ( a real thick separator piece think washer) was strong enough to withstand removal and insertions. Leather good leather is hard to get nowadays. If you can find a real cobbler (shoemaker), buy heavy duty replacement soles (full sized for size 12. use them for sheaths and attach a belt loop, simple loop stiching is fine but secure it at least two place with rivets.<br><br>finally if you make it leather lined, leave suede side to the blade and before gluing/sewing rivetting, rub in generous amount of polishing compound where ever the knife can be. Then any rubbing is a buffing. If they make other compounds that are better in absorbing water or O2 use that.<br><br>I wish I had taken pics as I did that. <br><br>ciao
I like your knife a lot. Thanks for the detailed instructions. I want to make one and hand carve a handle. Luckily, my sister owns a kiln for her glassworks ;)<br><br>What recommendation do you have for wood. And where can I get steel blanks like what you have? It's tempting to cut up a lawnmower blade.
well, you Could cut up a lawnmower blade, its been done. its pretty popular to use old leaf springs from junk yard cars and trucks cause they will hold an edge really well and the have good flex. the best place i can recommend online would have to be www.alphaknifesupply.com they have some great wood and knife blanks on there, you just need to look around for something you like and in your price range. i used 1/8th inch thick 01 steel for mine. you can go thicker if your doing a survival knife so you have no problem chopping down a tree or cutting through bone. oh and when you look for wood, its not much of a price difference but i would look for stabilized wood, doesn't suck up much moisture and no shrinking over time, its good stuff. <br>
Gedian. Thanks for the great tips. I think you're right about the blade blanks. It's a lot of trouble to make a knife to have it mess up due to recycling old parts probably doesn't make sense. I'll also look into that stabilized wood.
sweet, be sure to post pictures of whatever you make. would love to see what you do.
Very Nice and great job. I really like the shape but love the simplicity of the handle. I thought of a way to rap the handle with one piece of cord . If you thread the cord threw the second hole first and down to the first hole second, hope that made sense? Then rap the handle you don't have to tie the start ends in and if you ever need to use the cord you will have a nice long piece. Keep up the good work. JIM.
Thanks, awesome idea. i will have to try that out on the next one.
Very Nice indeed I'm starting out some knife making myself. <br><br>We must admit that having all the needed tools like the sander and the kiln is a hell of a head start since those are very expensive and uncommon tools to have.<br>So far so good!!<br> Keep it up and post your next productions !!
thanks. my dad was lucky enough to find a studio kiln on line that someone was giving away. all the electronics were ripped out so he build his own out of the bricks. the sander on the other hand can be a little expensive. im sure all the shaping can be done with a bench grinder, it would just take a little longer.
one thing i learned from grinding with the belt grinder is to sand a notch into wood that you want to use to hold the metal
cool ... nice knife

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