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Ok, guys, so I like hammocks. A lot. You should know this from my other instructable. For the last few years I've been sleeping in someone else's bed, which was cool, but I got kicked out and found myself sans bed. I've since been sleeping on my camping stuff in my own place. It's not so bad, it's a small room and a whole bed would take up way too much space anyway, the camping stuff I can fold out of the way futon-style. I like to imagine I'll have people hang out here sometime, and the extra space is/would be nice. Recently I thought about building a frame to hang my hammock in, since that would take up far less space than a bed and be way comfortable, but then the landlady gave me the go-ahead to hang it right from the walls. Nice! This afternoon I made these hangers and got my hammock all strung up. Here I'll show you what I did to achieve this without just screwing a big fat lag hook into the wall.

Step 1: Gather Materials

We're going to build a couple of wood plates with a hook on them, which we'll screw into the top plate and/or studs in a normal stick-framed wall. The reason for this is because I don't want to put a 5/8" hole in the wall, and it will give me the option of fastening this to two studs in the wall if I want to hang it lower.

First, do some homework. If you're into engineering like me, you should be able to estimate pretty well what kind of loads you'll be putting on these hooks and design accordingly. If you're not, or if you just like to play with online calculators, use this to see what you'll need for hook ratings (it's interesting to note that depending on how the hammock is hung, a 200 lb person can put over 1000 lbs of tension on the lines! Wow!) I found that lag hooks rated at 250 lbs would be sufficient for me.

You'll need:
2 lag hooks (you could also use eye-bolts, but you'll need something like a load-bearing carabiner to fasten the hammock to these)
2 pieces of 2x4 (or something similar) around 2 feet long
some 3.5" (or more) drywall screws
a snack (optional)
wood finish of your choice (also optional)
Probably also a hammock, and some tools. Something with which to cut your lumber, drive the screws into the wall, and drill pilot holes for your lag hooks (bonus points if you do it all with the same tool!)

Step 2: Prepare Lumber

We'll need to cut the 2x4s down to size and drill pilot holes.

Start by cutting the 2x4s down to size. Around 20" sounds good...

Then drill pilot holes for the lag hooks. Some of you might want to measure and make them perfectly centered, but I just eye-balled them. Don't drill them too big, or the threads won't grab. I used a bit just slightly smaller than the shaft of the hooks. You should do the same. I also did mine at an angle to be more co-linear with the force exerted by the hammock, and so that I could get more of the threads in contact with the wood.

Step 3: (optional) Dress Up the Lumber

I didn't want to just screw some boring 2x4s into the walls, even if they are "Top Choice" - it's time to get creative! I had some leftover wheatpaste from a school project (still in progress), and it's been forever since I've done any papier-mache (seriously, who didn't love  that stuff when they were a kid?!), so I decided to get down with some brown paper, coffee grounds, tea leaves, leaf leaves, and wheatpaste. Basically, I glued some compost pile onto the 2x4s. I think they turned out alright, you can put whatever you want on there. How about a paisley bandana or cool scrap-booking paper? Some flora from your locale? Or pictures of your cat, or of you camping in your hammock! Whatever, go nuts, it's your thing

Step 4: (also Optional) Wait for Stuff to Dry

If you painted, stained, lacquered, or wheatpasted your lumber you'll need to let it dry. Hey cool! It's a beautiful day, grab you snack (you have one, right?) and go chill in your hammock!

Step 5: Insert Lag Hooks, Install Hangers

Before you install your hangers (we're almost done! I promise!) you'll need to do some more figuring. Think about how high you'll want your hammock from the ground, and how far apart you want the ends of your hammock. You'll have to consider these two factors when you place your hangers, don't just stick them up on opposite sides of the room! They might end up being too far apart or too close together, or your hammock might hang too high for you to get in and out of comfortably. Having your hammock properly arranged with the right amount of sag will make the difference between the most comfort and less comfort.

So, do you have all that figured out? Got a good spot for your hangers? Good!  Screw your lag hooks into the hangers, making sure they don't stick all the way through the wood. Large pliers may be helpful here. Once everything looks good you're ready to screw in the hangers! I used about 6 or 7 screws per hanger, positioned up high so that the screws go into the top plate, or if you prefer, screw them into the studs. If you tap on your wall with a hammer you can feel where this is, or you can use a stud finder. Don't go overboard with the screws, too many will start to split and weaken the wood. Stagger them slightly if you can, rather than going in a row.

Step 6: Hang It Up!

Alright! You've made it this far, now sit back and enjoy your handiwork. Before you get all the way in your hammock, test it with your weight for a while to make sure nothing will break. I like to get underneath the hammock and hang like a sloth, just off the ground, so there's no great risk of falling too far. Once you're sure everything is copacetic go ahead and climb on in!

I realize this was kind of a quick and dirty project, and there are other ways of hanging your hammock indoors, but I wanted to share what I came up with. I didn't really want to get into suspension and hanging details, those are covered in my other hammock instructable and discussed ad nauseum at the Hammock Forums.I hope it helps! Thanks, and don't forget to share your thoughts in the comments below!

Also, thanks to the mass of people who helped get this thing featured! That's really cool, thanks guys! I'm glad you like it. Again, don't forget to vote for the laser challenge!
<p>is that a hiragana chart on your wall next to the hammock?</p>
Not OP, but as an avid Japanese learner and a guitar player... I'd have to say that looks more like a chord chart.
The amp in the room supports my theory.
<p>Very awesome! Can't wait to try!!!</p>
I love hammocks. I have one that you sit in from Mexico. It hangs from a single point. Any idea how to hang it in the middle of a room?
I went to Venezuela in 1991 with a group of kids in a camper exchange program... <br>Interestingly, all the hotel rooms we stayed in had metal anchor points for just this idea. (In addition to beds) I slept in a cotton hammock that I purchased there in the market for $20 USD. (It easily sleeps two, and I still use it to this day!) <br> <br>They were sort of a recessed metal box with a bar for tying or clipping into. (Obviously these were pro made by some company...) <br>Most of the rooms had provisions for at least two hammocks, if not more! <br> <br>Something I like about your design: It seems that if you were in a rental, that your setup would cause minimal damage. (Nothing that a touch of Spackle couldn't cure) <br> <br>Is this the case? <br> <br>Great idea, thanks!!
And another point of interest: <br>I worked at Lowe's for almost 10 years in the Tools and Hardware Departments... <br>Campbell (One of Lowe's suppliers for chain, cable, lag screws, etc.) intentionally leaves vast room for error in their &quot;Working Capacity&quot; limits, specifically for liability reasons. <br>Where one chain might say &quot;Max. 300 lbs&quot;, its breaking limit is actually somewhere around 1200lbs. <br>I'm not by any means encouraging people to test this theory; however I know what I know, and have always used a good dose of common sense... <br> <br>The style lags you use in this instructable, however, usually are rated much lower, because of their &quot;open nature&quot; (That is its much easier to bend it open further than it is to break the metal) <br> <br>But definitely not in your case. I'd if anything, it would pull out of the wood before opening up under the weight of say, a 200 lb. man jumping on the hammock... <br> <br>Again, thanks for the idea! I'm going to do this, for the next time our friends with five kids comes to visit!
Glad to hear that you'll give this a try, please let me know how it works out! <br><br>Yes, I'm renting a room so I wanted to use a few drywall screws rather than put a 5/8&quot; hole in the wall, but this design also distributes the load over a wider area. I did the math and figured I *probably* wouldn't be loading the hooks more than 250 lbs each, but I know that there's a safety factor figured into the ratings, so if I go a little over it won't break them. I'm actually more concerned about the screws failing in shear, but I'm trying to find more info on their capacities.
<p>Great simple solution for hanging a hammock indoors!</p><p>However, I would highly recommend using something like deck screws and not drywall screws to hang the mounting plates. Drywall screws are not intended to support large loads and can break fairly easily. A full sheet of drywall only weighs 50 lbs or less and is held up with 50+ drywall screws. </p>
Cool! <br> <br>About screw capacities: <br> <br>I was in a position a few years ago where I needed to hack off some DECK screws (2 1/2&quot;) that were sticking out of wood. I tried a hacksaw, and got nowhere. I pulled out the recip. saw, and I'll be darned if it didn't take almost a minute to cut each one. (and totally spent my blade) <br> <br>Turns out, the metal underneath the coating was gold-colored. Hardened, Grade-8 like metal! I investigated at work with a vendor, and here's the gist of what he said: <br> <br>The longer decking screws (say, 2&quot; and above) employ hardened steel to prevent shearing when driving that much screw into the wood. (ever try put a &quot;trash&quot; screw in wood with a drill, just to have the head &quot;twist&quot; right off?) <br> <br>Their diameters are generally slightly thicker, too. An 1 1/4&quot; drywall screw might measure 8 ga. in diameter, while longer deck screws can be 9, 10 or even bigger - even more resistance for shearing... <br> <br>So, if you're looking for some bomb-proof shear resistance, swap out what you have for 2 1/2&quot; deck screws. <br> <br>But personally, I think what you already have is more than sufficient!
While there are safety factors figured into load capacities, failure begins long before a breaking point is reached. The cables will deform and stretch before actually &quot;breaking&quot;. The capacities given are the maximum load without any failure. So, it's really a dumb idea to challenge those numbers..
These hooks are rated at safe working load, not at the failure limit or breaking point. At any rate, I'm not coming very close to the working load limit. As for the &quot;cables,&quot; they're actually dyneema (a trade name for ultra high molecular weight&nbsp;polyethylene&nbsp; and rated at 5400 lb breaking strength, with incredibly low stretch even at 20% of breaking strength. More information about this stuff, including the effects of splicing and knotting, can be found at the <a href="http://www.samsonrope.com/Pages/Product.aspx?ProductID=872" rel="nofollow">Sampson Rope webpage</a>.
You can see the hammock hooks for sale at MercadoLibre.com (Latin American eBay) linking to: http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ve/MLV-408767849-hamacas-juego-de-visagras-para-guindarlas-_JM
<p>Great to hear you are becoming an ME... I am a retired ME with 40+ years in the trade...</p>
<p>Great Idea, just beware, Continued use of an HAMMOCK, can make your Back M.D. a very happy &amp; Rich person as well. Correcting CURVERTURE OF THE SPINE, IS NOT CHEAP TO REPAIR. </p><p>However occasional use is perfectly fine. Good Luck</p>
<p>That's why you hang the hammock correctly and lay across it diagonally. Like a front sling for your arm, the diagonal about 30 degrees off is about flat if it's done correctly.</p><p>People in south/central American countries sleep in hammocks their whole lives without excessive problems, it's actually more comfortable and more correct support than most beds.</p>
<p>Actually, there is a special way to lay in hammocks that is just as comfortable, and will keep you back perfectly safe:</p><br>
Can this same method be used to hang a hanging chair from the ceiling? Thanks!
Thx for your instructable. It was a big source of inspiration! I used 3 inches bolts and the ring is rated for 400 pounds.<br><br>Thx a lot<br>If anyone have questions, feel free to ask !
I have been thinking of getting a hammock in my room, for space saving purposes. Are they really comfortable to sleep in? Any cons?
Hammocks are very comfortable to sleep in if you do it properly. If done improperly, you're asking for trouble. The proper way to sleep in a hammock is to lie diagonally rather than end to end. In this way you lie quite flat and be embraced by your hammock. I have slept in hammocks exclusively for many years and I'll continue to do so until infirmity lay me waste and ill health curse my every waking moment. FYI: While this is a nice instructable, there are a few things about it that I wouldn't recommend.
As someone with established hammock-experience, can you elaborate about what you wouldn't recommend?
Sure. The first few things that immediately jump out at me are: <br> <br>1. The lag hooks. <br> Why use them? Instead, for this setup I would recommend using an the equivalent strength lag eye screw. By doing so you eliminate the possibility of having your suspension slip off of the hook even if it bends. The only additional hardware needed to attach your suspension to the eye bolts are a couple of carabiners or nacrobiners (one for each end). <br> <br>2. Sleeping comfort in a hammock really is dependent upon two factors not mentioned in this instructable. Namely: Distance between anchor points and sag. <br> <br> If your anchor points (the points to which you attach your suspension) are too close together or too far apart your hammock will not hang properly and you will be uncomfortable. Twelve feet apart is a good general rule of thumb as it works well for most lengths of hammocks IF you equip your hammock with a ridge line, which leads me to my next next point. <br> <br> Sag can be controlled by using adjustable suspension lines and keeping a taut ridgeline. You want your hammock centered between your anchor points with your ridgeline taut. If you stand back and look at your hammock it should look like a big smile. <br> <br>3. Convection: Unless your room has a fairly consistent ambient temperature of at least 75 degrees, you need to consider convection. As the cooler air circulates beneath you it will sap your body heat and cause you to become quite cold during the night. This results in the need to get up and urinate frequently, etc. The solution is an underquilt which is hung beneath the hammock, not in it. This prevents your body weight from crushing it and reducing its insulative value. <br> <br>Considering all of the above, this hammock doesn't appear to be centered between anchor points, the foot end looks higher than the head end, the sag is off, there is no ridge line, and finally there is no under quilt. In my opinion I think this is a good start but as it stands this setup would make for a fairly restless nights sleep. <br> <br>
Good points! I should add some popular savvy here in Venezuela: re 2. It is certainly desirable to keep both hook at roughly the same height -- This is not always possible if using the hammock as a camping bed! Trees and other supports are not usually of &quot;standard&quot; height! For that we NEVER hang a hammock directly from the loops. We use a couple of doubled-up lines that allow adjustment; these go from the hang points to the hammock loops and secured with a knot that's difficult to describe but easy to tie AND untie! (I'll try to post some photos) In case it is difficult to adjust, lay diagonally as suggested with your head towards the high end. <br>re3. In Venezuela the popular saying is -- roughly translated -- &quot;The blanket is used UNDER you when using a hammock&quot; In my experience a common bed sheet is usually enough! <br>Another tip: NEVER use pillows in a hammock! They usually end in your lower back with the usual consequences!
<p>I've used a camping (ie about 12 inches long) pillow in my hammock btw - no issues :)</p>
<p>I am new to hammock sleeping...been doing it for a month or 2 now. I have a knee swollen from an MCL injury and do find that the pillow I use under my knee doesn't move much. Also related to that injury, I sleep with my head toward the low end to help raise my knee. My setup is very homemade with 2 king sized sheets attached to ropes/auto ratchet tie-downs. I don't have a ridgeline, nor underblanket, but on cooler nights I put a small blanket under me after learning the hard way about a cold back. I don't trust the screws in my walls, so I've been hanging it over a &quot;safety&quot; mattress. </p>
1) I went with a hook because i don't want to fiddle with carabiners or soft-shackles (nacrabiners). I use those on the webbing end of my suspension where it wraps around the trees, but indoors I'm able to hang my whoopie-sling right over the hook and let the webbing hang free. Eye-bolt or hook - as long as they have acceptable strength ratings you'll be fine, it's personal preference. <br> <br>2) This is not an instructable on the details of using/sleeping in a hammock, just the hangers. Yes, adjusting your hammock to the right amount of sag will make it more comfortable, and structural ridge-line will make this easier. I like mine at about 100&quot;. Also, being centered is not critical, being level is. with suspension adjustment you can be off-center and still level (as is often the case when I'm camping and working around obstacles/limitations). <br> <br>3) This is not an issue of convection so much as insulation. When you're on a hammock your compress whatever material is underneath you, decreasing its insulation. You're effectively sleeping with your back exposed to the air. Depending on the air temps this may be uncomfortable, but in my experience just laying on top of a blankie in the hammock is enough to stay warm at typical bedroom temperatures. Outdoors I use extra insulation. <br> <br>Lastly, this is just how the hammock was positioned for the picture. In actual use it is leveled, comfortable, and the room has been warm enough that I can sleep comfortably without an UQ. <br> <br>Thanks for the input, I'll address a few of these points in the writeup (particularly the bit about distance between/height of anchor points).
Absolutely YES! However avoid the &quot;standard&quot; patio hammock (The one with the slats on both end); they are extremely unstable length wise. For the record: Yanomami amazon tribes fashion a hammock out of vines. These are laid straight lengthwise and NOT interwoven. It takes a while to settle down, but once your in it&acute;s like sleeping on air!
yes, I definitely recommend the fabric Amazonian or Brazilian style hammocks, they're very comfortable! <br>
What specifically would you not recommend?
yes, they are very comfortable to sleep in for me, and many agree (like, a whole continent) but as always YMMV. its nice to just tuck your whole bed out of the way during the day.
Another potential problem is that they are in my experience colder to sleep in. By definition will not be lying on something like a bed, only what amounts to a sheet, and so you will have to warm both sides of yourself. Indoors this usually not much of a problem, just something to think about. And I agree, I find them to be very comfortable.
The problem you mention of being colder to sleep in is absolutely true and is caused by convection. The air in the room beneath you is cooler than your body temperature and draws away your body heat, just as sleeping directly on the ground draws away your body heat by conduction. I have been a &quot;professional&quot; hammock sleeper for many years and I solve this problem through the use of what's called an &quot;under quilt.&quot; You do NOT have this in the hammock with you but instead hang it under the hammock snugly beneath you. This prevents you from crushing it with you body weight and negating its insulative value. If you want to learn more from an entire community of &quot;professional&quot; hammock sleepers, check out hammockforums.net
I said this in response to your comment above, but for people who won't read through that - <br> <br>When I use a hammock indoors I find it comfortable (warm) enough that I don't really need extra insulation. The most I've needed was another blanket to lay on top of. Yes, when camping you'll want something more, but inside you might be fine without. This is just my experience.
they can be chilly on your backside, but sleeping indoors has been fine in my experience. if it gets cold I just put another blanket under me and it's usually enough to do the trick.
Sweet instructable BTW! I wish I could do the same but, alas, I am stuck with using a metal frame to hang my hammock.
I make it ! And is work perfectly
<p>Okay, I don't know if my comment went through. I am not an engineer, so would this system work for a 225 lbs man. I am including my beding as well. </p>
This looks pretty awesome! But I do wonder at the logistics of extracurricular nighttime activities. Are those done sans hammock, or have I been sleeping in poorly hung hammocks all my life?
<p>Doe-able, yes, but you have to hang the hammock correctly. Most people make the mistake of hanging it stretched out as far as possible. You actually WANT the banana shape as this allows you to lay diagonally which makes having two people in it easy and comfortable if you don't have intimacy issues. Granted it wont *ahem* take well to a lot of excessive bouncing, but them tribes in the Amazon found the time and ability somehow, otherwise they would have died out!</p>
<p>Hello and thank you for sharing this.</p><p>I wanted to note that you are NOT going to weaken the wood in any way if you just drill it - like, holes 2/3 the size of the screws, or even larger almost as much as the screw themselves. Not larger than their head though :)</p><p>This way, you can distribute the load a lot more while not weakening the wood in any way. Thanks!</p>
Aww yeah! High 5 to permanent hammock people! <br>I installed my second home made hammock with a pair of 320# eye bolts with 360# quick clip things right into the wall. It's been up since February and works like a charm, though I should find a better bit of rope to hold it.
Dude this is amazing. I've always thought of having my hammock in my room but could find anything to hang it on!
Thanks for the kind words! If you do this, please let us know how it works out for you. <br>
Oh Lord no I'm not doing it! My mom would evict me from the house if I did! I'll hang onto the idea though for when I get my new room. . . :D <br>Gave ya a vote!
Thanks!
Nice. I like the way your hangers spread the weight over a larger area, and not putting the screws in a straight line helps avoid splitting the headed. Putting one or two screws into any stud it happened to cross would make it even stronger without too much additional wall damage. Good Job!
Thanks for the kind comment.
while I appreciate anything having to do with hammocks, camping etc, I don't get all the extra work involved in this setup. I have done this before by simply finding the studs in the ceiling and drilling the pilot hole and using a properly rated hook or eyebolt. Seems ONE hole on each end is also going to be easier to patch when you move rather than 5-6 per side. Maybe you can shed some light on this for me? Am I missing something?
I personally would rather patch a handful of tiny holes rather than one big one, heck I could even get away with leaving a few small screw-holes. Also, this design can be suspended from two studs in the wall if the ceiling is too high. I can't argue that one method is *better* than another, if you get your hammock hanging then everything is fine.

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