About a month ago, I was talking with a friend of mine who's a police officer.  We were talking about a number of things in regards to home security, and he mentioned that in most burglaries, the thief just kicks in the door - no problem - because door frames tend to be pretty wimpy.  He also mentioned that door frames that were reinforced with a strip of metal were immensely harder to kick in ... and I immediately starting thinking about making my own.

Most residential doors are pretty "soft" - i.e. easy to get through.  There are a number of videos on YouTube where you can see someone almost casually kick in a door - and when you understand the actual support structure around most locks and deadbolts, it's pretty obvious why this is the case.  While you might have an awesome deadbolt that resists picking and lock-bumping, the only thing REALLY keeping your door closed is a relatively thin strip of wood (probably pine) and maybe some trim - i.e. the relatively thin door jamb. 

This instructable covers one possible technique for making a door frame nearly impervious to being kicked in.  I want to admit right off the bat that this design is overkill - lol.  I have a tendency to over-engineer things and this project was no exception.  If I were to do it again, I'd be looking at using 16GA or thinner metal (1/16") as opposed to the 10GA (1/8") metal I used - it would be easier to work with and still very strong.

I also want to mention that there are commercial products out there that do the same thing - but why BUY what you can MAKE when you can make it better? :)  I was also able to make the door reinforcement for about half what a much thinner commercial product would have cost (not including time, of course) - total cost was around $22.

What you'll need:

Metal strip - I used a 2" x 48" strip of 10GA 304 stainless steel.  I'd recommend 16 GA (which should be even cheaper)
Heavy-duty screws - 4" long (I used hardened decking screws with Torx heads)

Assorted metal files, hammer, cold-chisel, drill, bits, countersink, sander, sanding belts or sandpaper, measuring tape and/or rule, center punch, scribe, welder, metal saw (reciprocating, abrasive, whatever works) and it would be nice to have Dykem and/or permanent markers.

Step 1: Dimensions and Layout

The first thing to do is check how much of a gap you have on the "knob-side" of the door.  If you've got the room, you might be able to install the strip on top of the wood, but if the gap is a little tighter (around 1/8") you're probably going to have to inlet the surface of the jamb.   I had plenty of room, so I opted to go with a surface-mounted installation.

Next, check how wide of a strip you need.  I used a 2" wide strip, but you'll want to make sure that you won't have too much overhang if you go with that dimension.  The 2" wide strip was *just* about the right size - I could mash it back against the weatherstrip and get the front edge just flush with the face of the door frame. The commercial units run around 1 1/2", which doesn't seem wide enough to me (another reason to build your own)

Once you have your material, it's time to transfer the locations of your lock and deadbolt catches.  Since these catches are usually kind of "tuned" during install, and mine were set up pretty much exactly where I'd want them, I decided that the best technique to get the dimensions would be to scrub-trace them, and save myself a lot of hassle trying to measure it all out.  If you use this technique, be *sure* to get the edge of the door frame as a reference since it's the distance between the front of the frame and the front edge of the catch-plate that determine how tightly your door closes (or doesn't close).
<p>Looking to use this build on a friend's door, does the metal extend the entire length of the frame?</p>
No, it's not really necessary - it just needs to be strong and long enough to keep the jamb from being splintered. The rail I put in is 36&quot; long with some pretty stout screws holding it in place. The bigger danger at this point is that the lockset would pivot under force and split out the door - but that's where the NightLock comes into play ;)<br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Barricade-Brace-The-NIGHTLOCK-Security-Lock-BRUSHED-NICKEL-FINISH-/161603961825?hash=item25a058c3e1:g:Hq0AAOxy4dNS7P~7
<p>Nicely done 'ible!</p><p>I'm curious to know why you bought 2 48&quot; pieces of metal strip. It seems to me that one would have been sufficient. On the lock side of the door, you are essentially reinforcing the jamb to ensure that the lock bolt doesn't break through the jamb. In your example, a single 48&quot; piece would have done this.</p><p>What am I missing? If it's important, you should add it to your ible.</p><p>Thanks for a well done article.</p>
<p>lol - I'm glad you liked the 'ible :) I bought two pieces because I ended up making reinforcements for two doors - I should add that tidbit of information :) Since making this, I've also reinforced the door around the deadbolt with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9553-Reinforce-Stainless/dp/B000OFUE52/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456757922&sr=8-2&keywords=door+reinforcement">shroud similar to this one on Amazon</a>. This helps keep the deadbolt from ripping out of the door.</p>
<p>Very nice! I'd love your feedback on my solid steel door jam Instructable, new today. I think it's a nice complement to hardening the hinges and door jamb.</p><p>https://www.instructables.com/id/Solid-steel-door-jam-or-brace-for-security/</p>
<p>Sad you can't legally booby trap your own door. I can think of 100 ways to make a door more secure. All of which would result in pain and suffering to the bad guys. Having grown up in Italy, I've seen some crazy combinations of door locks. It's not uncommon for people to have 4 or more deadbolts, each keyed different. There are huge numbers of house break-ins. </p>
Great way to protect the frame, but in my experience, it is generally the door that breaks first. The door will split and the the lock mechanism will just twist out. A metal plate over the lock mechanism on both sides of the door, secured with bolts through the door are an easy way to prevent the door from splitting. Reinforcing both door and frame should make for a very secure entrance.
Thanks for the tip :)<br> <br> I agree with you 100% - which is why I did install a lock shroud on my deadbolt (I should probably add that to the instructable) as well as a &quot;<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Nightlock-Security-Lock-Door-Barricade/dp/B007Y7PVLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368191194&sr=8-1&keywords=nightlock" rel="nofollow">Nightlock</a>&quot; which in combination with the other pieces makes this a pretty &quot;hard&quot; door.&nbsp; At this point, the door itself is pretty much the weak link - but it's head and shoulders above the &quot;average&quot; residential door.<br>
Thanks the &quot;coolant well&quot; tip - I've done that when drilling through glass, but haven't used it on metal. I tend to use the slowest speed I can get when working with metals - and thanks , too, for pointing that out as I failed to mention it.<br> <br> When you had your unwelcome visitors, did the <em>jamb</em> blow out, or the frame?<br> <br> There are two basic ways to reinforce the hinge side - the first is to substitute one long, heavy duty screw for one of the standard screws in each of the leaves of the hinges. The frame-side screws need to be pretty long IMO - 4&quot; is good, in the door, something around 2&quot; to 2-1/2&quot;.&nbsp; The reason you need fairly long screws on the frame side of things is that it can (depending on how accurately the frame was built)&nbsp; take almost 1-1/2&quot; of screw length before you actually hit the studs of the wall - you will typically go through the jamb (3/4&quot;) then &quot;airspace&quot; (sometimes as much as 3/4&quot;) before hitting studs.&nbsp;<br> <br> The second way to reinforce the hinge side of the door frame is with straps that screw through the jamb into the frame and wrap around the back of the hinge to keep the jamb from blowing out. As you might imagine, these are not the easiest things to install since they will have to be inlet into the jamb, as well as needing the trim removed, slotted, and reinstalled.&nbsp; Personally, I think the long screws do a pretty good job.<br> <br> While I think this door frame reinforcement is a good start, I realize it has it's shortcomings ..... which is where a door bar comes in handy :)
Nice job, You didn't choose the easiest steel to work with either, a tip I found for coolant with a drill press is to make a 'well' from plasticine/modelling material etc around the drilling area and fill this with oil/cutting fluid - on stainless use a slow drilling speed so as to reduce heat, as you probably know that stainless steel 'work hardens' with drilling, hammering and bending... now what can we do to strengthen the frame around those hinges, thats the other weak point - it was when I had unwelcome visitors! the 40 year old door resisted damage, it was the two year old frame which failed.
Fantastic piece, looks store-bought and expensive. Definitely something to add to the list of things to do once I have a house.
Thanks :)&nbsp;&nbsp; If you're anything like me, that's going to be a loooong list - lol
FANTASTIC work! Looks wonderful! Have you tested it yet? ;)
LOL - Not really - just kind of put my shoulder into it - but it didn't yield at all :) ... now to retrofit the OTHER two doors in the house :)
Great idea! I am also a believer of home safety. And I totally agree with you, most of this pre-hung doors that are easy to install do not seem strong enough to protect a family from a break in.
I faved and when the vote button is up I will vote! Nice job!

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