Did you end up with a spare box of scrap hardwood flooring?
Make a set of floor standing speakers with it!

Skill level
Intermediate - advanced woodworking

Scrap hardwood
Speaker components.
Assorted wood screws - #6 or #8
Paint (optional)
Packaging foam
Wood glue
Liquid nails

Drill & bits

Step 1: Layout materials

Have your speakers ready to check sizing.
Match wood grains if possible.
Stagger the pieces to give the joints more strength.

My only problem with Trans Line assemblies is if done 'wrong' will rob your cabinets of their low end frequencies faster than a starved lioness fires through a bucket of fattened hamsters. <br> <br>Your design here is elegant as well as functional, but you're not immediately showing the 1/2 to 1/4 rule in your step down (or the basic 'angular' thought) behind the Trans Line construction. Your measurements seem to follow the guidelines, but I was always led to believe the construction was to be at some kind of angle. <br> <br>Hey, that's what thinking 'out of the box' is all about right?
Certainly there are many places on the net to discuss and learn about subjects like speaker volume, T-line length, stuffing, crossovers etc. What I found VERY unique and valuable about this 'ible is that the fairly straightforward construction method results in such a good-looking enclosure. For me, I would do this process AFTER I had developed a design that I had decided was worth boxing up nicely. I am very glad to see how hells-oui did it. This is a very good home-workshop-style alternative to more typical methods like birch ply &amp; stain, or MDF &amp; veneer, with a similarly attractive result and, I think, more options for fancy wood choice and colors. Let's face it, putting down a good durable finish is difficult and time-consuming, that's the whole reason pre-finished flooring exists. <br> <br>I wouldn't worry at all about the hardwood being resonant in this design, note that both front &amp; back walls are MDF, and note that the T-line parts will VERY securely brace the hardwood sides. <br> <br>Excellent 'ible providing MUCH food for thought, thank you very much hells-oui.
Nice article thanks! I've got some old monitors that sound great but the particle board is particle-izing ... ur giving me ideas :-)
SMART to use this heavy flooring which has a supertough finish already. But first step ought to be: design the speaker boxes.
Ideally this design features a constantly tapering cross section [folded horn] which will drive you nuts with the angles! But just note the two woofers are not equally spaced from the gap, so right there you have a slight time differential. In other words: the 2 woofers move up + down in unison but face unequal box pressure.
Veryken is right, the internal volume has to agree with the suspension stiffness and size of the speaker cone. As it travels from farthest down to farthest up it moves a measurable qty of air and the air in the box acts as a spring. Speaker manufacturers should give this measurement as &quot;Q&quot; and there are formulas to use. Ported enclosures have their own formulas. <br>With an open attic as your box, you have what is called an infinite baffle, and must use a really stiff woofer.
Bose has made a small fortune by perfecting this type of technology in their &quot;acoustic waveguide&quot; technology speakers. We need more innovators in this world.
Looks great! Aside from the &quot;acoustic transmission line&quot; that you mention, what determines the box size? I thought speaker design was all about the internal volume -- width, depth, resonant surfaces, even solidity. I'm not criticizing, but I did a similar box mount for a ceiling situation with an open attic. The sound that resulted were not that good.
Quite right. <br> <br>If you bought the speakers and port tube as a kit then follow the manufacturer's recommendations <br> <br>It seems the author tried making a ported speaker box into a transmission line speaker box. I would NOT do that. <br> <br>Either make a ported speaker system, or make a transmission line speaker system. <br> <br>For what its worth, I followed Linsley-Hood's transmission line speaker system design, using KEF speakers [3 speakers per side - active cross-over feeding 3 Class A amps - yes SIX amps altogether!] Took a while to get used to it as it is completely neutral. But the clarity and depth is amazing.
did you use any formula/calculator, etc. to design your transmission line? Or did you just wing it?
They are really nice looking! How do they sound?<br> <br> I would be afraid that solid wood would make it a resonance box giving it a &quot;boxy&quot; sound. I have always strived to get a dead box (as in non vibrating and sound conducting) in my speaker cabinets.
I have to agree - it does seem too thin. Maybe glue the flooring over a particle board cabinet. <br> <br>Or use EXTENSIVE bracing!
Thanks! <br>They're not too bad, no boxy sound. <br>The hardwood was santos mahogany. <br>It has a density similar to mdf. <br>So I thought... why not. <br>

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Bio: If it breaks, fix it. If it works, take it apart. If it can be bought, make it. If it doesn't exist, create it.
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