Automotive Headlight Projector Mod V1.2

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introAutomotive Headlight Projector Mod V1.2

Modding your projector on the cheap!
With the simple use of a 12V Automotive headlight and a power supply.

The OEM replacement bulb for my projector cost ~$300! More than what I paid for the projector it self. And my power supply that powered the original bulb was almost toast. Using this guide you can use an automotive head light bulb for about $15 dollars.

If you like this mod please Digg It!

Please note: This project has been added to please check out my Halogen WORK LIGHT Projector Mod

WARNING : This mod involves modification of a power supply, projector, and a high power bulb if you are not comfortable with moding on this level, DO NOT attempt this mod. The writer is not responsible for any injuries resulting from these instructions.

Automotive Headlight Projector Mod V1.2

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step 1Gathering parts and supplies

For this mod you will need the head light ($7), power supply (old PC supplies work well $5), and some good gauge wire ($2), thin bare craft wire ($1), pliers and other tools. And oh yeah, one projector with a burned out bulb (E-bay).

Gathering parts and supplies

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103 comments	Add Comment

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Jun 9, 2008. 2:16 PMslimguy379 says:

HELP!!! S.O.S. well I got a Proxima ultralight ls1 off ebay for $50 but I am currently not able to watch anything because there is a led that appears if the appropriate is NOT in there (or not in at all) and then shuts off is there a bypass of this problem? the place needed to insert bulb is below

Apr 20, 2010. 7:51 AMXypher Orion says:

On my projector, I forget which model at the moment, Sanyo brand I believe, I was able to remove the ballast entirely and bridged a 3-wire cable that was plugged into the ballast (Just soldered all 3 together). I got lucky, as I'm none too great with a multimeter, but it effectively disabled the bulb detector.

On a more personal note I had made the mistake of trying to use an external power source in conjunction with the ballast without properly bridging them..luckily the projector had a 4A fuse in it. Of course I didn't find this out until AFTER I had tossed it in the trash and pulled it out again a few days later. I'm using a Sylvania 9007XV with both filaments and it hardly provides enough light to see the picture. I looked up the spec sheet:

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Xtravision/ProductLine/

Its trying to pull 12-13 amps, so when I get home today I'll be removing the low-beam lead. Hopefully this will improve the brightness for me! :)

Thanks for this project, and thanks to lumenlabs as well!

Apr 28, 2010. 1:14 PMXypher Orion says:

Apparently the PSU I'm using supposedly supports 20A on the +12v...perhaps the 9007XV just doesn't cut it? I can hardly see the menus at ~8 feet with all the lights in the room turned off, at night. Adjusting the bulb position succeeds in removing light spots on the screen, but other than that this seems to be a complete bust...

Apr 28, 2010. 1:15 PMXypher Orion says:

Going to try reversing the flow on the bulb and reattaching the the low beam.

May 7, 2010. 1:27 PMXypher Orion says:

Nope, still no dice. Its a little brighter, but not really watchable. Going to borrow a lux meter from work and see just how dim this sucker is.
Next attempt will involve over-volting! yay! 19.8v laptop PSU aught to do the trick...

Jun 22, 2010. 5:48 AMXypher Orion says:

Apparently I tossed the laptop PSU, so wasn't able to do any testing. I'm about out of ideas for this one while using a 12V PSU. I might have to get my hands on a fistful of high lumen LEDs and see if I can't build a breadboard with a decent amount of light from that. I've seen people with minimal successes with this build, so why not?! :)

Dec 9, 2009. 4:05 PMjssteinke says:

I figured out how to trick the ls series. If you take the top cover off the projector, and look at the top left side of the board near the small fan. There is a small 3 pin plug about 2 inches right and up to the edge. If you bridge the far right pin and the middle pin of that connector it tricks it.

Jun 30, 2008. 7:58 PMVIPER2475 (author) says:

Xeniczone has about the best idea. You'll have to use a large resistor that can take some current! If you don't know how to approach this I would get some one with Electrical Engineering experience to help. Be careful! your dealing with high voltages, have a fire extinguisher handy. Also make sure your projector would work with a good bulb. Also if the projector was $50 how much is a real bulb? My projector cost like $300 and came operational, Bulbs can be obtained for ~$200. Perhaps their cheaper for your projector?

Jun 30, 2008. 8:12 PMslimguy379 says:

DUDE calm down its 120v if you have read ANY of my instructables you would realize I DO have engineering skills, but I don't know I think I'm going with the other idea (halogen) and those run on stock 120v -130v.

Jun 30, 2008. 10:34 PMVIPER2475 (author) says:

Halogen does produce more heat. However if you have active cooling you'll be fine. My projector still runs a little cooler than with the stock bulb.

Jun 30, 2008. 8:14 PMslimguy379 says:

also my bulbs are $400 - 500 and like I said I paid $50 so I rather chuck it the spend that money (remember I'm only 16 and currently unemployed )

Jul 1, 2008. 10:27 AMxeniczone says:

Still a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher handy. Like Viper2475 said. Because i have had a few resisters blow up on me and it's not pretty. Age has nothing to do with knowledge. Many people who are extremely smart in engineering are only teens. I'm only 17. Another problem with Halogens, other then they create more heat, they also tend to release a yellow light rather then a white light. There are other sources of light that would work better then Car Halogen Bulbs. I would try set of LEDs or Florescent. BTW, A car bulb probably needs more then a 100watt power supply aka old PC power supply. Though it seems to work for you but that is just my recommendation.

Jul 7, 2008. 10:07 AMslimguy379 says:

I will try to make a led panel (I have to run to Radio Shack soon) below are pictures of my MANY LEDs that I was stripping off the pcb to re- use also I can't get a straight answer as far as the resistor size because this site (http://www.dannyg.com/javascript/res2/resistor.htm) will calculate everything but the max volt is 32v instead of 120v (try it out you'll understand) but soon maybe I'll make a instructable on this idea!?!

Feb 1, 2010. 5:03 PMrumjar says:

you could try something like this (cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ) they put out 3000 Lumens and run at 50 Watts. they still need some heat sinks but i reckon they would be a great idea. they also have smaller rating modules that may suit better. just ebay search it.

Jul 7, 2008. 11:45 AMxeniczone says:

looks interesting but they will need to be clumped together more. Even overlapping in order to work. Now that I think about it the resistor would probably be a bad idea. After reading up on it the projector actually checks to see if the lamp strikes or not. If the lamp strikes it continues to run. If the lamp doesn't strike then the projector shuts down to protect itself. What you need to do is take your projector apart and find the return line from the High Voltage power supply. The return line will generally be small compared to the power cables. Once you find the return line ground it. and it will trick the projector into thinking that the bulb always strikes. See the problem with using a resistor or say a voltmeter like someone else said. Is that when you turn the projector on the lamp strikes. This striking isn't 120volts. It's probably something much higher then that. A guess is 20,000 volts.

Jul 7, 2008. 12:40 PMslimguy379 says:

if the volts used is near 20,00v why can I connect my halogen 150w and have it run? (btw the 1st picture is an OLD pcb, I'm NOT using!) also what would the "return line" look like?

Jul 7, 2008. 6:42 PMxeniczone says:

It's only the striking volt. It's what is use to start the light to begin with. After the light is started it will continue to run at a lower voltage. It's like a match. Once you strike it you don't have to keep striking it to keep it alive. Couldn't be sure. Follow the Lamp's wires back to the high voltage power supply and tell me what wires come off it.

Jun 30, 2008. 6:28 AMxeniczone says:

Have you tried putting a resistor in the place that the lamp used to connect to? This would put a load on the circuit and maybe trick the projector into thinking that it has a lamp in it.

May 28, 2010. 4:25 AMOverSaltedFry says:

Instead of putting the headlight bulb in the projector, you should put the projector in your headlight! Portable movie theater!

Apr 12, 2010. 8:58 AMsiggibahama says:

hi, I am geared up and ready to do this instructable, I am quite exited and cant wait to pop some corn and have a movie night, I am having a problem though that maybe you can help me with.

I am using an acer pd100 projector, but it does not power up unless there is a working bulb in it, now I have to trick it into thinking that there is a bulb in by using a resistor but i have no clue wich one to use.

I have looked up the bulb but cant seem to find how much power it uses, that is if its 12 volt or 220 (I am in europe)

the bulb:
http://www.oztion.com.au/buy/auction.aspx?itemid=9673891

any ideas as to what strength resistor I should use?

Mar 26, 2010. 10:33 PMvistal says:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400099100452&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&afsrc=1

Should try something like this . It would last years.

Mar 27, 2010. 1:34 AMVIPER2475 (author) says:

Yes, thats not a bad idea! LEDs were not quite avaiable in this form when I first did this Mod. Perhaps Ill get one and try this out.

Mar 25, 2010. 8:27 PMvistal says:

Well 2 bulbs just blew up in my face . I am trying to remove the bulb from the plastic case and POP blew glass all over.

Mar 25, 2010. 8:30 PMvistal says:

So whats a Safe way to remove the automotive bulb form its case?

Mar 25, 2010. 10:18 PMVIPER2475 (author) says:

If you think your bulb will break I would suggest using safety goggles. and DO NOT hold it near your face. I crushed the plastic base with vice grips. and remove the thin metal braces with side cutters. Patience is KEY here. the bulb is delicate. It also helps to take a quick break if your hands are getting tired so you dont put too much pressure on the glass.

Feb 28, 2010. 9:33 AMnicknewbie says:

i am planning to do this with a Samsung dlp tv my ? is what wire(s) need shorted or modified to make the DMD run the tv properly i have the five wire ballast wire any help is appreciated

Feb 1, 2010. 5:05 PMrumjar says:

does anyone know a way to mod the Infocus LP750?

Jan 23, 2010. 6:47 PMGizmotech says:

Automotive HID is ok for projecting under 50". Me personally would jut replace the burner. http://www.lumenarc.co.uk can just supply the bulb on it's own which keeps cost down. bear in mind some projectors won't power up the DMD with these mods.

Jan 8, 2010. 12:38 AMCCronaldo says:

Have you tried putting a resistor in the place that the lamp used to connect to? This would put a load on the circuit and maybe trick the projector into thinking that it has a lamp in it.
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Aug 7, 2008. 7:21 PMtranseunte says:

This is a nice mod, but please stay away from Halogen headlight lamps, they're too inefficient for this job, and may melt everything inside.

What you guys should look for is a HID Xenon Kit, that consists of a Xenon gas filled lamp (works as the OEM halogen one) and a Ballast. I'd go with the 35W since it's the most commonly available, but maybe a 24W kit is a "safer choice".

Color temperature should be something around 4.300K (warmer white-yellowish) to 6.000K (colder white-bluish), I'd personally stay with the 5.000K option that mostly resembles the original projector lamp.

Now just work on a different power supply that delivers some 6A @ 12V then you're set, a 35W 5000K HID Xenon lamp delivers something around 2800lumens, should be plenty of light and also much more safer because it won't heat as much.

Congrats for the instructable btw, I would have never thought of that.. =D

Dec 23, 2009. 3:00 PMgoldbar2975 says:

i have only found 100w xeon lamp. could you post a link..

Aug 3, 2009. 11:13 PMjerkey says:

I totally agree with you, people should be replacing the HID bulb in their projectors' original reflective glass enclosure with a similar bulb. But where do we find such bulbs? I know that one can buy a mercury-vapor or metal-halide bulb rated at 100 to 250 watts, and that one could break the outer glass envelope and swap in the bulb for their old one... but where could one find such a bulb to buy? Do they have them at hardware stores? oh hey; the projector in this instructable appears to me to be an older style which came with a halogen bulb. I have one of those.

Jul 30, 2009. 11:58 AMVIPER2475 (author) says:

No the HALOGEN will not melt everything inside. Remember to use the projectors fan and you should be fine as long as its removing the heat from the bulb.

May 1, 2009. 9:29 PMguitarra says:

Hi friends: I am trying to adapt a lamp to my LVP-X70UX . The problem is that I have no idea what voltage the lamp uses. I set my multitester to 600 volts AC and when I turned on the lamp voltage it damaged my tester! Is it a DC voltage? Also, it seems that the projector has a sensor to check the temp of the lamp before it would turn on the LCD, if this is correct is there a way to fool the circuit to believe a lamp is installed and working? Thanks for your help! RL

Oct 25, 2009. 11:02 AMsilicon skum says:

The discharge lamps used in projectors are the same as all HID lamps, they operate using an electrical arc. The initial voltage for the arc to form ("strike voltage") depends on the type of lamp in question, but typically it is at least several thousand volts! Once the arc has struck, the ballast (lamp driving circuit) acts as a type of resistor, thereby lowering the voltage levels to a safer level for the lamp (otherwise it would quickly melt / explode). The "working" voltage of the lamp (the voltage once the arc has struck and the lamp has warmed up to operating temperature) again depends on type and size, but a small arc tube used in projectors would typically be around 50V or so. The current required by the discharge lamp is AC.

Be very carefull when poking around HID lamps, the voltages can be lethal. Its also certainly enough to fry most multimeters....
As for tricking the projector into thinking the bulb is working - yeah, there is a lamp sensor on most projectors, but the means of bypassing it will vary somewhat from one make / model to the next. Some simply need shorting together or a voltage applied, to trick the projector. YMMV. :)

Jun 21, 2009. 6:22 AMpurpulhaze says:

Was the meter you used a cheap one? You could try using a high voltage probe. You also might be able to fool the projector by using a resistor or try figure out the circuit that senses temp and bypass it by bridging a connection.

Jul 16, 2009. 7:24 PMabadfart says:

thanks i have an old projector that i got for $85 and the new lamp is $350

Aug 29, 2008. 8:09 AMSynaptyc says:

Can anyone who has had success (or not) with this please add their results to this post. I really want to try this, but I would like to know if it actually works well, or if it is better to stick with OEM parts. Screen shots would help so many people with this project. You know... fan attachments, running shots, side-by-side shots of the OEM light bulb and the modded light source.
It feels like this mod is 90% complete, and leaves the experimenter hanging with a few steps to complete.
ANY info would be great. Even successful mods on any other retail projectors. Inquiring minds want to know!

Jul 22, 2008. 12:10 PMShorin says:

Hey I hope you guys are still up on this topic - because I got questions!

Something about the power supply worries me quite a bit.

I don't want to burn my house down by drawing 20A with an ATX power supply. I know Ohm's law shows that that's not much wattage at 12v.... but I want to be absolutely sure I'm not running much risk running a 400W supply at 12v to power this thing. The math of that scares me: 30 A current to the bulb. That might actually blow it too.
I dunno if my understanding of lightbulbs and current are right....

... I guess I am probably just obsessing. I managed to dig up an entire post on just lightbulbs. The last few posts were what I needed to read... but it didn't entirely clear things up.

http://www.advancedphysics.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-2723.html

Anyways - I just want to know from somebody whether I'm running the risk of drawing too much current on my house circuit.

Aug 3, 2008. 3:24 PMShorin says:

-- it works just fine FYI.... I did it already. However, I find the bulb to be dim.... I think maybe an FXL overhead bulb may be brighter or something.

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