Hidden Door Bookshelf

Step 2 Door Frame - moving steel frame

The next key insight, thanks Jim, was to build a steel frame rather than trying to hinge the wood shelves directly. This would allow the door to swing easily and support 500-1000lbs without a problem ( full bookshelf). I calculated the size for the frame allowing minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board (2" ) and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below crown. ( 5") and the width was set to just cover the access door and be centered ( 42"). The steel 2x2 box was $90 cut to length with miters. I bought a couple of 3/4" bolts to act as the pivot pins. These were welded 7" in at center of bolt, from ends of the frame , and cut off to fit into 2x2 box anchors. My welding is not super, so I do a lot of welds.

The steel frame would pivot on a upper and lower anchor point, mounted to ceiling and floor respectively.

Comments

[shuckster66]

Do you think that the bolt would be more secure and easier to weld in place if it were run through the whole square frame? Oversize the drill bit for play to get the pin square. That way two welds would hold it in place, top and bottom. Or perhaps a sleeve to allow a "pin" to be replaced (from wear) as needed. I really like this, Thank you for the time and effort.

[kenbob]

I love that idea, as it provides a good way to make sure the "bolt" is square.  It doesn't actually have to be a bolt,  could be any piece of 3/4" rod.  there really isn't any weight on the bolt, it all rides on the lower frame , the rod just provides a pivot point.  I still might re-inforce the bottom and drill through the thicker steel.  Your approach is much more elegant. Great Idea.

[shuckster66]

Thanks for the compliment, but you did the hard part. My son wants this in the worst way to hide his bedroom. I want to do it just to do it, ya know? Maybe one day...