This box has an inlaid wood exterior with a custom mermaid design, padded satin lining, and secret compartment in the bottom that is held closed magnetically and only opens if you know how to do it. I looked at a lot of historical furniture pieces for inspiration - Jefferson boxes, letter boxes, captain's desks and spice cabinets were all often built with very clever hidden compartments. The mechanism I used isn't based on anything historical, but it works well and isn't noticeable if you don't know to look for it.
I lack the time and inclination to become skilled at true marquetry. Anyone who knows anything about early furniture making knows how much time, effort and specialized skill is required. I used the precision of a laser to make up for a lot of that skill and effort. That said, this still isn't a project I would call 'quick and easy.' There is a lot of sanding, drying and finishing time involved.
I chose a mermaid motif for this box. When I was doing the design I just kept coming back to the idea of mermaids. I chose a beach glass green for the lining to keep with the theme.
*Check step 2 for a non-laser alternatives update!*
I lack the time and inclination to become skilled at true marquetry. Anyone who knows anything about early furniture making knows how much time, effort and specialized skill is required. I used the precision of a laser to make up for a lot of that skill and effort. That said, this still isn't a project I would call 'quick and easy.' There is a lot of sanding, drying and finishing time involved.
I chose a mermaid motif for this box. When I was doing the design I just kept coming back to the idea of mermaids. I chose a beach glass green for the lining to keep with the theme.
*Check step 2 for a non-laser alternatives update!*
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Signing UpStep 1: Supplies, Equipment and Safety
Supplies
Wood Veneers - a few square feet
I used Birdseye Maple and Bubinga
1/8 inch plywood - about 5 square feet
This is kind of a specialty product - it's primarily for model airplanes and dollhouses.
1/2 inch diameter dowel - a few inches is enough
Wood Glue
Not a good place to cut costs - cheap glues get brittle and your tiny pieces will chip off.
Sandpaper - 1 sheet each:
220 grit
320 grit
400 grit
600 grit
Woodfiller - light and dark to approximately match your veneers
Tack Cloth
Varnish - water based satin finish is my choice
Clear Contact Paper (clear low tack vinyl)
Rubbing Alcohol
Magnets - two very strong 1/4 magnets
Epoxy - a few drops to glue in the magnets
Metal - 1/2 by 3 or so, has to be magnetic. Soup cans are a good source for this.
Wire nails - a few of them 1/2 long
Satin - about a yard (half a yard would have been enough but it would have been close)
Batting - about a yard
Cardstock - acid free and matched to your satin is best
Thread - to match the satin. Standard sewing thread is fine.
Fabric glue - ideally one that glues fabric to other porous surfaces well
Assorted household type supplies - paper towels, masking tape, scissors, pins, etc.
Tools
Laser access - if you can't find one locally there are quite a few services online that you can find with an internet search. There are some veneer specialists - I didn't use that but it would be worth looking into.
Clamps - all the clamps you can track down in all the sizes you can find (up to about 6 inches of clamping ability.) You'll be using these to hold the veneer as it dries so you'll want a bunch.
Hammer
Needlenose Pliers
Small saw - coping saw or other small, thin hand saw
Tin snips
Utility knife with fresh blades
Small Wood Chisel
Brush for varnish - golden taklon is my first choice because it leaves a smooth finish and is easy to wash out.
Spreader/squeegee/cut cardboard for glue spreading
Letter opener or other dagger shaped non-sharpened instrument
Some scrap flat pieces of wood to protect the veneer when gluing
A few heavy books (Gardner's History of Art works well.)
Safety Gear
Safety Glasses
Dust Mask
Gloves
Use all of these all the time. It's easy to get hurt using tools. If you don't know how to use something find someone who does. Protect your eyes from flying debris, protect your lungs from dust (you don't know what's in the plywood glue or varnish) and keep your hands safe. Sharp tools are always better than dull ones, use the least force required to complete anything.
Wood Veneers - a few square feet
I used Birdseye Maple and Bubinga
1/8 inch plywood - about 5 square feet
This is kind of a specialty product - it's primarily for model airplanes and dollhouses.
1/2 inch diameter dowel - a few inches is enough
Wood Glue
Not a good place to cut costs - cheap glues get brittle and your tiny pieces will chip off.
Sandpaper - 1 sheet each:
220 grit
320 grit
400 grit
600 grit
Woodfiller - light and dark to approximately match your veneers
Tack Cloth
Varnish - water based satin finish is my choice
Clear Contact Paper (clear low tack vinyl)
Rubbing Alcohol
Magnets - two very strong 1/4 magnets
Epoxy - a few drops to glue in the magnets
Metal - 1/2 by 3 or so, has to be magnetic. Soup cans are a good source for this.
Wire nails - a few of them 1/2 long
Satin - about a yard (half a yard would have been enough but it would have been close)
Batting - about a yard
Cardstock - acid free and matched to your satin is best
Thread - to match the satin. Standard sewing thread is fine.
Fabric glue - ideally one that glues fabric to other porous surfaces well
Assorted household type supplies - paper towels, masking tape, scissors, pins, etc.
Tools
Laser access - if you can't find one locally there are quite a few services online that you can find with an internet search. There are some veneer specialists - I didn't use that but it would be worth looking into.
Clamps - all the clamps you can track down in all the sizes you can find (up to about 6 inches of clamping ability.) You'll be using these to hold the veneer as it dries so you'll want a bunch.
Hammer
Needlenose Pliers
Small saw - coping saw or other small, thin hand saw
Tin snips
Utility knife with fresh blades
Small Wood Chisel
Brush for varnish - golden taklon is my first choice because it leaves a smooth finish and is easy to wash out.
Spreader/squeegee/cut cardboard for glue spreading
Letter opener or other dagger shaped non-sharpened instrument
Some scrap flat pieces of wood to protect the veneer when gluing
A few heavy books (Gardner's History of Art works well.)
Safety Gear
Safety Glasses
Dust Mask
Gloves
Use all of these all the time. It's easy to get hurt using tools. If you don't know how to use something find someone who does. Protect your eyes from flying debris, protect your lungs from dust (you don't know what's in the plywood glue or varnish) and keep your hands safe. Sharp tools are always better than dull ones, use the least force required to complete anything.
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absolutely beautiful
keep up the good work
http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/item/7591/build-outside-the-box-official-contest-rules
Could be a contender!