Hidden Treasure Box - Inlaid Wood Box with Hidden Compartment

Step 2 Setting Up Your Files/Non-Laser Alternatives

Lasers like vectors. If you don't know how to design with vectors the internet is full of tutorials on the subject. I used Adobe Illustrator to design my files. I won't go into it too deeply here, but there are a few important things to know.

When you are printing a document you can overlap whatever shapes you want and the one on top prints. When you are using a laser it will cut every single line in your document. Learn to use the "pathfinder" tool panel. Your file needs to be something that will fit together like a puzzle.

Think about the wood grain direction for your pieces. I turned all of the pieces of my compass rose to point the same direction when lasering so that the grain would form a 'starburst pattern.

Have extras of your tiny pieces cut. It's hard to keep all of the small parts together and unbroken. This also gives you options if the grain is inconsistent.

I included a .dxf file and .jpg file of the parts I used. Let me know if you'd like a different file format and I'll try to accommodate!



I had my plywood laser cut because I don't have the tools to cut it as accurately as I'd like. I used interlocking corners because that helped keep the sides square and gave me a large amount of glue surface area. It's good to clean up any dark areas on the plywood with a little rubbing alcohol. The dark areas are carbon and oils from cutting the wood and can make it harder for glue to adhere.


*Non-Laser Alternatives*

I dug through my toolbox and came up with a couple ways to do this if you don't want bother with having parts laser cut.

Alternative 1:

-Plan your veneer panels with minimal curves (the crests work, but anything like the mermaid would be a challenge).

-Print out your design/copy it/whatever and cut it up into pieces.

-Cover your veneer with a low-tack painter's masking tape. This will help stabilize your veneer against the various pressure you'll apply to it. Don't press down on it too much or it will be difficult to remove.

-Trace your pieces onto the tape (keep your grain direction in mind).

-Cut with scissors. Sharp, large, ordinary scissors worked the best for me. 'Cut through a penny' style scissors cut easier but because they are bulkier it's hard to get very sharp curves.

-Cut details with an exacto style knife. Knives are harder on your hands because of the pressure required to use them and tend to get caught in the grain. They are also more dangerous for obvious reasons. Save this for anywhere it's not reasonable to cut with scissors. Keep a lot of fresh blades on hand and change them regularly - you want to cut through the wood, not crush it. My first choice is a high quality snap off style knife. High quality blades last a lot longer than cheap ones do (at least for me) making the initial price worth it in the long run.

-Peel the masking tape off and follow along with the contact paper. Leave the veneer flat and peel the tape when you remove it.

Alternative 2:

I tried a jeweler's saw and was able to cut the veneer very smoothly with that. Use a fine blade and let it cut - don't put any unnecessary pressure on it to avoid breaking the veneer. This will give you more detailed curves than the other alternative, but it takes a lot longer and I would guess most people don't keep a jeweler's saw around. A coping saw might work as well but I'd use the smallest available blade.

Comments

[prplubell]

hey i love this project but could you please put the design in a word document im afraid i don't have the software to use this but i would really enjoy doing it

[Subconscionaut]

the legendary illustrator, jeweler and inlay artist Kit Williams (Masquerade) said in this old woodworking magazine from 84, he uses a scalpel to cut his veneers. My guess is the round bottom helps for small turns, etc. Beautiful work!

[technoplastique]

Thank you! Even though I keep a slew of syringes for glue, I don't have single scalpel. I can definitely see how that curved bottom would help keep you from catching in the grain, too. I'll have to track some down and try them!

[Xamu]

This is an outstanding Instructable! If you don't mind my asking (and I know YMMV), how much did the shop with the laser charge you to cut the wood for this project?

[technoplastique]

I don't mind you asking but I really can't give you a good number. This was part of a fairly large order (I have jewelry parts laser cut for my 'day job') and I didn't get a breakdown on the order. I know that veneer cuts very quickly on a laser - much more easily than acrylic, for example - and that any laser service will give you an estimate before you have to commit to an order.

[Xamu]

Okay, I understand. I'm just trying to get a rough idea of the cost involved.

[technoplastique]

My best guess after looking over a couple websites/previous invoices would be (if you provide files) between $20 and $35. You're going to get a better price if you plan a few pieces and have them all cut at once. I hope this helps a little more!

[Xamu]

Yes, that's really helpful. Thanks!