Once you have the concept down, you'll need to go shopping for materials. We found the kind of storage cabinet we wanted for this project, took measurements at the store, then went hunting for a plastic container to serve as a litter tray. An inverted wire storage drawer served as an entrance/exit deck. We also needed four 1" L-brackets.
Step 1: Measure and cut ingress / egress
Step 2: Extra hardware
Step 3: The litter canopy cage
Use cutters to snip away cage wires where you've marked. Be sure to carefully file/grind any edges!
Step 4: Final assembly
Be sure the litter tray can easily slide out for scooping and cleaning.
Hmmm. Looking at this photo, I may yet add another shelf at the entrance for the cats.
Step 5: Placement
We got a cabinet that locks. This is useful because it prevents the cats from coming out the front and getting excess sand on the floor. If your cabinet doesn't lock, Baby Cabinet Locks work well.
I can't speak for your cats, but we have two that use this box. With regular scooping / cleaning of the tray, odor hasn't been a problem.
That's it! My first instructable. Let me know what you think! :)










































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I've got five cats, and have read that I should provide multiple litter boxes to reduce kitty territorial conflicts. Has anyone done a litter-box cabinet with multiple levels? Will multiple boxes in the same place work well, or do I need to put single boxes in widely spaced locations? Thanks!
This is why you would use Baking soda (an alkali) on a Bee sting (which is acidic), and you would use vinegar (an acid) on a wasp sting (which is alkali).
In other words, you would be wayyy better off putting a layer of baking soda (an alkali) down under the kitty litter... and since the feline sense of smell is 30 times greater than our own, I'm sure kitty would be much, much happier without it's nose being stung from vinegar (the poor cat!).
While on the topic of pet urine, to get rid of urine smells altogether (ie. the dog / cat keeps peeing where they shouldn't) or any organic stains at all (ie. food, blood, grass), try using a living enzyme, which will feed on the organic matter. Some enzyme products are considered "specialty items" and are over-priced, but one of the best & cheapest can be found in the laundry soap isle at most grocery stores -- a box of dry powder called Amaze (it's often used as a laundry booster). Just dissolve a little into a bucket of warm water (not hot - the enzyme will die), and rub a paste of Amaze powder directly into the stain too before leaving the garment to soak for 2 or 3 days. By day 3 the solution will start to smell bad due to enzymes dying off / the solution stops working. If the stain doesn't come out with some light rubbing with a finger nail brush under running water, then rinse out the garment and repeat the process. And if it's for a section of carpet, make sure to cover it with a damp towel and maybe add a layer of plastic over it so that it stays wet (it won't work if the enzyme dries out).
So, use an alkalyd or an enzyme on urine - not more acid, which is what urine is.