Step 2: Preparation

The type of media boxes I'm using are the only type I could find locally, and they were only available in white. I didn't want any white behind the TV, I thought it would catch the eye when viewed at an angle. I purchased some Valspar plastic paint, gloss black. I separated the face plate on the media box, taped off the bristles, and followed the instructions on the can (wait 24 hours for full cure, so this had to be done in advance).

There was a slight texture to the plastic, so the paint shows this texture, but I don't mind because it'll be mostly hidden from view. If I wanted a very glossy look, it would have been easy to sand it down. Any scratches in the paint during installation I touched up with a black Sharpie. Cheap, but again, it will be mostly hidden from view.

Also for preparation, before removing the TV from its mount, I taped off where the corners of the TV were on the wall. This allowed me to quickly see where the edges of the TV were, without having to make a lot more measurements once the TV was removed. Not seen in the photos, I also marked where the hooks on the TV were located on the mount itself (low-tech method of dabbing my finger in the accumulated dust). With these reference points, it was easy to locate the best spot to place the media box, so the HDMI cable would run directly into the desired input port on the back of the TV from the wall.

I also marked the best spot for the power outlet. I knew my TV tilted forward, and the power plug needed a few inches of space once plugged in, so I located it above the bracket where there would be enough space. A recessed power outlet could also be used, if more space is needed for the plug.
Cool, I never even thought about doing this! I don't have a flat screen yet, but when I do, I'm certainly going to incorporate some of these ideas; makes for a nice clean install. <br><br>Thanks for sharing.
very handy
Thanks for the work you put into sharing this! But, have you heard of the Sewell WallBlade? &nbsp;It has all the parts you need to do this in one package, with up-to firecode cable. &nbsp;Check it out:&nbsp;<a href="http://sewelldirect.com/WallBlade-by-Sewell-Recessed-Wall-Plate-Cable-Drop-With-Power.asp" rel="nofollow">http://sewelldirect.com/WallBlade-by-Sewell-Recessed-Wall-Plate-Cable-Drop-With-Power.asp</a>
There are several products like that, but I wanted to buy something locally and not order online.
i did a similar thing, however i just grabbed a holesaw, cut a hole into the room (alcove area with fridges and shelves) put one of those hole cover things for office desks into it then placed all media boxes on a shelf over the fridge. <br><br>i then got an IR repeater / extender so that i could still control all the boxes. and result is a perfectly clean wall with TV. <br><br>I also made a shelf that sits on top of the TV wall mount bracket and just under the top of the Tv which is great for sitting the remotes on. <br><br><br>also american wiring and outlets scare the hell outa me with their exposed terminals.
My son's bedroom closet is on the opposite side of the wall I used. I thought about installing the components in there using an IR repeater, but ultimately decided this would be easier. I may still do that in the future, though.<br><br>What do you mean by exposed terminals? How are they in other countries?
You can use this, yea it's a little pricey, but you can do it without having to be an electrician and you are still covered if anything happens your insurance company will still cover you. <br> <br>http://www.bestbuy.com/site/PowerBridge+-+In-Wall+Power+Extension+Cable+Management+for+Most+HDTVs+-+White/9854446.p?id=1218186068186&amp;skuId=9854446&amp;st=power%20bridge&amp;cp=1&amp;lp=1
Also if you have low profile Wall Mounting kit, it good to use &quot;Leviton 689-W Recessed Duplex Outlet&quot;, this way the plugs are not in the way...<br><br>Borik
Just remember that if something happens, the insurance doesn't cover the damage if a certified electrician hasn't inspected the circuits
Each person should check with their own homeowners policy. This can differ based on location and the insurer.
So on the preexisting outlet at the bottom of the wall you just doubled up the wires on the screws to run to the top (new) outlet?
The screws were unused, the existing wire was pressed into the holes you see in the pic, on the back of the outlet. Old wire in hole, new wire on screw. <br><br>Except the ground, that has 2 wires on one screw. Or one wire on the screw, the other wrapped around it, I can't remember.

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