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Step 2Setup
Being a portable camera, both the 300 and 600fps modes can easily be filmed "point and shoot" style. These modes require the least amount of of light (about as much as a regular camcorder would require) and have a large viewing window. Bringing this camera to a ball game and filming the pitcher in slow motion is about as easy as doing so with a regular camcorder. Film a football player running up to the other team in 30-300 mode, switching to 300fps just as he starts his tackle. If you are an athlete, the footage can be used to review your performance.
The 1200fps mode, however, requires a studio setup (see below). It is very important to place the camera on a tripod or other firm surface. If the camera is unsteady, even the slightest of movements will be drawn out in the film.
Studio setups:
There are three categories of studio setup (see below). Each of these require several things in common:
Planning to unleash a little mayhem? Expect bits and pieces of who knows what to fly in every conceivable direction? If you do not want your camera to become part of the carnage, build yourself a "Safety Box." To build one, you will need four plywood boards, plexiglass, and a silicon sealer. Glue and staple the boards together and finish by waterproofing the box with the silicon sealer.
Large scale:
This setup is used if you wish to film an action that does not put your camera at risk. Essentially the same set up as destruction, the only thing lacking is a Safety Box. The absence of the Safety Box allows a tripod to be used to stabilize the camera.
Small scale:
The rainy day setup, this can be used to film smaller scale actions such as a coin flip or lighter ignition. This requires multiple light sources, diffusers, and a backdrop. I suggest reading steps two and three of this Instructable by Weissensteinburg.
The 1200fps mode, however, requires a studio setup (see below). It is very important to place the camera on a tripod or other firm surface. If the camera is unsteady, even the slightest of movements will be drawn out in the film.
Studio setups:
There are three categories of studio setup (see below). Each of these require several things in common:
- A black backdrop: I use a black table cloth. If the subject is dark, use a contrasting backdrop such as white or light grey.
- A sawhorse: the sawhorse is used to support the backdrop, any similar structure can be used. Use weights such as wooden blocks to hold the backdrop down, preventing it from blowing away.
- A raised, sturdy surface. Preferably uniform in color, this is the surface your subject will rest on. It should be able to withstand abuse as well, unless you want to add a little extra to your footage.
- A raised, sturdy surface for the camera.
- Lots of light.
Planning to unleash a little mayhem? Expect bits and pieces of who knows what to fly in every conceivable direction? If you do not want your camera to become part of the carnage, build yourself a "Safety Box." To build one, you will need four plywood boards, plexiglass, and a silicon sealer. Glue and staple the boards together and finish by waterproofing the box with the silicon sealer.
Large scale:
This setup is used if you wish to film an action that does not put your camera at risk. Essentially the same set up as destruction, the only thing lacking is a Safety Box. The absence of the Safety Box allows a tripod to be used to stabilize the camera.
Small scale:
The rainy day setup, this can be used to film smaller scale actions such as a coin flip or lighter ignition. This requires multiple light sources, diffusers, and a backdrop. I suggest reading steps two and three of this Instructable by Weissensteinburg.
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