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Step 5Install mounting bracket
If this is to be used on a bike, then we need a method of mounting to the handlebars or similar. I prefer the o-ring method used by cyclo-computers, and that is what I will present here. I used the section of 3/4" copper pipe that I cut off of the reducer to make a band for mounting the light. To do so, I cut the ring, bent it out, formed the ends in the vice to turn upwards and hold the o-ring and then filed some notches to help hold the o-ring in place. It makes more sense when you see the whole thing mounted in the last step.
To attach the bracket, I of course soldered it on. To make this easy, I drilled and filed out a square in the middle of the strap to allow a good solder joint between the bracket and the body. I added some other holes for reduced weight. Oh and they surely function as much needed speed holes.
Be sure to clean the copper before soldering, and hold the two body pieces in the vice like we did on the first soldering step. If you don't and the body gets too hot then the solder joint holding the whole thing together will melt and the whole thing will fall apart. Which would suck. Holding the bracket in place while soldering is a challenge. I used a pair of pliers to hold the bracket while I heated everything up, set down the torch, and picked up the solder and started applying it while holding the bracket in place as best I could. Once the solder melted and wetted everything, I carefully let go of the bracket and let the solder solidify. There must be an easier way, I leave that exercise to the student.
To attach the bracket, I of course soldered it on. To make this easy, I drilled and filed out a square in the middle of the strap to allow a good solder joint between the bracket and the body. I added some other holes for reduced weight. Oh and they surely function as much needed speed holes.
Be sure to clean the copper before soldering, and hold the two body pieces in the vice like we did on the first soldering step. If you don't and the body gets too hot then the solder joint holding the whole thing together will melt and the whole thing will fall apart. Which would suck. Holding the bracket in place while soldering is a challenge. I used a pair of pliers to hold the bracket while I heated everything up, set down the torch, and picked up the solder and started applying it while holding the bracket in place as best I could. Once the solder melted and wetted everything, I carefully let go of the bracket and let the solder solidify. There must be an easier way, I leave that exercise to the student.
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http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php
When I talked to a person at LED supply, he told me this was their latest and greatest and has a few different selections for optics. I've done a dual mount side by side using these and they are very good. Using your design I've also done side by side tubes Bike mounted I call my Double Barrels using these
http://ledsupply.com/luxeon-leds.php
I like these also because of the selction of optics I get a better beam. Thanks for your design and I look forward to making more
One other thing I did was to mount my Buck puck on the battery housing which sits in a top tube bag near the handle bars. No reason for that except not confident enough to square out the end of the tube. CS
Thanks for trying these out and check out my newer design (still about 9 months old) below for a cleaner looking housing.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Improved-high-power-LED-bike-head-light-with-integ/