Well, all of us who have a laptop and use it for heavy usage and gaming, we know how hot a real laptop can actually get. If you have tried market-available cooling pads then you know it too, how much useless they actually are. If you really want to make a WORKING and ACTUALLY EFFICIENT cooling pad for your laptop, then you should definitely give my method a try.

After creating mine, I tested it with benchmarks and found that HDD temperature ACTUALLY WENT DOWN BY 8-9 degrees and the processor temperature were almost 5-8 degrees lower than without pad. I have also included performance tests of both (with and without pad) so that you can judge yourselves.

So, if you want to make your own, go ahead.

Step 1: Raw Materials

First, raw materials. We need some basic stuff and some pretty tech stuff. Here’s the list

1. MDF board

2. ADP Board (I don’t know if it is really what you call ADP, it’s made of plastic sandwiched in aluminium. Use MDF if you don’t have this. No worries)

3. PWM DC fan controller. To adjust fan speed and sound. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261713169976?_trksid=p2057...

4. 12 V DC fan

5. 12 V power supply

6. Nails, tape, MOLEX connectors

7. Wood splices

8. Fine filter cloth (for air filter)

Step 2: Creating Base

We need to create a simple tilted stand. Start with a plain base of MDF. Make it slightly smaller than laptop.

Then we need to cut two tilted plane ADF cut-outs to support our main structure. They are to be placed at either side and their tilt should be anywhere between 15-30 degrees. You can go for more if you want.

Then we need a top MDF board which should be slightly smaller than laptop so that stays beneath the lappy at all times. Do not put it all together yet.

Step 3: Mounting Fan

Now we need to cut out a hole for our fan. Take a size and create outline and then start making it. i would recommend creating a hole slightly larger than the fan itself.

If you don’t have any tools specialized, you can do it still with only a blade saw. You only need patience. Here’s how

First, create two holes by hammering a big pin/nail at the opposite corners of the outline. Then using a circular file, spread it wide enough so that the blade saw can enter it. From here, start cutting towards two lines at 90 degrees.

Repeat same at other end and you will have a very neat cut out.

Step 4: Keeping Fan in Vibration Redundant Hanger

Now we need to hang our fan.

Why hang?

Well, you can go ahead and mount it using nuts and bolts, but using thread eliminates a lot of vibration from the cooling pad. Using threads, creates a suspended network which does not propagates vibration as much as an actual contact would. So you should use these suspensions. Make four tiny holes with nails outside each corner of the hole.

Put fan in place and secure it with threat. Make sure that the fan should not be in direct contact with body and don’t make the thread connection too tight. Keep it slightly loose.

Step 5: Power Supply

Fan now secured we now create a connection between the PWM controller and the power supply. I have included supply unit inside the cooling pad so that you don’t have to carry them separately.

Attach the controller at the right back side so that you can adjust its speed controller dial. I have kept mine inside with a semi-permanent setting so that it doesn’t have to be shown outside. Every time I need to make an adjustment I remove the back side air filter and access the dial for control.

Connect a 2 pin MOLEX between power supply and a power cord. Secure the controller and supply unit inside with tape/screws and don’t put them in middle. Put them at edge so that they don’t obstruct the airflow.

Step 6: Putting All Together

Now that all wiring is done, time to put it all together. Screw it or tape it. It doesn’t matter how you do it. Just make it lasting. When all is done you should get a cooling pad with a slight inclined slope, with only two cavities at bottom for air supply the air is drawn from front and rear vent. But the job is not finished yet.

You need to make air-filter to prevent the cooling pad from blowing into a lot of dust into your laptop.

Step 7: Air-Filter

Take two long thin wooden strips and create a rectangular frame which just barely slides into the cavities of the cooling pad. Unfortunately, I do not have images for this step, because I forgot them and created them without documenting.

After the frame is ready, take some filter cloth and place it over them, securing into place with tape or staples. I used tape. Now you dust-filters are ready, you are almost ready to go.

Step 8: Performance Test

you must really waiting for this. i know, what use of making a pad which doesnt even cool ? right ?

Okay, so used Heaven benchmark on maximum graphics and recorded CPU temperature while performing benchmark on both times. First with cooling pad ON and then at OFF.

For HDD temp i used another software to graph temperature over time.

You be the judge.

<p>I need to make one of these for my laptop.</p>
<p>If you make i would recommend using a 120 mm fan. i used 50 mm fan which drives a lot of air, no doubt, but is somewhat more louder.</p><p>A larger fan at same speed would create lesser noise.</p>
<p>A larger fan, moving the SAME AMOUNT OF AIR will be quieter.</p><p>50mm fan @15,000 rpm moving 10cfm and 30dBa =&gt; slightly noisier =&gt; 120mm fan @ 2000rpm moving 24cfm and 22dBa</p><p>50mm fan@15,000rpm, 10 cfm, and 30dBa will be a LOT noisier than 120mm fan @ 1000rpm, 14cfm, and 15dBa</p><p>Those are just the ratings on the fans I happen to have in my parts bin at the moment. The reduced airflow and noise is a result of running the 12 volt 120mm fan at 7 volt(old +12v/+5v mod). no idea what PWM speed control would do to noise levels, but I am guessing it would be similar.</p>
Good to know. Thanks.
just an idea for any who want to make this: if you were to make a small rubber bumper around the edge of the platform it may help. By adding a bump, the laptop is lifted off of the platform allowing air to flow around and therefor the whole bottom of the laptop will be cooled. as long as the bumper is a near perfect seal(perfect should be avoided) , what happens is the air between the platform and the laptop is heated then drawn through the fan. Were the laptop to be just lifted with 4 spacers on each corner, air would be pulled from the fan and only slightly cool it. Wrap up: rubber bumper around the edge with a good seal but not perfect, a simple addition that increases efficiency
<p>guys, i'm so sorry. I have actually used rubber bumbs too.</p><p>its just that i finished this intruct hastilly and couldn't get all the pictures. My camera was broken and my phone sucks, its not apple :P</p><p>thanks for pointing put, though.</p>

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