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This is how to make a hollow wooden kiteboard from marine plywood. The design and construction of this board has been simplified as much as possible to facilitate quick, cheap construction with out specialised tools.

The board consists of three layers of wood laminated together to form the core of the board. The centre lamination is not solid in order to reduce the weight of the board without compromising the strength too much.

This style of board is known as a directional , it is designed to be ridden in one direction only and must be gybed or tacked similar to a windsurf board in order to go in the opposite direction. This requires practice and is not best suited to a beginner. The benefits of this style of board is that it does not require any design compromises, you can have huge fin area at one end (for pointing up wind and loading up for jump)s and plenty of nose rocker in the other end for riding in choppy or surf conditions.


Step 1: Acquire your tools and materials

Materials required:

1 8' x 4' sheet of 6mm thick marine plywood

250ml of epoxy resin

4 x stainless steel self tapping screw for attaching footstraps

4 x stainless steel washers

4 x Future Fins Fin boxes (side type)

4 x Future fins

2 x Footstraps

Notes:

Marine plywood is preferred but good external construction plywood will work fine

Epoxy resin is used to join the laminations together as well as seal the board from the elements as an alternative the laminations may be glued with water proof polyurethane glue as this is easier to use (1 part) and the ply can be sealed with varnish once the board is finished instead

Future fins are preferred over FCS as they are stronger and easier to install correctly

Footstraps any hard ware is optional as the board may be waxed and ridden like a surfboard instead.

Tools required:

Handsaw

Block plane

Rasp

Sand Paper

Drill

3mm Drill bit

12mm Drill bit

Measuring tape

Notes:

A handsaw is better for cutting plywood than a powered saw as it tends to cut a smoother less wandering line and does not splinter the wood as much.

<p>Great work!! </p><p>Before I start I would like to ask if this shape works better or I can use more fish shaped design like 162 x 48 and 3 fin thruster set up (examp.: fone fish 5'4'')? In that case shoud also the rocker be different? the fish-type one is very flat..</p><p>Ive got a 6mm marine okoume plywood and will try to make it less in the middle as it goes.. and will use epoxy resin..</p>
<p>Long boards with little to no rocker are best suited to light winds. My version turned out 150cm x 42cm (9cm front and 6cm rear rocker) because of the wood I had already. I kept the original rocker because I get a lot of surf. It works great for me in 10 knots with a 15m kite (I weigh 62kg). If you're heavier or go out in lighter winds, I'd recommend a longer, wider board with less rocker. <br>I made a 160cm x 50cm dogbone lightwind board (no rocker) after this build with 5mm construction plywood scraps and wood glue. Sealed the thing in clear epoxy and regretted it becuase I used epoxy meant for arts and crafts that cured way too fast, resulting in too thick of a coat. So, get a proper slow-hardening resin unless you have experience with epoxy (I didn't, and ended up with a heavy board that lasted 4 sessions). By the way, my 5 kilo board worked great in spite of everything!</p><p>Cheers and happy building!</p>
<p>Great kitesurf board! Works very well in low wind, and rockets when fully powered! I made it with three layers of 5mm plywood I had lying around; I opted for drilling every 2cm for a &quot;honeycomb&quot; effect in the middle layer. Joined everything with wood glue and sealed with 4 coats of urethane varnish (don't forget to seal the footstrap holes!). If you've never used urethane varnish before (like me), my advice is don't apply it directly to the bottom of the board from the can because you'll likely get an uneven finish (diluting 30-50% will make even a cheap brush work better; using a lint free rag is even better); the top of the board is actually benefited by a uneven finish (non-slip). Due to trouble sourcing the futures fin boxes, I just put the fins directly into the board with some mounting glue (epoxy is better, had to re-glue one fin). This was my first directional board so I had trouble going upwind until I read on seabreeze to try taking the back foot out of the rear strap and placing it just forward of it; instant fix.</p><p>If I could start over, I'd try installing the t-nuts into the middle layer for a clean bottom, install fin boxes so I don't have to sand around the fins each time I reapply varnish and I make sure I sand out the pencil marks before varnishing (urethane brings out the slightest marks, scratches and dings in the wood). </p>
<p>No airvent? </p>
<p>Hi, this is it! The method I'll be using as a guide for my surfboard! Would you mind sharing an opinion on the plywood thickness - it seems too strong to me like this, I intend to use 3 solid layers of 4 mm birch plywood - it's relatively hard material. I have also available a good quality poplar plywood, which seems to be softer and weaker, but lighter. </p><p>Also, i intend going with the PU and the varnish, if the strength of the board will be enough like this. The epoxy seems as the more tested way to go, but seems harder to use. </p>
Thinner plywood would work great, after riding this board for a while now I'm regretting not lightening the center lamination a bit and using thinner ply top and bottom.
I know this is VERY unesisary but:<br>surfboard surfboard. You know the rest
<p>Excellent project. You should consider entering this into the Woodworking contest.</p>
<p>Truly a project that honors the origins of Instructables: sharing kiteboard designs. Check out the <a href="">founder's description</a> of the launch of Instructables.</p>

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