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A fully custom bar designed for my basement.

Existing Condition: Concrete Floor, Vinyl Panel Walls, Spray Ceiling (Finished Basement). *This can be seen in the photo with the pool table and posters.

Goal: Man Cave getaway: Full Bar, Pool Table, and Bathroom.

This instructable: Full Bar

Two Large Cabinets: One for room temperature wine and another for storage / mini fridge.

Wine Cooler

Sink

Television

Electrical Outlets

Shelving for Liquor and Glassware

Step 1: Base Frame

Problems: Sloped Floor, uneven walls. The bar to be constructed will be square and level, fit into a space that is not square and level.

The frame contains 8 stabilizing legs: Each with a coated bottom to prevent moisture damage at the base.

The Legs vary in height from 34" to 36".

Two 2x4s installed along the bottom to keep the legs square and two more at the top running the length of the bar. These boards are installed up right for the added strength. 8 more 2x4s run perpendicular stabilizing the front and the back to one another.

All the pieces were cut on site to accommodate the varying lenths required to make a square and level bar.

The length of the bar was chosen to fit within the space and also the exact length of the prefabricated counters available at most home improvement stores, 10 feet.

Step 2: The Back and Counter

First I installed the counter with the front edge square on the frame. The back varied in distance from the wall due to it not being square. This was installed with L brackets and screws from the bottom.

To create an appearance of a square wall and allow for a different finish material than the white panels, I did the following:

I cut 4x8 sheets of 1/4" oak plywood to cover the wall and go around the window. The plywood was cut to fit snug between the level counter and the varying ceiling heights.

I cut 2x2 members to frame the edges of these plywood panels, the window and also at midpoint intervals for the installation of future shelving.

I laid out the 2x2s on the ground at their intended spacing and laid the oak plywood on top of them. Using an air nailer I attached the plywood to the 2x2s every 12" and put screws at the top, bottom, and midpoint of each 2x2.

I then attached the left and right sides in the same fashion to the already constructed back panel. They each had one 2x2 at their front edge as well.

The panels were then lifted and placed on the counter, just in front of the back splash. The back splash on the counter created a square back for the bottom of the foe wall. I used shims at the top of the wall to match the distance of the bottom.

After this was complete I screwed the top of the plywood to the wall and the bottom to the backsplash. The front 2x2s and plywood were attached to the edges of the counter and frame as well.

Step 3: The Electric, Cable, and Water

For the electrical system I added a 20amp breaker to my box. The first outlet attached just to the edge of the bar, 6 feet from the box. This first outlet is a GCFI to protect from potential water hazards it is for lights and the mini fridge, three additional outlets are connected to it as well. One in the middle and under the counter for lights and the wine cooler. Another on top of the counter and in the middle for varying use such as cell phone charges and a blender. The last outlet is located at the top, for the TV and lights.

A sump pump and drain are located just one foot from the right side of the bar. I typically pour water once a week down the sump pump to keep it cleaned and prevent long periods of stagnant water. This provided an optimal are for the sink to drain, each time the water runs through the sink it flushes out the sump pump and reservoir. The bathroom in the corner of the basement, 10 feet away provided access to water. I added two T's behind the shower, one for hot and the other for cold. This can be seen in the photos. A shut off is located here as well to allow for the bar or shower to be worked on without shutting off all the water in the basement.

The nearest cable was in the above bedroom. I added a splitter to this as well and drilled through the floor where it was located in the bedroom. This hole came through about 5 feet away from the bar, so I tacked the cable up to the corner of the ceiling on its path to the bar.

Step 4: Sink, Outlets, and Finsihings

I cut a hole in the counter for a standard bar sink. This has a high head faucet and a simple set of handles for hot and cold. PVC drain below to the sump pump with a flexible hose attached to this.

The outlets were installed with white face plates, as seen in the photos.

A wood shelf, base, and outlet holder level with the counter.

A rack above the sink to hold Margarita glasses, wine glass, and other types of stemware.

A series of smaller shelves below this to hold shot glasses.

1x6 shelf at the bottom of the frame, in the center for the wine cooler.

Shelf below the window, creating a window box and space for the future TV and glass display. Attached to the 2x2s with a wood frame and two decorative brackets below the window.

Step 5: TV, Wine Cooler, and Cabinet Doors

I installed the TV on the top shelf next to the window. I chose a TV in similar size to the window to create symmetry in the upper part of the design. The plug in is directly behind the TV to hide the cables and the co ax cable runs along the top edge before coming in to the bar.

The wine Cooler sits on the shelf just 1/2" from the right side to allow the door to open. The space above is dedicated for a sliding drawer/shelf. and space to the left for unopened mixers.

I built cabinet doors out of a 2x4 frame with a DADO edge to hold a piece of 1/8" Plexiglas. The front is framed out with 1x4 members to hold in the Plexiglas and create a decorative edge. The hinges are also hidden behind these 1x4s. I engraved the Plexiglas with my initials, a J on the left and a C on the right. Behind the Plexiglas I installed a border of LED color changing light strips, and a series of alcohol bottles. I used foam insulation and 1x4 members to hold them in place from the rear. Due to the heavy weight of each door I added a caster wheel at the bottom of each cabinet door. This assists in the opening of each door and prevent all the weight from bearing on the hinges.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

First I stalled the shelf above the wine cooler. It appears to be a standard shelf with an opening but has incorporated sliders below to allow for easy access. This would be the location of mixing tools, wine opener, and other bar tools.

I installed both of the cabinet doors as well and adjusted the casters to the height of the floor.

Above the Window I incorporate a piece of trim to hide the last piece of white wall that was showing. To make it unique I engraved the address as well.

After all spaces were completed, constructed, and designated I removed the glasses, bottles, and appliances. I finished all the wood surfaces with colonial maple stain to give a hint of red to the bar.

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