3 Simple Ways to
Share What You Make

With Instructables you can share what you make with the world — and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.

PhotosPhotos

Share one or more photos of a project, recipe, or whatever you've made, quickly and easily.

Step by StepStep-By-Step

Share your step-by-step photos with text instructions of what you made so others can do it too!

VideoVideo

Share your how-to video. You'll need your embed code from a video site such as YouTube.

Home Brew Hard Cider from Scratch

Step 4Cook

Cook
Once you've got about a gallon of cider, you have to pasteurize it for two reasons:
-to kill any bacteria in your apple juice that might contaminate your brew
-to kill naturally occurring wild yeast

NOTE: If you want to do this old school, you can skip pasteurization and just put it in your carboy and let the wild yeast ferment it, but this will probably take a lot longer and might taste a bit off.

Put your cider in a big stock pot over medium heat and allow it to cook for about 45 minutes, stirring regularly with a metal or sanitary plastic spoon. DO NOT ALLOW IT TO BOIL!!! The temperature should be kept just below boiling at all times. If you allow it to boil your cider will become cloudy and never fully settle.

You can add the 2 cups of brown and white sugar here if you'd like. This will raise your alcohol content and make a slightly sweeter final product, but it is not absolutely necessary.

When the cider has cooked for 45 minutes, allow it to cook. Meanwhile, you should sanitize your carboy by adding half a cap-full of bleach to a gallon of water and allowing it to stand for half an hour. Then rinse thoroughly with cold water.

Once the cider has cooled to room temperature, poor it into your carboy leaving a few inches of room at the top for the yeast (if you have too much, just drink it! mmmm, warm cider!)


NOTE: I mentioned Campden Tablets earlier. If you chose to use this method you should not cook your cider. Basically what these tablets do is create a chemical gas in your cider that will naturally sanitize it and kill all the yeast. I have never used this method, though a lot of people prefer it because cooking does not always kill all of the yeast and you tend to lose some of the aromatics when you pasteurize with heat. If you want to use this method, I recommend you research it further, as I am not overly familiar with it.
« Previous StepDownload PDFView All StepsNext Step »
14 comments
Oct 19, 2010. 12:43 PMeskimojo says:
I've read that there are places that "cold pasteurize" which means bombarding the cider with UV rays.
I also know that there are some filtration systems that use a glass tube and UV rays to filter fish tank water.

Could 2+2=awesome?

The better flavor of the unpasteurized cider with the benefit of not adding bacterial cultures to your intestines?
Aug 4, 2011. 6:39 AMidlymr74 says:
uv light has to penetrate to be effective. uv sterilization is innefective with muddy water. cider looks like it would block the uv radiation
Apr 14, 2011. 8:14 AMjconway1 says:
That sounds cool... a bit like solar heating the stuff or running it through a solar panel... Even MORE eco-cider.

Brilliant!
Mar 5, 2011. 2:37 PMvincent7520 says:
I'll keep with the Old School as we do in Normandy …
We brew cider in an oak cask from late october / mid november till it is fully brewed. Then we bottle it and open the 1st bottle only "after the 1st song of the cuckoo !…" , so goes the saying !…
Watch the cork and have several hands each with a glass : if the cider is highly carbonated the cork will leave a hole well a dent…) in your ceiling and 3/4of the contents will be flooding table and ground before you can fill the 1st glass …
Nov 14, 2010. 10:32 AMdocwisdom says:
If you rinse the carboy after sanitizing it, use DISTILLED water. Otherwise you will recontaminate your carboy. I brew beer regularly and my recommendation would be to use an iodine sanitizing solution rather than bleach.
Idophor is best.
Oct 18, 2010. 6:38 PMlayeni says:
First timer here:
My cider has been fermenting for 48 hours and there are no bubbles in the airlock. There is gas in the air lock, as the liquid has been pushed into one chamber, but no bubbles?!

Also, I did not add sugar, as it says it is optional, I put 2/3 package of yeast, but the juice did not fill the my 1 gallon container completely, it arrives just below the shoulder of the container.

Should I add sugar? Is it too late? Please help.

Thanks
Aug 24, 2010. 10:01 PMmaran417 says:
I need some help please. We have started making our first batch of cider, from our own apple tree. We pulped them, and pressed them and have 5 gallons of juice. We haven't added any yeast to it but have left it fermenting in a carboy on its own, with an airlock. It seems to be doing well, after 5 days its constantly bubbling. But my question is - should we use commercial yeast as well? We have some of the Red Star champagne yeast (although perhaps not enough - 1 packet of yeast and 5 gallons of juice...?). Can we just add it to our partially fermented juice? Or should we just leave it to ferment with its own natural juice? Does anyone have suggestions? And one more question (we're very new to this) - when should we rack it? Thanks!
Aug 31, 2010. 9:34 PMwhiteshadow204 says:
I'm currently on my first attempt at this as well, so take what I say with a grain of salt. You can read my story a few comments below. I'd leave it alone and not add the yeast. People add a commercial yeast to insure that they have a good tasting yeast in their brew to do the fermentation. This is done after attempting to kill all other bacteria and germs. If you were to try and add the Red Star, it would now have to compete with your natural yeast, which is apparently doing well on its own. I don't know, but I'm guessing the natural yeast would win, unless you killed it off with pasteurization or campden tablets first. So might as well leave well enough alone, and let it finish, now that you're a week or so into the project. The instructions on my package of yeast (Lalvin) said good for 1 - 5 gallons. As far as I know, 1 package is meant to go into a 5 gallon carboy, so no worries with regards to that.
Aug 31, 2010. 2:29 PMstocky says:
I used both for mine but added them at the beggining, i do this as it SEEMS to speed up the process its also a good backup just incase the natural yeast decides not to work.
Apr 4, 2010. 12:27 PMRadke22 says:
I have a question... If you skip the whole making the cider and use pure store-bought cider, what steps change?
May 3, 2010. 3:52 PMnobody-really says:
The problem with store bought cider is that it usually has preservatives that will inhibit yeast from fementing the cider. you may be able to get away with "Organic" store bought cider or juice.
Oct 27, 2009. 12:25 PMLunarpancake says:
i agree ...DO NOT PASTEURIZE!!!!!

You can mix the nat yeast with your yeast and it will be fine. You are missing out on lots of natural flavors!
Oct 16, 2009. 8:54 PMpdofoto says:
 My personal opinion is to NOT pasturize, Instead I use juice that I know is fresh.. and often has been only through ultra violet treatment, that still leaves everything alive.  This leaves the option of fermenting with the natural yeast on the apples, the way it was originally done.  Some would call this "farmhouse" style, but depending on what strain of yeast is on your apples at the time you may get different flavors, and maybe not too tasty.  It was much more repeatable in the past, because each cider house crushed the same local apples, and with all the crushing and fermenting through the years, the building became alive with the dominate yeast strain.

In most cases I use good ole redstar as well, with the nutrient, by juice is never heated, never sulfited.  I feel that I want the true character of the fruit.  But, of course, do what feels comfortable to you.

I would also strongly recommend against the use of bleach [even diluted.. it's toxic], if you are making the trip to the homebrew store, they have several safe products for cleaning your bottles and tools.  I use B brite... which is an oxidizer...[similar to oxiclean].... and when you are done... it's basically harmless... but you do want a good rinse.

while I don't dose my juice, I do soak, scrub and rinse every vessel and tool and surface that is involved in the process.

In the spirit of Mr. Pollen, I encourage everyone to meet the people growing the apples you use, talk to them, look them in the eye.... and always return with a bottle of the finished product.
Oct 20, 2009. 7:26 AMkarmaghost says:
I wouldn't totally rule out using bleach as a sanitizer; as long as you properly rinse after using it, you and the yeast will be safe.  If you leave behind toxic levels of it, you're likely to know as your yeast will die and you won't get hard cider at all.

However, that being said, I just used Star San for the first time when making my cider the other day and it is infinitely easier to use than a bleach solution.  It's a no-rinse acidic sanitizer that you don't even have to worry about the suds it makes after you're done (though I did rinse most of them away).  
Jan 26, 2009. 6:59 PMkenbilger says:
What temperature would you suggest?
Nov 6, 2008. 6:42 PMobscenesimian says:
FYI Cloudiness from boiling is caused by the pectin in the apples. Campden tablets, 1 crushed per gallon release sulfur dioxide which kills wild yeast. Adding additional sugar while using champagne yeast will not necessarily cause a sweeter finished product. Champagne yeast attenuates well, which means it will use up all sugars, leaving little to sweeten after it is done fermenting. Champagne yeast can produce up to 15% alcohol by volume, depending on the amount of sugar present prior to fermentation.

Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

All Steps Viewing
View all steps of an Instructable on the same page when you're a Pro Member.

Upgrade to Pro today!
23
Followers
3
Author:actsofsubterfuge