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Home Brew Hard Cider from Scratch

Step 5Brewing with Commercial Cider (Creating A Starter)

[EDIT]

This is an optional step but after reading some comments on the original instructable, I thought it would be a good idea to include a few options for advanced brewing techniques, especially because this step is essential for those of you who are not making cider from scratch.

Here's the deal: if you want to make hard cider from store bought cider (which is a good option if you don't own a juicer or want to make high volumes of cider without putting in a lot of time squeezing apples), you will inevitably run into issues involving Potasium Sorbate. Now, there are a lot of rumors out there about Potassium Sorbate and its effects on Homebrew. Let me clear some things up:

-- Potassium Sorbate is added to most commercial ciders to stop yeast from reproducing after pasteurization. Potassium Sorbate DOES NOT KILL YEAST. It prevents yeast colonies from reproducing, which technically causes the colony to die, but it doesn't have the same effect that say, introducing a pesticide to the colony would have. Most importantly, IT IS STILL POSSIBLE TO GET AROUND POTASSIUM SORBATE FOR THIS REASON.

-- You CAN brew with pasteurized, commercial cider. Pasturization kills yeast and since we are introducing new yeast anyway, it doesn't really make a difference. Just make sure your juice contains juice from apples and the unavoidable Potassium Sorbate. If it's got anything else in it, I'd steer clear.

Anyway, as I mentioned, PS inhibits yeast reproduction, but it won't kill yeast by itself. Therefore, to get around it all you have to do is get the yeast started reproducing (i.e. create a starter) before you pitch it in and you're all set.

To Create A Starter:

Basically you will be taking yeast and putting it into a nutrient bath that is free of Potassium Sorbate and allowing it to begin fermentation over night so that it has a running start and won't be inhibited by the PS in the rest of your juice. For this you will need:

3-4 apples
Brown sugar or Honey (optional)
A juicer or, failing that, a blender and a mesh colander.
A food-grade plastic or glass container (I use a sanitized 1/2 gallon milk jug)

Step 1: Juice your apples or chop them in your blender/food processor until they are the consistency of apple sauce then put the mush into a mesh colander and squeeze out the juice into a bowl. Now you have pure, untainted, unadulterated apple juice.
Step 2: Heat your apple juice to about 140 degrees F for 10 minutes or so. Stir in the sugar or honey. Heating the cider is optional, but it helps to get rid of any possible wild yeast (basically up until this point we've just followed the first few steps of the recipe)
Step 3: Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature (a little on the warm side) and pour it into a clean, sterilized milk jug or similar food-safe container.
Step 4: Add your entire packet of yeast and agitate gently until the yeast is mixed in. Put the cap on and wait.

It should take a few hours to start bubbling, so rather than waiting around for the cap to pop off from the Co2, I usually just cap the bottle my starter is in with an airlock and leave it alone over night. By the morning it should be fermenting vigorously.

Now when you go to make your cider, all you have to do is pour the juice into your sterilized carboy and add the starter. It should begin to ferment within hours, but be patient if it takes a little while.

I have done this several times with commercial cider containing Potasium Sorbate and I have never had a problem getting it to ferment.

As I mentioned, this is an essential step to making cider from store-bought juice, but if you're making cider from scratch it's not a bad idea either. It will speed up your fermentation process if you make a starter and if you're worried about your yeast not working out, it will ensure that they are alive and kicking before you pitch it in to your hard-earned juice.

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12 comments
Apr 13, 2011. 4:56 PMjconway1 says:
Hiya, I have just started "messing" with the brewing of cider. I live in Brazil and it's not a very common hobby here so I have a few questions for you guys.
1) what can I use in place of "campden tabs" to carbonate my cider.
2) can I "make" a hygrometer?... or will I have to buy it on the internet?
3) when you say "entire" packet of yeast do you mean 10 grammes?

Please help gang... it looks like you are having an awful lot of fun and I would like to join in.
Nov 19, 2011. 3:40 PMbsmith86 says:
I've been brewing cider for a couple of years now. Start simple. I began by using the 1 gal. pasteurized apple juice jugs that they come in from the store. I add 1/2 tsp. of bakers yeast (any more than that and it will taste like bread) and 2 1/2 cups of granulated sugar per gallon. Make sure you pour off enough of the juice to get all the sugar in without allowing it to overflow. Shake it up good; it should begin to ferment within 24 hrs. I don't even use an airlock; just crack the caps of the jugs enough to allow the gasses to escape. I usually allow this concoction to ferment from 7 to 10 days before racking. If you are careful not to jostle the jugs too much, most of the sediment will have settled and your cider can be consumed shortly after refrigerating. Some would say that this method is crude and more like a prison made "applejack" but it is a good way to start building your own recipe.
I have found the alcohol content and flavor can be amended simply by adjusting the amount and types of sugar and adding different types of fresh fruit. Trying to make everything too complicated tends to make everything, well...too complicated. Good luck!
Apr 14, 2011. 7:55 AMjconway1 says:
That's great... thankyou very much for your swift reply, it's lovely to see an Author still in-touch with his/her blog.

I'm making a list of needs now and off shopping for basic parts tommorow. I've got 5lit water jugs to start with and will end up making a vapour lock of some description (heh), but thanks a million for the Hydrometer site.

As far as yeast goes I've had to start with cooking yeast (which is bubbling away nicely) and one site that I looked at suggested a very heavy dose, but I like the idea of an approximate 1gram/ gallon of wort, that sounds more like it.

Am I right in thinking that with a yeast and "yeast nutrient" (please explain the difference) I'll be looking at about 3 months till I'm drinking it?... when can I start tasting it? ... heheh, sorry, a little too eager maybe!

I'm going to re-read your blog, but thanks again... you've opened my eyes to a whole new game ;)

Apr 14, 2011. 10:31 AMjconway1 says:
Fantastic, thanks again.

Some friends are sending me some toys from the UK to help with the first couple of Batches. I hope to get the various campden tablet ingredient and Yeast types copied and batched by a pharmacy here... then we're off... till then baking yeast will do.
Apr 14, 2011. 9:28 PMxmobisx says:
for the carbonation i use 2/3 cup of corn sugar for every 5 gallons, so for a 1 gallon it would be about 2 tablespoons of sugar. this is assuming that the residual sugars are gone.
Apr 15, 2011. 6:59 AMjconway1 says:
Guys this is really good feedback. I've been advertising my new game here and tommorrow morning at 5am I'm being taken to the Farmers Export Market in the Capital city where I hope to find decent amounts of "granny smiths"... this is just a dream gone wild for me... "I'm lovin' it" heheheh.
Sep 22, 2009. 9:23 AMDuluth06ChE says:
Could you also use a "smack pack" as a starter? I'm not sure what the include in the pack for nutrients, but I use a Wyest Activator for all my homebrews of beer.
Feb 6, 2011. 6:04 PMxgxlx says:
You could use a smack pack, as long as the OG isn't over 1.060. Using a plain sugar yeast starter isn't too great of an idea, since sugar doesn't contain any nutrients. While it's true that yeast only need sugar to produce alcohol, they also need other things to live. If you only give them sugar to munch on, they're going to start munching on other yeast cells for the nutrients, which can produce off flavors. Making a starter with pasteurized apple juice/cider will work much better.

Another alternative to boiling is to get some sulfites from a homebrew/wine making shop, though I've not really read into the specifics of it. It will kill any wild yeast and bacteria present in the juice, though.
Oct 22, 2010. 5:46 PMjonathanwash says:
I've bought some cider from a orchard but since they're also a tourist orchard and so they sell a lot of cider and add PS to it. It says on the bottle that it's only 1/10 of 1% of PS in a gallon. Is that significant enough to have to make a starter or can I continue like normal?
Oct 14, 2009. 10:38 PMintheendinthedirt says:
Is it possible to make a starter with just sugar, water, and yeast?
Sep 27, 2010. 12:16 PMgoofhead says:
actually its very possible ... in fact they used to sell kits ... all you need for alcohol is Sugar, yeast and water..... once SG has hit 1.000 ( assuming yous starting SG was higher then 1.000) youve got alcohol just add what ever you want for flavour ... koolaid, cider , pop. of course depending on your mix ratio the alcoholic content will be effected ie your sugar water had a 10% alcohol and you mixed it 50/50 with koolaid then your final mix is rated at 5% alcohol.
Mar 24, 2010. 9:26 AMRamDragon says:
It is possible, but not recommended. When you transfer your yeast to your cider, or whatever you are fermenting, you will shock it with the new environment and that shock can kill the whole colony. You want your starter to be as similar to your brew as possible to prevent shock.
Mar 19, 2010. 3:06 PMscottyfon says:
Stay away from benzoate. It poisons the pancreas leading to cancer and diabetes.
Search online for Orchards and your State, and the word cider, and you will find orchards that grind and press apples for cider, where you can purchase it unpasturized or flash pasturized, without any preservatives, and in bulk prices too. Make sure to add sugar to a specific weight of 1.10 or up to 1.2 and the yeast will produce alcohol in concentrations sufficient to sterilize the end product... except for possible contamination by vinegar yeasts which eat alcohol. The recommended campden is to prevent those vinegar yeasts. Cooking to pasturize is not recommended, as it will change the flavor to that of cooked apples, but flash pasturized cider will not have cooked flavor due to the very short time involved in the heating process.
Oct 1, 2009. 8:33 PMcarnivoracious says:
What about sodium benzoate? I looked the compound up on Wikipedia and the article says it's fungistatic (prevents reproduction of yeasts, like potassium sorbate). I'm wondering because a local grocery store has gotten in a truckload of cider in, but the cider contains both PS and SB. Would creating a starter yeast culture overcome this? Furthermore, why would an orchard use both preservatives if they both do the same thing?
Oct 14, 2009. 7:08 AMthedubbedmime says:
yes it can but it make take longer and will most likely need more yeast.it's not as easy as the other way but will work.
Oct 1, 2009. 11:02 PMcarnivoracious says:
Yikes! E-coli, apples are dangerous! I honestly had no idea about the e-coli bacteria, though doubling up on preservatives certainly makes sense from that standpoint, particularly if unfermented cider is being shipped or shelved for any length of time.

Thanks on the prompt response, though (it's actually late enough here that I'm seeing the infomercial for the Jack La Lane power juicer, ahh irony). I'll give the grocery store cider a shot, and luckily there's an organic food store nearby if it doesn't.
Oct 13, 2009. 4:39 PMEnsPulver says:
 Bought the Jack LaLane Power Juicer and have been very happy with it.
Works well and is easy to clean.  Had another brand and prefer Jack's.
That surprised me.  Go for it.
EnsPulver

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