Step 8Aging and Bottling
Once it has aged as long as you'd like, it's ready to bottle and drink.
Keep in mind, it takes a few tries before you get the process and the recipe down. There are many tasty commercial ciders out there that you can use as controls to see how your own recipe came out.
Good luck and happy homebrewing!
-Acts of Subterfuge
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You have to stir up the cider after before you add the yeast. This ensures that oxygen is in whatever you are trying to ferment. Yeast need oxygen for the aerobic phase of fermentation. That's where they consume the oxygen and multiply.
Another important note is to make sure that the temperature of the liquid is 78 deg f or lower before you pitch / add the yeast.
I would not add table sugar or brown sugar. If you want to increase alcohol level I would add extra light dry malt extract which you can get at a home brew store. The yeast can handle this sugar a lot better than table sugar.
Am wondering about how the big boys do it. If they are limited to a volume of apples wont they make it into a high alcohol cider, let it mature then dilute it down to around the 5-8% mark??
Anyone any info on this???
For the alcohol content I assume that cider is similar to beer (and wine) in that it all has to do with the sugar content before and after the fermentation. I'm sure the big companies know exatcly what the sugar content needs to be to make a consistent product and they adjust it every time.
If you have a hydrometer you can measure the specific gravity before and after fermentation to calculate the alcohol content. I don't know how fermentable all the natural sugars are in cider. A beer with a starting gravity of ~1.05 will be around 5% alcohol when finished. To adjust gravity / sugar content - add 1 pound of sugar to raise gravity ~0.005.
If you have 4 batches to make - maybe try different starting gravities and see where they end up.
My question would be this; if you're bottling in beer bottles and your cider is primed, can you just measure off 12 oz with a measuring cup and pour that volume into your bottles without having to worry about bottle bombs? I don't have a bottler or racking cane, and I'm not sure if this is accurate enough to keep my bottles from exploding.
use a hydrometer to calculate starting gravity and finished gravity
when it stops working it should be finished
http://www.amazon.com/500-Amber-Flip-Cap-Bottles-pack/dp/B002Y2951C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1315323186&sr=8-4
A bit expensive to start with but they are nice to have in general. You can also usually find 1 liter ones for fairly cheap.
I would use a food-grade plastic tube rather than a measuring cup, and fill from the bottom of the bottle up--prevents too much oxidation.
- for 1 gallon, I usually only use about 1/4 of the yeast packet or even a fifth
- I don't think apple cider really needs yeast nutrient though I have never used it. I've never had a fermentation stall on me.
- with fresh apples, I generally just wash the heck out of them, juice them, and don't pasteurize. I add well-activated yeast and it gets to do the majority of the work, while a little wild yeast adds some character (I've never had this go wrong, and this is how some wineries operate)
- I would stress sanitation more--EVERYTHING that comes in contact with the cider should be sanitized, including the juicer elements (mine are all dishwasher safe, so I usually run it through on sanitize right before starting)
- Rather than racking, I generally just wait until fermentation stops (when SG doesn't change over 2 days)--this is usually just 2 weeks or so which is fine for letting stuff hang out with the sediment. Then I bottle with priming sugar or add apple juice concentrate. Check for "priming sugar calculator" on google for charts. Then it's best to let the bottles age for a few months. I like using 1 liter grolsh bottles with flip-top lids.
- I have had fun results adding the following to kick up alcohol: dextrose (corn sugar), regular sugar, honey (you will want to rack in this case and will need a long bit of more time), fructose (cheap and matches the primary sugar in apple juice), and my favorite is just adding a can of frozen apple juice concentrate
- you CAN use ale and/or lager yeasts with great results--lager in particular works well but will require the right temperatures and you need to age the heck out of it.
- I would strongly advise against any sort of heat pasteurization - it radically changes the flavor, at least to my taste buds
- most store apple juices are made without preservatives, added sugar, or added water. Added vitamin C is not a problem.
- Whole Foods, for about $7, sells 1 gallon glass jugs of unfiltered, cold pasteurized apple juice. Makes a very convenient, easy, and cost effective source. It's a tarter than typical organic juice that benefits from some added sugar.
Harpoon (a Massachusetts Brewer) has an apple cider made solely from Apples and Yeast--it's dry, crisp, light, and smooth. Also about 4% alcohol. It makes a good "standard" IMO.
Just some things to throw out there! I'm lucky in that I really like cider in all spectrums of the results--from tart&dry to sweet&mellow to even a little sour/funky, so I feel pretty confident goofing off with it.
I have not had a problem finding cider (not from concentrate) in 1-gallon jugs at our local Walmart (we live in Colorado). There is no potassium sorbate on the label, but the cider has been pasteurized. I have not added any additional sugar to the must so far to keep the alcohol content low (adding extra sugars at the beginning will not make your cider sweeter unless you intentionally arrest the fermentation before finishing - extra sugar at the beginning will increase your alcohol content), but will probably backsweeten when the fermentation is done to balance the tartness of the cider.
I don't have a complete brew log yet from these batches, but I'm thinking the typical cider is probably about 5% alcohol - so I'd start with a SG at about 1.050 and add a little yeast nutrient to keep things going.
Another comment would be to add Pectic Enzyme - if you don't add this at the very beginning (about an hour before adding yeast) and mix thoroughly, you'll have trouble getting the cider to clear out later. It's cheap and easy to find at a home-brew store.
For the berry flavor, I'm thinking of adding 1lb of thawed and mashed blackberries to the must at the start of secondary fermentation (again, you should probably pre-treat the berry mash with pectic enzyme) and letting them sit in the carboy until it's time to bottle.
Thank you for the help in advance!
Calculating the ABV
Say our brewer crafted a high-alcohol beer. The OG measured at 1.080, and the beer stopped fermentation with a FG measurement of 1.011. Simply subtract the FG from the OG and multiply by 131.
1.080 - 1.011 = 0.069 x 131 = 9.039%
So we've got a 9 percent alcohol by volume beer. Easy!
Thanks
Also i did not monitor temperature but during the day room temp was around 25C and at night it dropped to a high of 15 so in theory yeast should have stopped at 18-19 but the natural yeast in B kept growing away while A stalled and kicked back in when temps got back up to 20C.
So to short answer your question yes you multiply all ingrediants ... except the yeast it would be happy with just a single packet of yeast.
people are saying to just put it in plastic bottles in a cool place and add suger for carbonation, but if i did this would my plastic bottles not explode??
any help is greatly appreciated!!
thanks.