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Step 10Control Panel
As I mentioned in the Introduction, the control panel was converted from one double gang box to two single gang boxes. The original double gang box (while simpler) did not allow us to plug in both timers.
1. This is the control panel in its final configuration.
2. The three square mounting plates are 12 ga. steel formed into a 4-1/4" long x 4-/2" wide "C" channel with a 7/8" leg. I just happened to have them kicking around but their convenient size was not a coincidence. They were left over from building my driveway cover and were used (or not used) to install single gang exterior outlet boxes. Just like the ones we are using here. I always try to make a few extra of anything I'm making, and once again it came in handy.
3. On both single gang boxes, using the enclose hardware, mount the mounting tabs on the boxes. Be careful not to over tighten and strip the threads in the box. (I personally think this mounting system leaves much to be desired, but you are not supposed to drill through the back of the box and use real bolts)
4. Install the plugs in the back of both boxes and in the bottom of one of them.
5. Position, align and square up one of the boxes on your mounting plate.
6. Using a sharp pencil (or other marking device) mark the hole locations on the mounting plate
7. Using a sharp center punch, punch the centers of the circle.
8. Using the correct size drill bit, pilot or clearance a hole for the screw you will be using. I have square drive self drilling screws and my pilot size is 9/64".
9. Set the box over the piloted holes and insure alignment.
10. Cut two 14" pieces of angle iron and trim opposing legs at 45 degrees for functional and aesthetic purposes. Remember to save those useful triangles!
11. Mock up the control panel and measure for the cross braces. Mine were 12-3/8".
12. Cut two cross braces 12-3/8" long. Hold the top brace in position with welding magnets and use the second brace for spacing. Tack weld and check square.
13. One at a time, position the three mounting plates and tack in position. Be sure to check square as you go.
14. position the lower cross brace as show, tack in position, check square and parallel. Weld the entire assembly. Clamp the welded control panel to frame.
OPTION #1 - If you do not need this to be low profile in storage, weld the control panel in place and go onto the wiring step.
OPTION #2 - If you need this to collapse into the smallest package possible, go onto the next step.
15. While the control panel is clamped to the frame, mark, punch and pilot drill for clearance holes.
16. Use the proper clearance drill, open the holes up to the clearance size.
17. Be sure you do not catch the drill tip as it breaks though. Man that was a good split point, TiN coated drill!
Using 5/16" bolts and nuts, fasten the control panel to the frame.
18. Bonus Picture! - The old control panel cut off!
1. This is the control panel in its final configuration.
2. The three square mounting plates are 12 ga. steel formed into a 4-1/4" long x 4-/2" wide "C" channel with a 7/8" leg. I just happened to have them kicking around but their convenient size was not a coincidence. They were left over from building my driveway cover and were used (or not used) to install single gang exterior outlet boxes. Just like the ones we are using here. I always try to make a few extra of anything I'm making, and once again it came in handy.
3. On both single gang boxes, using the enclose hardware, mount the mounting tabs on the boxes. Be careful not to over tighten and strip the threads in the box. (I personally think this mounting system leaves much to be desired, but you are not supposed to drill through the back of the box and use real bolts)
4. Install the plugs in the back of both boxes and in the bottom of one of them.
5. Position, align and square up one of the boxes on your mounting plate.
6. Using a sharp pencil (or other marking device) mark the hole locations on the mounting plate
7. Using a sharp center punch, punch the centers of the circle.
8. Using the correct size drill bit, pilot or clearance a hole for the screw you will be using. I have square drive self drilling screws and my pilot size is 9/64".
9. Set the box over the piloted holes and insure alignment.
10. Cut two 14" pieces of angle iron and trim opposing legs at 45 degrees for functional and aesthetic purposes. Remember to save those useful triangles!
11. Mock up the control panel and measure for the cross braces. Mine were 12-3/8".
12. Cut two cross braces 12-3/8" long. Hold the top brace in position with welding magnets and use the second brace for spacing. Tack weld and check square.
13. One at a time, position the three mounting plates and tack in position. Be sure to check square as you go.
14. position the lower cross brace as show, tack in position, check square and parallel. Weld the entire assembly. Clamp the welded control panel to frame.
OPTION #1 - If you do not need this to be low profile in storage, weld the control panel in place and go onto the wiring step.
OPTION #2 - If you need this to collapse into the smallest package possible, go onto the next step.
15. While the control panel is clamped to the frame, mark, punch and pilot drill for clearance holes.
16. Use the proper clearance drill, open the holes up to the clearance size.
17. Be sure you do not catch the drill tip as it breaks though. Man that was a good split point, TiN coated drill!
Using 5/16" bolts and nuts, fasten the control panel to the frame.
18. Bonus Picture! - The old control panel cut off!
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Nov 15, 2008. 6:49 AMDino1981
says:
Nice work 1st place....................
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Nov 16, 2008. 8:44 AMMikey D (author)
says:
Thanks Dino!
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