Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 12Wiring the control panel
As this is definitely a wet location with a high probability of a student splashing, a GFCI is MANDATORY for this installation. GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt and will shut the power off if there is an imbalance in the power between the black and white wire (hot and return).
For whatever reason, I usually start wiring at the end of the run. In this case I started with the plain grounded receptacle in the right hand gang box.
Remember when connecting the wires to the devices...
Black is Brass
White is Silver
Also, as this is stranded wire, you cannot use the "stab-n" connections in the back of the receptacle.
1. Wrap the black wire around the brass screw in a clockwise direction and tighten. This is code and it is important so the wire tightens around the screw as you tighten the screw. (Yes this is a used receptacle being put back into service. Hooray for recycling!)
2. Wrap the white wire around the silver screw and tighten. Make a pigtail by cutting a 6" piece of 14 ga. copper from some scrap romex (or whatever type of wire you have kicking around), put a "U" bend in the end and place it clockwise around the ground screw. Tighten the ground screw.
3. Install another pigtail on the ground screw on the receptacle
4. Hold all of the grounds together.
5. Using a linesman plier, twist them together and trim the ends flush and install a yellow wire nut.
6. Using a screw driver, install the receptacle in the box.
7. Do not tighten the screws. Leave them 2-3 turns loose. This will enable you to properly tighten and center the face plate.
8. Use a flat blade screwdriver to start the screw in the face plate. Straighten and align the plate on the edges of the box and tighten the screw.
9. Inspect the back side of the GFCI. One set of holes is for the line (power in) and the other set is for the load (power out for the other receptacle) DO NOT MIX THEM UP! On a new GFCI there will be a label over the line side of the device.
You can use the stranded wire in these holes. These screws tighten the conductor between two flat plates so stranded is OK. If you have trouble inserting the wires, check that the screw is loose and that it is pushed up against the side of the device.
10. With respect to polarity, install the wires from the plug side into the line side of the GFCI and tighten the screws. Install a pigtail on the ground screw in the box and tighten.
11. With respect to polarity, install the wires from the other gang box to the load side of the GFCI and tighten the screws. Install a pigtail into the ground on the GFCI and tighten.
12. Align the grounds, twist, trim and install a red wire nut.
13. Using a screw driver, install the GFCI in the gang box leaving the screws 2-3 turns loose.
14. Using a flat blade screw driver, install and align the face plate on the GFCI in the gang box.
15. Using the appropriate screws (self drilling, square drive in this case), install both gang boxes in the piloted holes in the control panel.
16. Congratulations! Your control panel is now completed.
For whatever reason, I usually start wiring at the end of the run. In this case I started with the plain grounded receptacle in the right hand gang box.
Remember when connecting the wires to the devices...
Black is Brass
White is Silver
Also, as this is stranded wire, you cannot use the "stab-n" connections in the back of the receptacle.
1. Wrap the black wire around the brass screw in a clockwise direction and tighten. This is code and it is important so the wire tightens around the screw as you tighten the screw. (Yes this is a used receptacle being put back into service. Hooray for recycling!)
2. Wrap the white wire around the silver screw and tighten. Make a pigtail by cutting a 6" piece of 14 ga. copper from some scrap romex (or whatever type of wire you have kicking around), put a "U" bend in the end and place it clockwise around the ground screw. Tighten the ground screw.
3. Install another pigtail on the ground screw on the receptacle
4. Hold all of the grounds together.
5. Using a linesman plier, twist them together and trim the ends flush and install a yellow wire nut.
6. Using a screw driver, install the receptacle in the box.
7. Do not tighten the screws. Leave them 2-3 turns loose. This will enable you to properly tighten and center the face plate.
8. Use a flat blade screwdriver to start the screw in the face plate. Straighten and align the plate on the edges of the box and tighten the screw.
9. Inspect the back side of the GFCI. One set of holes is for the line (power in) and the other set is for the load (power out for the other receptacle) DO NOT MIX THEM UP! On a new GFCI there will be a label over the line side of the device.
You can use the stranded wire in these holes. These screws tighten the conductor between two flat plates so stranded is OK. If you have trouble inserting the wires, check that the screw is loose and that it is pushed up against the side of the device.
10. With respect to polarity, install the wires from the plug side into the line side of the GFCI and tighten the screws. Install a pigtail on the ground screw in the box and tighten.
11. With respect to polarity, install the wires from the other gang box to the load side of the GFCI and tighten the screws. Install a pigtail into the ground on the GFCI and tighten.
12. Align the grounds, twist, trim and install a red wire nut.
13. Using a screw driver, install the GFCI in the gang box leaving the screws 2-3 turns loose.
14. Using a flat blade screw driver, install and align the face plate on the GFCI in the gang box.
15. Using the appropriate screws (self drilling, square drive in this case), install both gang boxes in the piloted holes in the control panel.
16. Congratulations! Your control panel is now completed.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
