Step 8Light Bracket Uprights
They slip onto the lower rear brace and are bolted to the top rear frame. As the rear brace is parallel to the ground and the top frame is not; one light bracket is 2" longer than the other. This maintains the same distance to the troughs over the length of the frame.
1. Lengthwise. The frame is 5' long and the fixtures are 4' long. That leaves 6" between the frame and the fixture. The chains are 1-1/4" from the end so my measurement from the end of the frame is 7-1/4".
2. Front to back. The frame is 23" and the fixtures are about 5" each. That leave approximately 4-3/8" spacing.
3. The bottom brace on the frame is marked for lengthwise dimensions - 7-1/4" from each end.
4. The uprights are cut 48" and 50" long. The longer one belongs on the high side of the frame. The uprights for the brackets are clamped in place, square with the bottom brace. This should make them plumb (if it's resting on a level surface, not my driveway.)
5. The upper frame and lower brace are marked for easy referance.
6. Remember those neat little triangles that dropped off from trimming 45 degree angles on the cross braces???
7. They make dandy stops for the uprights. Center one on each upright, against the top of the rear brace.
8. From the back side of the upright, carefully tack the stop to the upright. Then remove it and carefully weld the tip of the triangle to the front of the upright.
9. Cut two 4" pieces of angle for retainers, mark the center and clamp each retainer to the stop on the uprights.
10. Carefully weld each retainer to the stop. This will allow the upright to slide off of the rear brace and to be easily slid on. It will eliminate the need for a bolt on the bottom. You could actually use this method for clamping the upright to the top of the frame as well, but I chose to bolt it for security.
11. Mark, center punch and pilot drill the uprights and frame.
12. Clearance drill the piloted holes 21/64" to allow for a 5/16-18 bolt.
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