Homemade 100 HP Motor Controller for an Electric Car

 by MPaulHolmes
Featured
This instructable explains how to build your own 100 HP (peak) motor controller for use in an electric car or motorcycle conversion.  It can take any voltage up to 144v, and the peak current is 500 amps.  The cost of the components is a few hundred dollars, which means you can save over $1000 by putting one together yourself.   At 144v, you can expect a top speed of around 75 MPH in a car. 
Check out  http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motor-controller.html
if you want to read about the whole story!

Experience in soldering is important.  If you want to really keep costs down, a mill is helpful, but that work can be outsourced to a local metal shop.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Get/Make a power board and control board.

You are going to need a control board and etched power board.  The power board needs to be at least 3 ounce copper.   Ebay is a good place to look for heavy cheap copper clad PCB.  For example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/25-shts-Copper-Clad-Laminate-FR-4-060-9-x-12-3oz-/310244821519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483c084a0f

You could print the picture from this link and somehow transfer it onto a piece of heavy blank PCB, and etch it with a dremel if you have a ver y steady hand.  The dimensions are 8"x6".  This link also has the G-code that you can use to etch with a CNC mill or you could give the G-code to a machine shop.
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Fab_Files

Picture 2 and 3 below is an example of an early power board I made with a Dremel.

You can get a control board from me or you can make the control board in your favorite PCB layout software using the schematic here::
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf
And here are some pictures of the PCB layers:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf

A predone control board is Picture 1.

Pictures 7 and 8 are the power board top and bottom.  The 8 solder spots are just where vias were added.

Once you have the 2 boards, you can go to step 2. 
1-40 of 54Next »
anriocarver says: Feb 13, 2013. 6:01 AM
What is the price for one 144Volt 500Amp already built. Ready to use.
My email address is anriocarver@yahoo.com
I leave in Mauritius.

mihnea1970 says: May 28, 2012. 7:52 AM
Hi,
I can not download the schematics for the control board. Please help.
jimmerforpoy says: Jan 19, 2012. 4:58 PM
Does this work for all ev conversions under 144 volts?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to jimmerforpoyJan 24, 2012. 9:55 AM
Yes.
jongscx in reply to MPaulHolmesMar 5, 2012. 3:24 PM
As a follow-up, Is it possible to "scale down" the design if I'm never getting near the 144V/500A power requirements? Do I just use fewer mosfets and caps?
Nav says: Jan 21, 2012. 12:24 AM
Okay so I am a novice in all things electric car, but I'm wondering if throwing 4 of these controllers into a car with 4 forklift motors somehow connected to the axle would result in a 400HP car? I'm sure it doesn't work like that but could someone please explain the pros/cons of this to me? Thanks and awesome instructable!
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to NavJan 24, 2012. 9:55 AM
Yes you could.
DieCastoms says: Jan 23, 2012. 12:53 PM
Ok, so.. I have what used to be a small-sized 3-wheeled 24-volt "Mobility Scooter". I am building a large RC vehicle out of it.

I need a motor controller for 24 volts that will run the thing either from a wired throttle or eventually a servo output from an RC receiver OR an actual servo mechanically coupled to a pot that is wired to the controller (This should give perfectly isolated power from the vehicle's 24 volt system and the RC's 6 volt system, yes?)

I WANT to have the option to run it via RC or to be able to plug in a wired controller because the vehicle will be large enough to sit on when complete.

Can someone please suggest a source for such a controller? I DO NOT have the original controller from the Mobility Scooter, or I would gladly just use it. I know I could buy another controller for the chair or a similar model, but I would like to see what else gets suggested, first.

Thank You!

DieCastoms.
abdellah309 says: Jan 12, 2012. 10:05 AM
good job Paul, can you post the schemetic of Mosfet stage.
I'm working on electic car project in Algeria.
Many thanks,
epuneet says: Nov 7, 2011. 8:03 AM
Is this circuit work for lower power ratings i.e. for 20 Hp motor
bertzie says: Oct 12, 2011. 7:51 PM
What kind of modifications would need to be done to make it take 170v 2000amp?
IT BITz says: May 12, 2011. 10:52 PM
COOL
Donotmatthews says: Apr 27, 2011. 6:01 PM
I have a 36v forklift motor, I was wondering if this would suffice for a electric car?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to DonotmatthewsApr 27, 2011. 6:49 PM
Probably! If it weighs at least 60 pounds, and has a 1 hour rating on the name plate of at least 100 amps it should work fine. The voltage rating is almost meaningless.
steveastrouk says: Mar 15, 2011. 4:02 AM
How many quadrants is this thing ?

Steve
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to steveastroukMar 15, 2011. 7:37 AM
I don't know what that means. All I know is that it's for a DC motor. There's a single PWM. Reverse happens by putting the car in reverse, and you go forward by putting the car in 1st, 2nd, ...
steveastrouk in reply to MPaulHolmesMar 15, 2011. 7:51 AM
Hi,
A quadrant is the measure of motoring and generating, in forward and reverse.

1st quadrant. is motoring forward, 2nd quadrant is motoring backwards, 3rd is generating backwards, and 4th is generating forwards.

You can implement 1st and 2nd quadrant with a relay, you can't do 3 and 4th without a full bridge.

So essentially, can you do regenerative braking ?

Steve
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to steveastroukMar 15, 2011. 8:40 AM
It's intended to just run series wound DC, which I think usually has problems with regenerative braking, since the brushes are usually advanced, so I didn't make it to do regenerative braking.
steveastrouk in reply to MPaulHolmesMar 15, 2011. 9:27 AM
By "advanced", do you mean the brushes are angled onto the comm. ?

Steve
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to steveastroukApr 10, 2011. 12:59 PM
No, there are different sorts of brush timing. neutral mean forward and reverse can be done basically the same, and I think regen is easier then. When you physically move the brushes more one way or the other around the rotor, it helps to reduce arcing and lets you run at a higher voltage, but then you can't run the motor very well in both directions, and you can't do regen.
steveastrouk in reply to MPaulHolmesApr 10, 2011. 4:54 PM
Thanks for that briefing. Traction motors are not my usual area of expertise - I usually work with precision servo motors, with very low inertias, gold commutators etc !
bumsugger says: Jan 23, 2011. 11:22 AM
What an absolutely stunning project.............I'm blow away by the ingenuity of it all despite not being into all the "save the planet c*ap" thats floating around at the moment.My one reservation is that,with these electric vehicles all being so bloody silent,just what wattage of horn do you need,'specially if'n youve a motorcycle,lighter and faster than a car,and how do you know that you're not going to "flatten" the battery with all the horn tooting?
ivanbakas in reply to bumsuggerJan 25, 2011. 6:55 PM
There are off the shelf very low power consumption "noise makers" that can make an electric vehicle sound like anything you want. Tesla uses it on their cars.
Lets not let small things like that derail a movement to the right direction
ac-dc in reply to bumsuggerJan 23, 2011. 2:14 PM
How about a standard motorcycle horn?

You won't be tootin' the horn enough to make an appreciable difference in battery pack life, they tend to be under 75W and that for a second or two, but it is possible you could be doing it often enough to be a nuisance. ;)

The main way to be safe on a motorcycle is not by making people hear you, it's by making them see you. People have to look around to drive while their ears may be occupied by a cell phone, stereo, etc.
bumsugger in reply to ac-dcJan 24, 2011. 1:20 AM
Stil can't H-E-A-R a fast car or bike ENGINE tho' can you??
Pazzerz says: Jan 24, 2011. 6:40 AM
After following all the links and schematics and BOMs, the thought came to me: Wouldn't it be easier to include all those items in a single .zip file? I have to keep looking to see if I missed something. What do you think?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to PazzerzJan 24, 2011. 9:17 AM
I think that's a really good idea. It's a work in progress, and I still need to transfer some of the G-code from the garage computer which is older than dirt and pre-internet.
steveastrouk says: Jan 23, 2011. 7:30 AM
I'd've been inclined to put more gate drives on here, those Mosfets take some driving. Have you tried it ?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to steveastroukJan 23, 2011. 11:05 PM
(removed by author or community request)
steveastrouk in reply to MPaulHolmesJan 24, 2011. 2:35 AM
Do you use low ESR caps ?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to steveastroukJan 24, 2011. 8:55 AM
For electrolytics, they are very low, and 16 in parallel works out to an Equivalent Series Resistance of maybe 18mOhms. They also are rated for 3000 hours at 105 degC, and much much longer than that at lower temperatures. In practice the capacitors outside stays around 60-65 degC in Phoenix in the summer, so they should last quite a while.
kmpres says: Jan 24, 2011. 3:49 AM
Very nice project! I cut my eye-teeth rebuilding VW Beetles in my teens and wanted to electrify them but electronic controllers back then (mid 70s) were not as advanced or simple to construct as they are today. I'd do it today if I had the space and time. One question: Could you add regenerative breaking to a system like this using just the main motor and differential or would that cause tire traction problems on wet or icy surfaces? Seems to me separate motors in each wheel-well and a system to control them are required and that might be difficult for a DIY VW or Geo Metro conversion, yes?
wirecutter says: Jan 23, 2011. 8:21 AM
A 500 Amp beetle hot stuff and 75 mph with it, my fist bug only ever reached 65mph with all windows fully closed! A nice instructable
Is there a full circuit of it ?
MPaulHolmes (author) in reply to wirecutterJan 23, 2011. 11:00 PM
To borrow a phrase from Napoleon Dynamite, HECK YES THERE IS!
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic_All.pdf
 Although that was a older schematic that used 24 470uF ripple caps.  Now I use 16 1000uF ripple caps. 
madhavdivya says: Jan 23, 2011. 7:40 PM
Great job Ben, can you let us know further details regarding the motor specifications , time and distance between recharging the batteries, etc.
bmwsid says: Jan 23, 2011. 2:04 PM
I have an electric motor from a Cushman Minit miser, it is 24V D.C. I actually might have 3, but I have one on the bench right now.
If anyone would like to buy it, drop me a note. sidcranston@yahoo.com
I have no idea what shipping would cost, but it is pretty hefty.
716-525-4900
afbcom says: Jan 20, 2011. 4:16 PM
Hey,

Just a thought, you could eliminate a lot of voltage spike issues by mounting the controller as close to the motor as possible. Any time the length of the wire between the motor controller exceeds the diameter of the wire, the collapse current becomes significant. Since Vpeak = di/dt, and you have a peak current of ~500 amps, if your switching time is <1ms which I'm guessing it is, this will result in a spike of 500 000 volts! These voltage spikes can damage the control circuitry. This is assuming that you are having voltage spike issues to begin with. Regardless it is typically a good idea to mount the power control board as close as possible to the motor.

-alex
Ziggythewiz in reply to afbcomJan 23, 2011. 10:52 AM
"Any time the length of the wire between the motor controller exceeds the diameter of the wire"

I'm pretty sure every wire I've ever used was longer than it's diameter.
megapix in reply to afbcomJan 21, 2011. 2:44 PM
Just a little correction on the math for the voltage spike. The voltage is V = L * di/dt where L is the inductance of the wire. For a couple of feet of wire this could be around 1uH (microHenry = 10e-6). So for a 1mSec switching time you would have 0.5V, and for a 1uSec switching time you would have a 500V spike. So it is worth being careful about, but not as severe as your calculation.
afbcom in reply to megapixJan 21, 2011. 9:36 PM
thankyou for the correction. Now that I think about it, 500kvolt is a bit large sounding eh?
1-40 of 54Next »
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!