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This is a step-by-step on how your average schmoe can build beautiful "Carriage House" style garage doors.

I'm a computer programmer and this is the first time I've done anything like this.  I made it happen, so I think anybody armed with minimal carpentry skills and these simple instructions could get as good of results!

Finally, if you're looking for similar wood ideas, check out this site.  I'm not affiliated with, nor have I even done business these guys (yet).  I just find the projects are quite inspiring!


UPDATE: Looks like I didn't win anything. :_(
Oh well, many thanks to everyone who voted!

Also I should add that these doors have survived the winter well, including several heavy wind storms.  It appears that the design is sound and should last for quite some time.  (Unlike my shed roof which, well... lets just say there's never a dull moment around here.)

Step 1: The Boring Backstory

Okay, so I recently bought a house and noticed there were slight gaps between the garage doors and the wall.  "Slight", as in, so big you could shake hands with somebody outside -- with the door closed! 

Having heard the horror stories of the limb-rending power of garage door springs I opted to shelve my DIY nature and hire a guy to come out for this one.  The dude looks it over and says, "I could probably fix that if you really want me to, but these kind of doors are such junk that the manufacturer has gone out of business".  Spiffy. 

I had him rip them out, but that left me with gaping holes in my house in the middle of winter.  Uh oh.  Now what?
<p>Thanks for posting such a great and detailed instructable. I recently helped a neighbor build doors based on your ideas here so he can retrofit his garage with a lift for the Triumph cars he collects/restores. The project turned out great!</p>
<p>Hinges. Where did you get your hinges?</p>
The gate hinges can be found at Lowes. <br><br>http://m.lowes.com/pd/Homax-No-Sag-Easygate-Bracket/3262655?
<p>Wow! This looks amazing! Would you mind sharing a few details about the layers you used and where you deviated from PS118's guide? </p><p>Is it just a board fastened to the internal frame, and then decorative trim added on top of that? So your door is a little thinker than PS118's right?<br><br>Id' really like to build this!</p>
I wish we had written it all down and done our own instructable, but roughly&hellip;.we used 2x4s for framing screwed into the steel garden gate hardware in the corners. We added 2x4 boards across the middle in both directions for each door, then attached a 1/8&quot; plywood sheet to the back, filled the cavities with foam insulation board and put another plywood sheet on the front. Attached the whole sandwich together with wood glue and nail gun. Then used wood trim on the front, including a small overlap piece to cover the middle crack. Finally when they were hung, we added trim to the inside of the doorway that had rubber foam attached so when the doors are closed its a good seal against air and light.<br><br>Getting everything square is really important. And our garage door openings were all over the place, and the concrete floor wasn't level either which was a real challenge to get the doors to hang straight, swing together, and not pinch.<br><br>Note also that yes, our doors are probably a bit thicker hat PS118 and because of that we had to add trim pieces around the entire door opening so there was room for the doors to open to 90&deg; because our added face trim made the doors thicker than just the hinge width.<br><br>Hope some of that is helpful.
<p>Thank you so much ColinL. That's brilliant. I'm getting started and am gonna make something like yours and PS118 combined with vertical wood pieces in the recesses and then staining dark brown. It's good that the thickness doesn't make it too heavy for the hinges to support, I was thinking of having 4 hinges/each door just in case. Thanks again, I will post when I'm done. </p>
<p>Those look fantasic!</p>
<p>I like the design, and I like your attitude. I'm not as smart as you, but I might have a little more experience with wood. All in all, I think your plan is doable and nicely presented. Thanks. </p>
<p>Awesome build there! Being an ex-IT manager, i appreciate what you did despite it not being your main job. I am building a house and a single garage with it, plan to put z-wave controllers along, thanks for the amazing writeup!</p>
<p>I notice no diagonal bracing on the doors. How are they doing now? Still square?</p>
Nice Job PS118. You have a very attractive set of doors there! I particularly like the window re-purposing.<br><br>As you know &quot;hind site is....&quot; and like you, I have learned from many mistake in the past so not to dis your work I have a couple of suggestions for anyone considering building there own. <br><br>Toward the end you show the post sitting directly on the concrete. A sign your concerned about it too. At your typical box hardware store you can purchase a 1in. square galvanized post base. <br><br>Like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_108719-72913-ABA44Z_0__?productId=3006427&amp;Ntt=simpson+strong+tie+post+base&amp;pl=1&amp;currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dsimpson%2Bstrong%2Btie%2Bpost%2Bbase&amp;facetInfo= <br><br>Cut off the post short and slide the block underneath. The reason is the lumber will absorb water from the concrete and the wood will rot. Using Pressure treated lumber would help in this regard but it is still not the best. <br><br>Next, even though the door frame doesn't touch the ground &quot;now&quot; they may sag in the future. It looks like you used Douglas Fir or Pine (just a guess) in the frame neither of which is particularly resistant to water damage. It maybe wise to make the frame a little shorter by maybe an inch or even two and let the clapboards fill the gap. That way if the door sags you can trim the clapboard without reducing the strength of the frame and still clear the ground. That keeps the frame clear of water and away from critters.<br><br>Many years ago much if not most of the lumber was kiln dried and therefore it shrank very little over time. Today most wood unless specifically purchased as such is not dried. I purchased 8&quot; dog eared redwood fencing, then it was very close to 8&quot; but today it it's more like 7 1/2&quot; to 7 5/8&quot; and redwood normally shrinks from end to end(dimensionally) rather than side to side. Most other woods shrink from side to side more than end to end. <br><br>What is the point? I would butt the clapboards together rather than leave a gap or at the most I would leave a nails width between the boards. When the boards shrink the gap will still be covered.<br><br>By the way I grew up in and around the mountains and I really took to heart the outline where you mentioned why you move to the area!! Great work!!
<p>Another way to isolate the wood posts from the concrete floor is to nail a piece of vinyl floor tile to bottom of the post. This method is nearly invisible. Just be sure to use rust proof nails (stainless steel, hot dipped galvanized, etc.)</p>
<p>Hello Hivolt,</p><p>I have never tried that. Any &quot;Barrier&quot; is better than none although I tried Galvanized Sheet stock and the critters still got to it. Thanx for the suggestion!</p>
Forgot to mention that we did add an extra hinge in the middle, so 3 hinges on each door to help carry the weight. But overall they are not heavy doors.
<p>I recently bought a new house, but the doors of the house are almost damaged...and they need repairing but i do not know where can i get a fine [url=http://doorslasvegas.com/]Door Repair[/url]...some people suggest me door repair service in las vegas...but i am not satisfied with their service...any other place for doors repairing??? <br>flag[delete]</p>
Nice report, I picked up a few ideas and managed to avoid the mistakes you said you made, was also resigned to the fact that I was going to have to fit and refit the doors. My entry is somewhat wider , so from the beginning I tightened galvanised wire between the upper hinge side and the bottom middle side (if that makes sense). Made all the difference.
Beautiful doors!
In the case of wanting to use the doors to enter and exit, what would you suggest to use to cover it up and look more presentable <br>
This is way awesome! I'm trying to find a place that does <a href="http://www.oleandlenas.com/garage-door-repair-service.html" rel="nofollow">garage door repair in Minneapolis</a>, and was wondering if you had any suggestions as to what to look for when selecting someone who does garage door repair?
That's a good perspective. I like that. <br> <br>Best of luck on your project as well!
I bought carriage &quot;look&quot; doors for my house, love them and the way they look. Now that I am remodeling my barn I wanted a set of doors to match. My garage door is 9' by 11' and hard to find any good looking doors. I searched and searched the Internet for door plans or ideas, very little help. Long story short I decided that worse case I would be out lumber and built my own. <br> <br>They are massive and heavy but I am pleased.
Thank you so much for this post. As you so aptly noted in your tutorial, DIY plans for Carriage Doors on the internet, are NON-existent. I've been looking for some on and off for months. You've helped me clarify my thinking and have provided some excellent explanations. Thanks SO much!!!
Thanks, I appreciate that! :)
Congrats on being a finalist, and good luck!
Perfect. My 1908 house &amp; garage thank you. I thank you.
Nice instructable. You got my vote.<br><br>Two things come to mind; the use of CCA or &quot;Yella Wood&quot; for the 4x4's would eliminate the need for tar, and the use of safety cable inside garage door springs GREATLY reduces the danger of them injuring anyone (or just replace them every 20 years or so...they don't fail that often).

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