CAUTION: Not for beginners!
You must be able to handle with wood etc.
Get a guitar
http://www.ebay.com
http://www.ricardo.ch
A Guitar
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guitar
General documentation
Acoustics for violin and guitar makers
http://www.speech.kth.se/music/acviguit4/
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Signing UpStep 1What you need
1 existing Guitar. (cheap one!)
1 Hotair gun
1 Saw (here japanese)
1 thin small saw (here a automatic). Needed for make small radius cuts. [german: Um sehr enge radien zu sägen.]
1 glue
1 paring chisel (small one, here 6mm) [german: Stechbeitel]
+ Lot of patient and time ;-)
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A test to see how much the soundboard's resonance affects the sound of a guitar: put a guitar on your lap and strum the open strings. Listen to the vibration, sustain, overtones, etc. Now press your other palm down on the soundboard (not too hard, as you don't want to damage it) and strum again. Hear the difference? Try this with the sides and back, too.
If you MUST have a cutaway (do flat-top guitars sound good that high up anyway?), consider a Maccaferi-style that's not too invasive:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7c/Guitares_type_Selmer_Maccaferri.jpg
- The side is wood of the existing body side. So it's natural that there is about 3-5 cm missing on the neck side. Cause bending the side to a longer path will result in missing wood.
- But there on the bottom I cut too much wood away. So, an idea is to have a wire or something like that with show as the curve.
Just make a better and precise template / mask. And don't cut that much wood. So you can cut away what is "too much" later.In short: The curve outline on the bottom and top does need to be that precise. The curve will be done by the body side itself.
Instrument materials, shape, construction will play a huge role in resonance (as you probably know). Sure, you can get decent sound out of almost anything by being a good player and using quality (not necessarily expensive) consumables. But comparing the same consumables on two different designs can show a big difference, if you know what to listen for :P But don't get me wrong, I spent a decent amount of money on a euphonium mouthpiece :P
Kinda like speakers.... Pay hundreds for the driver speaker... and a few dollars on an enclosure -- and you're not going to get as great a sound out of it. The Bose wave thingamabober is all enclosure (instrument), less driver (strings) - for example.
Nice instrucable though :)
Yes sure. But on a existing one, the cutaway will not take affect strings and connection points etc. - Only shape and volume a little bit. So, the sound is nearly the same as before.
In fact, I was able to clean up and finish some wood splitting inside the guitar, witch did some noise before. ;-)
Strings and connection points affect volume, partials and sustain greatly, but not so much the overall tone (at least, as long as you're not comparing strings with two completely different vibrational properties, like nylon vs. steel and wound vs. unwound or roundwound vs. flatwound.) I use the exact same set of D'Addario medium strings on my old beater Epiphone and my beautiful tobacco sunburst Simon & Patrick dreadnaught, but both guitars have a *completely* different tone from each other, owing to their different construction.
A lot of this can be found right in the "part 6" pdf on the acoustics page you linked to above (http://www.speech.kth.se/music/acviguit4/). (See in particular where it talks about how important the back and neck of the guitar can be to the resonances that shape the tone.)
Generally speaking, the smaller "bulb" of the guitar's body (near the neck) produces a high-frequenecy resonant peak, and the bigger bulb produces a lower peak. Together these produce a full sound. (This is why you rarely see "teardrop" shaped guitars, like an "A-style" mandolin.) Change the volume of one part of the cavity and you change the mass of the air that occupies the body, which shifts the resonant peaks and changes the tone. Ditto for removing mass or changing the shape of the front or back. Even the mass of the guitar's neck makes a difference. (See the PDF again. Or, if you want to try an expensive experiment sometime, stick a Stratocaster neck on a vintage Les Paul and see what it comes out sounding like.)
The reason cutaway guitars are more expensive than non-cutaway guitars is because of the extra work required to compensate for the acoustical losses of changing the body cavity volume and the area of the top, the necessary extra load-bearing bracing for the neck, etc. True, the losses may not be that huge to untrained people's ears, but they are there, and in a fine guitar it can create a noticeable difference.
These are not my opinion, they're simply the scientific facts of how sound production works in a guitar.
If your guitar sounds the same to you after doing this mod, I'd argue you probably have either a pretty cheapo guitar or a fairly untrained ear. Nothing wrong with that, except that it's incorrect to say on the basis of it that this won't change your guitar's tone.
The upshot is - thanks for this instructable, it's great (and a bold move!) but people should be warned not to do this to an instrument they care about, because the results will be unpredictable. Real cutaways are designed much more carefully than this, they're not just a regular guitar with a chunk taken out..