This is my first instructable, so please bear with me. Many times in the course of building / re-purposing items for various projects I have encountered a need to add some level of flame resistance to certain elements of the project.

While this procedure won't make any items flame proof, it will minimize the probability of ignition. In this tutorial I will offer a possible solution for flammability problems along with the recipe and the results from a quick and dirty experiment. This technique will only work for natural materials such as wood, cotton, jute, and paper or the like. It will not work for synthetic materials such as polyester, nylon, polypropylene or anything else that did not originally come from a plant or tree.

Step 1: What You Will Need

Borax (sodium borate) laundry booster

A measuring cup

A 1 Tablespoon measuring spoon

An old sauce pan

A storage container

Some sort of applicator ( paint brush, spray bottle, etc)

<p>Tim Hargreaves - Shark Bay, WA Pastor also known as Hargreaves the Handyman.</p><p>Well done mate - I don't know the chemical make-uo of Borax but if as I suspect there is a salt factor then SALT is a good fire inhihitor. The Tamarisk tree sheds a high quantity of salty resin &amp; trying to burn the needles it sheds is extraordinarily difficult just as is the case with seaweed.</p><p>Repetitive spraying of palm fronded partition walls - as likewise any other flammable material - with plain old sea water is a cheap way to help with fire-proofing materials. This of course is against the initial fire risk of a casual flame. At the end of the day almost NOTHING can withstand fire in its extreme expression such as an oxyacetylene flame or a roaring bush fire..</p>
<p>Thanks very much for this. </p><p>We're in the earliest stages of making papier mache ceiling tiles for our home, and this will allay a few concerns.</p>
<p>It should work well with papier mache. Are you planning ti add it to the mix or treat the tiles after they are finished? Thanks for the kind words</p>
<p>I'm on the fence about that- the spray approach would be less iffy to the formula, I'm thinking, but also less convenient/ thorough. We're still experimenting with our goop formula, although we're doing a first &quot;final&quot; tile today. Thinking I'll add it to the &quot;goop&quot; at the tail end of the cooking process, today, just before running it through the chopper to make it into &quot;clay&quot; [and adding the dyes]. I&quot;ll share photos later if you like.</p>
<p>Just great!...Can this be used on wood?, is there someting you can add or finish off that will make the product stick or adhere better or permanently?</p>
<p>It should soak into wood, but would likely take a good bit. </p>
Yes it can be used on wood. It should soak in somewhat. I am not aware of any finish but you may be able to add it to a waterbased paint,<br>
<p>Wow, just read through the procedure and comments. KUDOS to you folks all around. I am a forensic science teacher in Modesto, and we are using your formula and method to have the students investigate the recent Ghost Ship fire. Specifically, after examining the facts so far in the far over five sources, and answer the standard &quot;who, what, etc for all, then compounding retardants to see if this process would have provided a measure of protection for the inhabitants (not encouraging the apparent failure on several parties and levels to provide common sense hazard mitigation). Thank you for posting folks!</p>
<p>Thanks, I'm glad it is useful</p>
Excellent! Thank you!
<p>FYI...when I applied this to our curtains at our school and the fire inspector showed up, he said that this was not acceptable unless it was tested by a laboratory with a copy of the test report. So, I wound up purchasing a fire retardant called Flamex PF which worked better than this formula and was accepted for code.</p>
Good to know. Thanks for letting the community know. In general it is a good idea to use 3rd party certified products when in a public environments.<br><br>Brominated flame retardants are very effective. The Flamex PF you mention uses ammonium bromide instead of Borax.
Not sure where you got your information from but our Flamex PF does NOT contain bromides! Don't post things that you're not sure of since you may be held liable.
<p>Not sure what I can be liable for. Although I did make a mistake and referenced a product from Rosco called Flamex PA, not Flamex PF.</p><p>Perhaps you should be more concerned about another company operating in the FR space with a product with an almost identical name than trying to bully people who write instructables. </p><p>I took a look at your vague MSDS and based on the decomposition products, I think I have a pretty good idea what your &quot;proprietary&quot; materials are. Perhaps I need to upgrade this instructable to use a similar water soluble material.</p><p>Below is a link to Flamex PA MSDS</p><p><a href="http://www.rosco.com/technotes/scenic/msds/flamex/MSDS_RoscoFlamex_SF_DF_PA.pdf" rel="nofollow">rosco.com/technotes/scenic/msds/flamex/MSDS_RoscoFl...</a></p>
<p>You tell him lol :-)</p><p>I actually appreciate the time and effort you took to put this together, and I thank you for doing so. I do think people (mnn) should also try and make light of fact that this person has gone out of their way to compile information to help others, rather than trying to beat them down.</p><p>Kudos to you Author :-)</p>
<p>Thank you</p>
<p>Thanks for letting the community know. In general it is a good idea from the point of view for the chemistry.</p>
<p>Are you trying to spray while it is still hot? It needs to cool to ambient temperature before use. Some of the borax will fall out of solution as it cools. Don't worry about this precipitate. As applied, the solution should be a saturated at the application temperature. Saturated solutions are temperature dependent. Low temperature means that the carrier (water) can hold less of the solute (Borax), higher temperature, more. I have never tried to apply it hot but would expect exactly what you describe. If you want to apply it hot, a brush might be a better applicator or maybe you could scale up the solution and dip your part. Sorry for the delay in responding I was traveling and just got back . I'm not sure about other carriers, I don't think that Borax is soluble in alcohol or mineral spirits. </p><p>Hope this is helpful</p><p>Good Luck</p>
<p><strong>&quot;(B4O5(OH)4)2-&quot; Boiled In &quot;H2O&quot; Re-Solidifies Too Quick &amp; Clogs Orifices...</strong></p><p><em>GIVEN:</em></p><p>1. My Borax re-solidifies when it begins cooling and that clogs my stuff, dude!</p><p>2. At 160F, I observed the Borax began to separate from the clear water slightly. </p><p>3. At 110F, I observed the Borax separate almost completely and pile up.</p><p><em>QUESTION 1: Should I boil for longer? </em></p><p>FYI, I boiled it a second round for 7 minutes: it still re-solidifies around 110F.</p><p><em><br></em></p><p><em>QUESTION 2:</em><em> Will adjusting the pH have the effect of lowering the working temperature to a magnitude that won't melt my spray bottles and allow the borax to flow past the tiny pump mechanisms and the orifice?</em></p><p><em>QUESTION 3: Is there anything besides water (such as rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits) that will work better and not interact with #1 and #2 plastic spray bottles?</em></p>
Great instructable!<br> Most recipes include adding boric acid to the solution.

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