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Step 12Prepare Piezo/Headphone Jack
Now that we've got the "physical" parts finished, we'll start working on the electronics. Start by cutting a section of wire (per cymbal) about 6-7 inches long, and strip both ends.
How the wiring is actually done is up for debate. I've been able to determine the following:
1. The outer rim of the headphone jack is the positive side
2. The inner circle of the piezo is the positive
3. It may or may not matter how you actually wire the piezo
To be sure, I wired positive-to-positive. I'm sure somebody out there knows if this is actually necessary. I started by threading the wire through the holes in the connectors of the headphone jack and bending them over to hold them into place, then soldering the wires on.
This is probably a good place to mention that my soldering skills are decidedly subpar. I already know this, there's no need for you to tell me.
Anyway, wire is soldered to the jack, solder the other end to the piezo. I used electrical tape to hold them together while I fumbled around with the solder. After the solder dried, for good measure, I slapped some silicone caulk over the wire and connections, hoping this would help keep the "structural" integrity of the piece (knowing these wires tend to break off, as they have inside my drum set a good number of times).
Once the whole thing is assembled, set it aside to dry.
How the wiring is actually done is up for debate. I've been able to determine the following:
1. The outer rim of the headphone jack is the positive side
2. The inner circle of the piezo is the positive
3. It may or may not matter how you actually wire the piezo
To be sure, I wired positive-to-positive. I'm sure somebody out there knows if this is actually necessary. I started by threading the wire through the holes in the connectors of the headphone jack and bending them over to hold them into place, then soldering the wires on.
This is probably a good place to mention that my soldering skills are decidedly subpar. I already know this, there's no need for you to tell me.
Anyway, wire is soldered to the jack, solder the other end to the piezo. I used electrical tape to hold them together while I fumbled around with the solder. After the solder dried, for good measure, I slapped some silicone caulk over the wire and connections, hoping this would help keep the "structural" integrity of the piece (knowing these wires tend to break off, as they have inside my drum set a good number of times).
Once the whole thing is assembled, set it aside to dry.
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Dec 9, 2010. 6:57 PMChainfire
says:
I'm working on another unrelated project, but i need piezo elements like the one displayed (simple without circuits attached, or housing). Do you know where I can find some?
Reply
Dec 9, 2010. 7:01 PMChainfire
says:
as in, not on eBay.
Reply
1
Dec 10, 2010. 6:35 AMjmrank (author)
says:
Sorry... nope, I got mine on eBay...
Reply
Sep 3, 2009. 10:28 AMemko562
says:
well the problem was that my jack fried somehow but this method WORKED!! thanks alot saved me like 20 buck on buying the whole new thing oh i don't have a solder iron so i used a tad of hot glue and for the meanwhile it's great i will solder it in the future thanks!!!!!
Reply
Sep 2, 2009. 7:41 PMemko562
says:
can I use this method and put the piezo an jack on my broken cymbal???
Reply
1
Sep 3, 2009. 5:38 AMjmrank (author)
says:
I don't see why not, if you can find a way to mount the jack... you could probably even re-use the jack that's already there (assuming it's not broken).
Reply
May 4, 2009. 1:37 PMGnomad
says:
It doesn't matter. As long as it completes the circuit.
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