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Picture of Homemade Indiana Jones Pinball Machine
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   This is my homemade Indiana Jones themed pinball machine that I'm currently working on. This pinball machine will not use any electronics. It will be all mechanical including making sounds, as well as keeping score. This project was started to get a large pinball machine to use no electricity, which most pinball machines consume a lot of electricity. I hope that this project will inspire you to find other ways to do things that you love, by making it green.

*NOTE:
   There will be more steps to come. Do to project not being finished. Additional things that will be done to the pinball machine and added as a step later on is there will be one more ball ramp, graphics will be added to the table/parts, plaster casted rocks will line both the left and right interior walls of the pinball machine. There will be more vintage toys, such as gas barrels, bike, etc.. Check back at a later time to follow the progress as well as subscribe to me on YouTube at The Pinball Maker Channel to see updated videos.

WARNING:
  The following picture's may have other objects in the picture that we haven't talked about yet, do to having already done things to the pinball machine before taking these pictures.

Tools Needed for Project:
   *Pinball's
   *Drill
   *Philips Bit
   *3/32" Drill Bit
   *3/8" Drill Bit
   *1/2" Drill Bit
   *Drill Bit Depth Stopper
   *Skill Saw
   *Miter Saw
   *Band Saw or Scroll Saw
   *Tin snips
   *Pliers
   *Wire Cutters
   *Chisel
   *Ruler
   *Caulk Line
   *Screw sink bit
   *Clamps
   *Putty Knife
   * Heat Gun
   *Painting Supplies "Brush, Roller, etc."
 
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Step 1: Building the Pinball Machine Box

Picture of Building the Pinball Machine Box
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Materials Needed for Step #1:
   * 1 5/8" Coarse Drywall Screws
   * 1 - Sheet of 3/4" Plywood 4'x8'
   * 2 - 4"x4" Lumber 8' Long
   * 2 - 2"x6" Lumber 6' Long
   * 8 - 3/8" x 8" Long Hex Bolt
   * 8 - 3/8" Hex Nut
   * 8 - 3/8" ID "Inside Diameter" Washer
   * 8 - 3/8" ID "Inside Diameter" Lock Washer
   * 2 - "L" Shaped brackets
   * 4 - Self Leveling Feet

Cutting the Wood for the Pinball Machine Box:
   You will first need to cut the pinball machine box walls. To do this you will need to lay out a sketch of the walls on a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" thick plywood. It is a good idea to have the longest lengths measured out on the edge of the plywood. This will give you one straight line to measure from and one less edge to cut. Measure out a length of 48" for the bottom edge of the wall. Now you will need to to measure out the height. The front of the pinball machine wall height will be 10" and the back of the pinball machine wall height will be 18" "Remember to do this twice for two walls." Once you mark your lines and use a caulk line to get straight lines. Next you will need to layout the front and back walls. For the front wall measure out a height of 10" and a length of 25 1/2" For the back wall measure out a height of 18" and a length of 25 1/2" "Remember to use a caulk line to get nice straight lines. Once the lines are drawn out then cut them out with a skill saw.

   Once the walls are cut out it is time to cut the lumber for the base of the cabinet to hold the walls together with your miter saw. Get your 2"x6"x6' lumber and cut out two lengths of 48" for the sides. Next cut out two lengths of 21" for the back and front wall supports. Next cut out the legs from two 4"x4"x8' lumbers. You will need four legs the length of 31 1/2".

Assembling the Pinball Machine Box:
   Once all of the above lumber is cut out we will need to assemble the pinball machine box. First lay the side wall support 2"x6" down. Then lay the side wall panel down on top of the 2"x6". Line up the bottom of the side wall with the bottom of the 2"x6". Make sure that you temporarily support the top of the side wall when laying it down so that the wall will not teeter totter. Once every thing is lined up, you will start to attach them together. You will first need to drill three pilot holes with a 3/32" drill bit and counter sink the holes. Then screw them together using a 1 5/8" screw. Make sure that you are screwing first though the wall then into the 2"x6" support. After you have completed one side follow same instructions on the other side.

   For the front and back wall you will use the same technique for both walls. First lay down your 2"x6" wall supports. Next lay the front wall onto the support while supporting the top so it doesn't teeter totter. Line the bottom of the wall to the bottom of the wall support. Next center the wall support to the center of the wall. You should have 2 1/4" wall over hang on both sides of the support. Once every thing is lined up, you will start to attach them together. You will first need to drill four pilot holes with a 3/32" drill bit and counter sink the holes. Then screw them together using a 1 5/8" screw. Make sure that you are screwing first though the wall then into the 2"x6" support. After you have completed the front side follow same instructions on the back side.

   Next you will need to drill pilot holes with a 3/32" drill bit and counter sink the holes where the walls will be screwed into each other. Now once you have done this, then you will need to stand up one side wall and then the back wall and screw the walls together. Next stand up the other side wall and screw it to the back wall. Then stand up the front wall and mount it to both the side walls. Once they are screwed together take one L-Shaped bracket and mount it towards the top of the out side of the back wall and to the outside of the side wall to. Next repeat the same step to the other side. Since the front wall is not to high, you will not need L-Shaped brackets. If you want to you still can.

Attaching Self Leveling Feet:
   To attach the feet you will need to find the center of the bottom of the pinball machine leg. Since we are using a 4"x4" we will need to measure 1 3/4" from one side and then measure 1 3/4" from the other side. This should be your center point. Drill a 3/8" hole "Or recommended size for the legs that you have", the depth of the Leveling feet. Once you have drilled the hole insert the self leveling foot and tap it in using a hammer. Repeat step for all pinball machine legs.

Attaching the Legs to the Pinball Machine:
   Now that the box is together we can now attach the legs to the box. First measure 2" down from the top of the 2"x6" side support and 1 3/4" from the back wall support. Next using a 3/8" drill bit drill a hole into that marked spot. Find out which side of the leg will be facing the back wall support. Then measure the side that will be mounting to the side wall. Measure 2" down from the top of the 4"x4" and 1 3/4" from the back side of the 4"x4" which will be attached to the back wall support. Then drill a hole into the marked area. Make sure that all holes are drilled straight through and not at an angle. Now measure 3 1/2" down from the 2"x6" back wall support and measure 1 3/4" from the side wall support. Now once you have this mark use your 3/8" drill bit and drill a hole straight through. Next you want to measure 3 1/2" down from the predetermined back side of the pinball machine leg. Next measure 1 3/4" from the side wall support. Once you have your mark drill a 3/8" hole straight through the leg. Once all of the holes are drilled line the leg up with the holes. Next take your 3/8" bolt and put a 3/8" ID washer on it. Then Insert bolt from out side the box through the leg and add the 3/8" ID locking washer on it and screw the 3/8" nut on and tighten. When this leg is complete repeat the same steps for all of the other legs.

Step Three Reminders, Tips and Tricks:
   * Always drill straight holes.
   * Always Pre-Drill your holes to cause less splitting.
   * When Pudding the screw holes make sure you get a good flat/smooth sanding.
   * If you assemble your pinball machine first before painting then do not paint the threads on the bolts that hold the legs onto the pinball box. This will make it hard to unscrew the bolt at a later time.
   * When cutting the walls with a skill saw make sure you you know which side is going to be the inside of the pinball machine and cut from that side. This will cause less splintering damage to the outside of the box.

Step 2: Prepping the box for Pinball playing field

Picture of Prepping the box for Pinball playing field
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Materials Needed For Step 2:
   * 2 - 2"x2" Lumber 8' Long
   * 1 5/8" Coarse Drywall Screws
   * 2'x4' 3/4" Birch Plywood

Cutting and Building the resting platform:
   First cut two 2"x2" 37" long and two 2"x2" 23 7/8" long. Next measure 12 1/2" from the bottom of the back wall up. Now draw a line across the back wall. From the line you just drawn measure down 3/4" and mark three spots that a screw will be screwed into. Now drill a pilot hole in each mark and counter sink the holes on the outside of the box. Next take one 2"x2" 23 7/8" long and make sure the top of the lumber is placed on the line. Next screw it together from the out side.

   Next take the other 23 7/8" long 2"x2" and place it on top of the front wall support. This is where it will be mounted. Draw a line across the top of the 2"x2" lumber onto the front wall support. From the line you just drawn measure down 3/4" and mark three spots that a screw will be screwed into. Now drill a pilot hole in each mark and counter sink the holes on the outside of the box. Next take one 2"x2" 23 7/8" long and make sure the top of the lumber is placed on the line. Next screw it together from the out side.

   Now you will need to draw a line on the side wall. Take a caulk line and put one end to the back wall mark and the other end to the line on the front wall and snap it. Follow this step on the other side wall. This will be the angle of your pinball playing field board. A typical pinball machine playing field will have a 6%-7% playing field. Before moving on place the 2'x4' birch plywood into the box. Then go under the table and make sure that your lines on the side walls match the bottom of the birch plywood. If everything is good then take the plywood off. Once you are done making sure that the line is right then measure 3/4" down from the line and pilot drill four holes make sure that you leave at least a 8" space between the front 2"x2" and this 2"x2". You need to leave room for the flipper mechanism underneath the play field. Once you have figured this out then mount the 2"x2"x37" long to the side wall. Once done follow the same instructions on the other side.

Cutting the Hole for the Flipper Levers:
  You should still have the line drawn on the side walls for the playing field supports. This will be the top of the hole that you will cut. We will be cutting out a rectangle shape. With the line being the top of the rectangle we need to measure 2 3/4" from the back of the front wall. This will be the front of the hole that we will have. Now measure 1 1/4" more and that will be the end of the rectangle. Now measure 7/8" down from the top line. Once all of the marks are made connect the dots and then you have your self a rectangle to cut out. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill a hole close to one corner and another hole on the opposite corner. Next use your jigsaw and cut out the hole. Once your done with one side follow the same instructions on the other side.

Step 3: Putting, Priming and Painting

Picture of Putting, Priming and Painting
Materials Needed For Step 3:
   * Wood Putty "Paint-able"
   * Sand Paper 120 or 180 Grit
   * 1 - Quart of Primer
   * 1 - Quart of Paint "Color: Olive Drab"

Putting, Priming and Painting:
   Once everything is together you can now put your finishing touches on it. First you will need to fill in all of those ugly screw holes on the out side of the box using a wood putty. When the wood putty has dried you can sand it down flush with the wood using a 180 or 120 grit sand paper. When done sanding then wipe down the wood to be primed. Now you can primer and paint it. I used an Olive Drab Green for the color of my pinball machine box.

Step Three Reminders, Tips and Tricks:
   * Do not paint the playing field supports that where screwed on in step 2.
   * When Putting the screw holes make sure you get a good flat/smooth sanding.
   * If you assemble your pinball machine first before painting then do not paint the threads on the bolts that hold the legs onto the pinball box. This will make it hard to unscrew the bolt at a later time.

Step 4: Pinball Flippers

Materials Needed For Step 4:
   * 3"x4'x3/4" thick Lumber "A Hardwood Preferred"
   * 1/2" Dowel Rod
   * 1 - 2'x2'x1/4' thick plywood
   * 6 - 3 1/2' x 1/4" Rubber Bands
   * 1 1/2" Wood Screws
   * 1 1/4" Wood Screws
   * 1" Wood Screws

Prepping Above Table Flippers:
   First we will cut out the pinball flippers. The length of the flipper will be 3 1/2" long. The thickest area of the flipper is 1 3/8" wide and the smallest area is 3/4" wide. Next make sure that you round both ends. Once the flipper is cut you will need to measure 5/8" from the thickest area of the flipper and center the mark between each side. now take that point and drill a 1/2" hole all the way through the flipper. Next cut 3" of a 1/2" dowel rod. Once you are done cutting find the side of the flipper that you want facing up and flip it over so that it is face down. Next insert the 1/2" dowel rod into the hole and make sure that it sits flush with the side facing down. Next you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole and counter sink it on the end of the thickest side of the flipper and with a depth of 1 1/4". Now screw in a 1 1/4" screw into the pilot hole. This screw should go all the way through the 1/2" dowel rod. Next find the end skinny end of the flipper and find the center point and mark that spot. You will need to use this in a later on step. Follow these instructions with the other flipper and set them aside.

   After you have completed the flippers you need to measure 7 3/4" from the left side of the board and measure 5 3/8" from the bottom of the board. Next measure 14 1/2" from the left side and 5 3/8" from the bottom of the board. These two areas you will need to drill a 1/2" hole all the way through the board. Make sure that the holes is as straight as possible and drill the hole from the top of the board so that if you have any splintering it will happen on the bottom. Next measure 10 1/4" from the left side of the board and 4 1/4" from the bottom and mark it. Next measure 11 7/8" from the left side and 4 1/4" from the bottom and mark it. You will need these marks in a later on step to line up the flippers.

Prepping Under Board Flipper Mechanism:
   First we will cut out all of the wood for the flipper mechanism. We will need to cut out two 3/4" thick 4 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide pieces of wood. Next you will need to measure 1" down from one of the short sides and center it between the two longer sides and then drill a 1/2" hole all the way through it. Next measure 1/2" from the other end of the flipper and center the line in between the side. Next drill a 3/32" hole 1/2" deep. Once the hole is drilled then screw in a 1 1/4" wood screw. Make sure that it doesn't go all the way through. It only needs to go in about 1/2". This screw is one of the ends that the 3 1/2" rubber band will attach to. Next repeat these steps for the other under board flipper. Once you are done with both flippers then set them aside.

  Next cut out a small 3/4" thick flipper stopper block that measures 2" long by 1 1/2" wide. Next cut out two pieces of 1/4" thick plywood. One will measure 7 1/2" long by 3 1/2" wide. Next take that piece of wood and from the right side of the of the short side measure left 3/4" and measure 3 5/8" to the left. Next measure 1 3/8" from the bottom and measure another line of 2 1/4" from the bottom. Connect all of the lines and it should look like a rectangle. You will need to now cut out this rectangle out with a scroll saw. Next cut out the second 1/4" plywood 5 1/2" long and 3 1/2" wide. Next take that piece of wood and from the left side of the short side measure 3/4" to the right, also measure 3 3/4" from the right side. Next measure 1 3/8" from the bottom and measure another line of 2 1/4" from the bottom. Connect all of the lines and it should look like a rectangle. You will need to now cut out this rectangle out with a scroll saw. Next cut out two pieces of 3/4" wood measuring 7 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide. Also you will need to cut out two pieces of 3/4" wood measuring 5 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide.

Assembling the Flipper Mechanism:
   Flip over the board so that the bottom of the board is facing up. Next we will start on the right top playing field flipper channel. When looking at the bottom of the board this will be on the left side. Start by measuring 1 3/4" from the bottom of the board. Take the 7 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide and 3/4" thick wood and place it on the line ("from the bottom of the line up, the piece of wood should be on the top part of the line") and line it up with the left side of the board. Next measure 4 1/8" from the bottom of the board and line the second piece of wood that is 7 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide on the second line. There should be a 1 3/16" gap in between each piece of wood. Next place the 7 1/2" long by 3 1/2" wide 1/4" thick piece of wood on top of those other pieces of wood and line it up with those woods. Next clamp it down so it doesn't move. Now pre-drill four 3/32" holes two on each side of the channel and screw in a 1 1/2" wood screws in each of the four holes. Next from the channel where the under board flipper will touch measure 3 1/2" left and 2" from the bottom of the channel. Now pre-drill a 3/32" hole 1/2" deep and screw in a 1 1/4" wood screw of a depth of 1/2". Follow the same steps for the other channel which is for the left playing field flipper. All of the measurements are the same on the other side as well.

   You may need two people for this step. Now take one of the playing field flippers and insert a 1/2" ID nylon washer onto the 1/2" dowel rod. Next insert the dowel rod into the hole that you pre-drilled earlier. Once it is pushed through check and make sure that it turns with little friction, but not to loose. Now place another 1/2" nylon washer on the dowel rod from the back side. Next insert the under board flipper onto the dowel rod. Now once you have made it to this step you need to look under the board which should be the playing field side which is faced down and take the line that you drew on the board and the line that was placed on the small end of the flipper and line them up. Once those lines are lined up take the under board flipper and make the bottom end pressed up against the channel. This will be the starting point for both flippers. Also make sure to hold together both flippers tightly. Next pre-drill a 3/32" hole in the side of the flipper through the 1/2" dowel rod and a depth of 1" Next insert a 1" wood screw. This will hold everything together. You should have some of the 1/2" dowel rod sticking out and this will be fine. Check and make sure that when you move the bottom flipper that the top playing field flipper will move. Next place a 3 1/2" rubber band from the flipper screw to the channel screw. Make sure that you do not place the rubber band on the threaded part of the screw. This will shorten the life of the rubber band. Once you are done with this flipper then follow the same steps on the other flipper. Next you can put two 3 1/2" rubber bands on each of the playing field flippers for there bumpers.

Flipper Buttons:
   First cut one 3/4" thick piece of wood 11 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide and cut another 3/4" thick piece of wood 9 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide. Next take one end of the wood and round the corners "Not to much and not to little". Now sand down the top and bottom of the long sections of the flipper sticks about 1/16". Do this with both flipper sticks. Next take the longer piece and insert it into the longer channel which should be the right playing field flipper. Make sure that it is not to tight. If so then sand a little more. Now slide it all the way in until it barley touches the under board flipper. Now it the channel groove that you cut out in a earlier step make the farthest wall from the flipper. Cut two 1/2" dowel rods measuring 1 1/4" long. Next pull out the flipper stick and and take one of those dowel rods that you cut and place one end on the line. Make sure that the dowel rod is on the side that is closes to the round end side and center it between the two sides. Now draw a circle around it and drill out the 1/2" circle. Place the flipper stick back into the channel and then insert the dowel rod into the hole. Make sure when you insert the dowel rod it doesn't go all the way through the flipper stick. You do not want to cause any friction. Now follow the same steps and sizes on the other channel with the other flipper stick.

Step Four Reminders, Tips and Tricks:
   * When drilling a hole all the way through the wood it is a good idea to place a scrap piece of wood on the other side from where you are drilling. This will help with these splintering.
   * Drill the holes as straight as possible, so that you do not have any hang up.
 

Step 5: Pinball Plunger Release Channel

Picture of Pinball Plunger Release Channel
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Materials needed for step 5:
   * 1 - 3/4" thick by 21 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide piece of wood.
   * 1 5/8" Wood Screws
   * 1"  Sheet Metal Screws
   * 26 Gauge thick Sheet Metal
   * 1 - Coat Hanger
   * 1 3/4" thick by 4" wide by 12" long Piece of Wood

Pinball Channel:
   First cut out a 3/4" thick by 21 1/2" long by 1 1/8" wide piece of wood. Next measure 1" from the right side of the pinball board by the pinball plunger. Now go up about one foot and measure 1" from the right side Now these lines with be the right side of the left plunger channel wall. Next take the piece of wood that you just cut out and place the 3/4" thick side face down onto the board with the right side on the line and the tail end of it against the front of the pinball machine. Now pre-drill three 3/32" hole evenly down this piece of wood a depth of 1 5/8". Now counter sink the holes. Next screw it down using 1 5/8" wood screws.

   Next take your 3/4" thick by 4" wide by 12" long piece of wood and draw out the next measurements. First measure the total length of 12" and cut it to that size. Now the right side of the longest part of the wood will stay this size. On the left side you will measure 2" up from the bottom and also measure 8" up from the bottom. Now from the first measurement you will do a concave circle from this point to the bottom right corner. Next you will take the second measurement and do a concave circle from this line to the top right corner of the wood. Next cut those lines out with a band saw or scroll saw. Once you have cut this piece of wood out we will place it on the board. The longest section of wood will go up against the right side of the pinball machine just right above the channel. Measure 9 3/4" from the bottom of the pinball playing field. This is where the bottom right corner of that piece of wood that you cut out will go. Next pre-drill two holes to mount this to the board and screw a 1 1/4" wood screw into both holes.

Plunger Channel Gate:
   You will need to use pliers to bend the sheet metal and coat hanger. Now from your 26 gauge thick piece of sheet metal you will need to cut out a 4 1/8" long by 1/2" wide section using tin snips. Next drill four holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Measuring from the bottom one will be at 1/4". Then the second at 11/16". The third at 3 3/32" and the fourth at 3 15/16" Next bend the metal up from the bottom at 1/2". Then bend it down at 7/8" and down again at 3" Lastly bend it up at 3 5/8".

   Next cut a section of coat hanger 5" long. This coat hanger will be bent many times as well. The first bend we will start with the left to right same as the picture. Bend it up at 1/2" down at 1" up at 2" up at 3 1/2" down at 4 1/2" down at 5". Now looking at this at the top view. Everything should be in a straight line. Now from the top view with the first bend that you did to the left and the last bend to the right. You will need to take the last bend and bend it towards you at a 45 degree angle up.

   Now take the right side of the coat hanger and insert it into the second hole from the right of the sheet metal that you bent. Next you may have to do some tweaking, but insert the left side into the second hole from the left of the sheet metal. Now that you have your gate made you need to attach it to the plunger channel exit. Using the left over drilled holes, mark where you will need to pre-drill. Next drill a 5/32" hole and screw it down using two 1" coarse sheet metal screws.

Step 6: Pinball Plunger

Picture of Pinball Plunger
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Materials Needed for Step 6:
   * JB Weld
   * 1 - 3/8" by 8" long Hex Bolt
   * 1 - 3/8" Nylon hex nut cap
   * 1 - 3/8" Hex nut with built on washer
   * 2 - 3/8" ID Washers
   * 1 - Wooden Cabinet Knob
   * 1 - Pinball Plunger Spring
   * 1 - Barrel Spring
   * 1 - 3/4" thick piece of wood 1" long by 1" wide

Check this pinball plunger video out on youtube.


   Take your 3/4" thick by 1" long by 1" wide piece of wood and measure 1/2" long and 1/2" from the side. Drill a 3/8" hole all the way through it. Next take the block and place it into the pinball plunger channel all the way agianst the front of the machine. Take a pencil and draw a circle through this block onto the front wall. Now take out the playing field and drill a 3/8" hole at the same angle as the playing field. This hole needs to go all the way through. After drilling the hole you can JB weld one 3/8 ID washer on the inside and one on the outside. Next take your wooden cabinet knob and drill a 5/8" hole into it and only a depth of 1/4". Next JB weld the knob to the end of the hex bolt. Make sure that it is on straight. Once everything is dried you can now assemble the plunger. First insert the barrel spring onto the hex bolt. Then insert it into the hole through the pinball machine. Next insert the plunger spring and screw on the hex nut/washer all the way down. Now insert the block of wood and screw on the nylon hex nut cap. Now you are ready to try it out.

Step 7: Flipper Channels

Picture of Flipper Channels
Materials Needed for Step 7:
   * 1 1/4" Round Slot Screws
   * 2' by 2' by 1/4" thick Plexiglass
   * 3 1/4" by 1/4" Rubber Bands
   * 12 - 1/2" long Nylon Spacers
   * 12 - 1/8" ID Nylon Washers
   * 1 - 22" long by 3" wide and 3/4" thick piece of wood.

Cutting The Flipper Channels:
   In this step please refer to the pictures below for an exact measurement and degree of cuts. This step is a little to hard to explain on how to cut them and where to drill the pilot holes. But you can cut out the plexiglass with a scroll saw or band saw. After cutting out these pieces of plexiglass you will need to round the corners with the scroll saw or band saw. Except the corners that will be butting up against the playing field flippers. You will need to mark a concave circle from one corner to the other and cut it out. This way the pinball will flow down the channel and there will be less gap in between the plexiglass and flippers. The holes that you need to drill need to be done slowly so that you don't crack the plexiglass. Also make sure the screws slide in the pre-drilled holes with out screwing in or it will crack the plexiglass.

Assembling the Flipper Channels:
  All of the following measurements will be done on the playing field board and will be measured from the left and from the bottom. Make sure that you mark each spot, because you will need to pre-drill the spots with a 3/32" bit after marking the spots. But be for you pre-drill the holes lay out the pieces on the playing field and make sure the holes line up. If not then remark the holes.

Holes:
   1) 6 5/8" left and 6" up.
   2) 2" left and 8 1/2" up.
   3) 2" left and 11 3/4" up.
   4) 6 1/8" left and 8 1/2" up.
   5) 3 7/8" left and 9 7/8" up.
   6) 3 7/8" left and 12" up.
   7) 15 1/2" left and 6" up.
   8) 20 1/4" left and 8 1/2" up.
   9) 20 1/4" left and 11 3/4" up.
   10) 16" left and 8 1/2" up.
   11) 18 1/4" left and 9 7/8" up.
   12) 18 1/4" left and 12" up.

   Now place the plexiglass where it needs to go. From the top you will need to take one of the 1 1/4" Round Slot Screws and insert a 1/8" ID nylon washer onto it. Next slide it into one of the plexiglass holes then insert a 1/2" nylon spacer on the other side. Once you do this to all the holes then you can screw them down to the board. Once everything is screwed down to the board use the 3 1/4" rubber bands and place multiple rubber bands on each flipper channel bumper. I do two high and about four deep.

Pinball Return:
   You will need to cut a 22" long by 2" wide piece of wood. Next measure on the short right side measure 1" from the bottom and draw a line from this mark to the top left corner. Next cut this line out. Now put the thick end to the left of the pinball machine and the longer side all the way against the front of the pinball machine. Once this is in place you can pre-drill and counter sink three evenly spaced holes along this piece of wood of a depth of 1 1/4" and screw it down with 1 1/4" wood screws.


At this point you can check out part one video of this pinball machine.


Step Seven Reminders, Tips and Tricks:
   * Pre-drill holes slowly through the plexiglass so that it wont crack. Practice test on a couple of scrap pieces to test on.
  

Step 8: Multiball and Channel

Picture of Multiball and Channel
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Materials Needed for Step 8:
   * 1/4" Thick Plywood
   * 3/4" Thick Wood
   * 1" Round Slot Wood Screws
   * 1 1/4" Wood Screws
   * 1" Round Slot Wood Screws
   * 1 1/2" Round Slot Wood Screws
   * 26 Gauge Thick sheet metal
   * Coat Hanger
   * 2 - 1" Nylon spacers
   * 1 - 3 1/4" Rubber Band

Left Playing Field Channel:
   Cut a 3/4" thick 15" long by 2 1/2" wide. Next lay the piece of the wood so that the left side is the longest side of the wood. Next take three measurements up from the bottom right side at 1 3/4", 11", and 12". From the 1 3/4" measurement and 11" measurement you will need to draw a concave circle in between each measurement. Now from the 12" measurement draw a concave circle from that line to the left top corner. Next cut out those two concave circles. Now the longest side will go up against the left of the pinball table. Measure 16" up from the bottom of the pinball playing field board and place the bottom of the channel at this point. Pre-drill and counter sink two 3/32" holes into the piece of wood and screw in 1 1/4" wood screws.

Multi Ball Release:
   Look at the pictures below for measurements and to get a good look at the shape that you need to cut out. These cut outs are to hard to ex-plane. But you will need to cut out a bottom plate out of 1/4" and you will cut out the other pieces from 3/4" thick wood. Then you will pre-drill and counter sink 1 1/2" wood screws through the 3/4" thick wood, through the 1/4" thick plywood and into the pinball playing field.

Multi Ball Gate:
   You will need to use pliers to bend the sheet metal and coat hanger. Now from your 26 gauge thick piece of sheet metal you will need to cut out a 3 1/2" long by 1/2" wide section using tin snips. Next drill four holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Measuring from the bottom one will be at 1/4". Then the second hole at 3/4". The third at 2 3/4" and the fourth at 3 1/4". Next bend the metal up from the bottom at 1/2". Then bend it down at 1" and down again at 2 1/2". Lastly bend it up at 3".

   Next cut a section of coat hanger 4 3/4" long. This coat hanger will be bent many times as well. The first bend we will start with the left to right same as the picture. Bend it up at 1/2", down at 1", up at 2", up at 2 3/4", down at 3 3/4", down at 4 1/4". Now looking at this at the top view. Everything should be in a straight line. Now from the top view with the first bend that you did to the left and the last bend to the right. You will need to take the last bend and bend it towards you at a 45 degree angle up.

   Now take the right side of the coat hanger and insert it into the second hole from the right of the sheet metal that you bent. Next you may have to do some tweaking, but insert the left side into the second hole from the left of the sheet metal. Now that you have your gate made you need to attach it to the plunger channel exit. Using the left over drilled holes, mark where you will need to pre-drill. Next drill a 3/32" hole and screw it down using two 3/4" round slot wood screws.

   Right in front where you hit the area to release the multi ball you will need to screw in two 1" nylon spacers using a 1 1/2" round slot wood screws. You will place one on each side and then place a rubber band in between each spacer. This will make the pinball's stay in side and when you hit it, it will release one.

Step 9: Left & Right Pinball Ramp and Return

Picture of Left & Right Pinball Ramp and Return
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Materials Needed For Step 9:
   * 1 - 1/2" by 28" Aluminum angle iron.
   * 1" Wood Screws
   * 1 - 1/2" Nylon Spacers
   * 1 - 2"x2"x5" Piece of Wood
   * Coat Hanger
   * 26 Gauge Sheet Metal
   * 2"x4" Wood
   * Indiana Jones Mountain

Pinball Return Channel:
   First cut the 1/2" aluminum angle iron to a length of 28" long. Next cut a 2"x2" piece of wood to a length of 5". Now take the 2"x2" wood and find which side that you want up and chisel or cut out a "V" shaped groove so that the angle iron fits into the groove. Next screw the 2"x2" wood into the upper left/top corner With the longest side against the left side of the pinball machine. Now you need to pre-drill two holes through the angle iron. Measure 7" from the bottom and 27" from the bottom. Next place the angle iron in the 2"x2" groove and screw it down on the top hole. Take the 1/2" nylon spacer and place it under the second hole. Screw the angle iron down through the spacer with a 1" wood screw. On the bottom of the pinball return channel you need to use a coat hanger to make the ball drop down onto the board where you want it to. Take a coat hanger and bend it down at 1 1/4". Now bend it to the right at 1 3/4" and bend it into a U-Shape around the angle iron then bend it right at 5 3/4" and down at 6 1/4". Next find where this stopper with be placed and pre-drill a 1/8" hole at a depth of 5/8". Next insert the coat hanger and test out your work. If need be make any changes.

Indiana Jones Pinball Machine:
   Take the stairs off of the mountain. Next cut out two holes. One in the front left side of the maintain. The bottom of the hole should be at 2" from the playing board. The hole should be about 1 1/8" tall and 1" wide. Also cut out another hole on the left side. The bottom should be at 1 3/8" from the playing field and the hole should measure 1" wide by 1 1/4" tall. Once the mountain is prepped you will need to mount it to the table. Take the mountain and put it against the 2"x2" and the back of the wall. Next you will need to pre-drill a couple of holes into the back of the Indiana Jones mountain and screw in a few 3/4" round slot wood screws.

Left Ramp:
   You need to figure out where you want the ramp. Next it is a good idea to draw out the path of the ramp and track. This will give you a guide when you need to bend the coat hanger. I started the ramp width at 2 1/2" and tapered up to the track that the pinball will be following. Next I cut out a piece of wood to angle up. Remember that the more steep that you have the ramp the more force you will need to hit the ball up the ramp. Once you have cut out the ramp then you will need to cut out a piece of sheet metal the same shape as the ramp. But you will need to extend the metal a little past the wood part of the ramp so that there is a good transition for the pinball. After those two pieces are cut out start to shape the track to the path that you want. Next take the the beginning of the track and place it onto of the wood part of the ramp. You will need to cut two grooves into the wooden ramp then thickness of the coat hanger and the coat hanger will need to lay of the wooden ramp about 1/2". Next take JB Weld glue the track to the wooden ramp and then glue the sheet metal to the wood. Now the ramp is complete.

   Pre-drill a 3/32" hole into the bottom of the ramp and pre-drill a 3/32" hole all the way through the playing field board where the bottom of the ramp will line up on. Next slide the track into the mountain and out the side. Pre-drill two holes next to the angle iron, into the 2"x2". Bend the end of the track and JB weld it into the two holes. On the left side of the angle iron place a coat hanger bumper there by pre-drilling two holes in the 2"x2" wood and insert the bumper into the holes. This bumper should be right across from the end of the track so that way when the pinball goes through the mountain and it wont go over the angle iron.

 

Step 10: Pinball Machine Backboard

Materials Needed For Step 10:
   * Bare Copper Wire or coat hanger
   * 7 Fishing weight
   * 2 - 3/16" by 24" All thread
   * 3/16" Nuts
   * Wood
   * 3d 1-14" Nails
   * 1" Wood screws
   * Bicycle Bell
   * 2'x2'x 3/4" thick plywood
   * 3/4" thick by 1" wood
   * Plexiglass
   * Marbles

     You first need to add 3/4"x 1 1/2" sides. Next figure out your layout that you will be doing. If you plan to use nails for a plinko sound board make sure that the marble can pass through them but to wide. Next mount the 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" thick wood at the angle and length that you want. If you want to use a marble direction changer then you just need to make sure that the design you cut out has a equal weight on each side and make sure that the nail or screw that you will be using to hold it in place is right in the center. Once the marble comes down it will fall on the mechanism and teeter to one side. When the next marble falls then it will teeter to the other side. I bought a bicycle bell that screws off of the base at walmart. Then I drilled a hole and screwed it into the hole. You can also use these bells on the playing field its self.

   Once the marble gets to the bottom you will need to make the bottom wood slanted to one side to roll the marble to one side. Then it will roll to a channel mounted to the side of the pinball machine. You will need to use a 2"x2"x3' long piece of wood and mount it on the side about 3/4" down from the top. Next cut out a length of plexiglass 3' and about 4" wide. Next you will need to place the center on an edge of a table or counter. Take your heat gun and go back and forth with it on the top then underneath and just try to evenly heat the center of the plexiglass. Once it has got hot enough all the way through the plexiglass it will start to bend on its own. For a 90% angle. Now pre-drill holes bigger than the screw that you will be using to screw it to the channel. After you are done designing the back board you will need to screw a plexiglass sheet to it so that the marble wont fall out. Now you can mount the board to the back of the pinball machine by mounting two 2"x4"s to the top back of the pinball machine and the screw the board to the 2"x4"s.

  

Step 11: Bumpers

Picture of Bumpers
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Materials Needed For Step 11:
   * 3 1/2"x1/4" Rubber bands
   * 3/8" Dowel Rods
   * Super Glue
   * Other Bumper Materials

   To make an easy DIY bumper just measure out a length of 3/8" dowel rod and glue two strips of rubber bands around the stick and cut off the extra. Now you can drill a 3/8" hole about 1/2" deep. Now insert the DIY bumper into the hole and now you have a nice sturdy bumper. You can also insert a couple of 3/8" dowel rods into some hole and then stretch a rubber band around both of them to create another bumper.

nice but most pinball machines use less electricity then a small tv

winol8 months ago

Excellent instructalbe. Can't wait to see the end product!

Awesome
ajaco392 years ago
IM GONNA MAKE THE ONE FROM DUKE NUKEM FOREVER
BTW, NICE JOB
mcsper3 years ago
Great job. I can't wait to see the final.
good choice with Indy too.
martiro73 years ago
Hay Kris82, where did you get your mad pinball machine skills? Did you repair them or manufacture them before?
Kris82 (author)  martiro73 years ago
I have just always liked pinball machines and always played them over any other game in the arcade when growing up.
dreamberry3 years ago
That's Incredible!
Hungerwood3 years ago
OMG! That's awesome right now! :) Hope you'll finish it successfully and soon!
Kris82 (author)  Hungerwood3 years ago
Right now I'm building the 3rd ramp and I have all ready made two targets that you hit and the marble falls down for you score.
OCLVig3 years ago
WOW... Nice job! I can't wait to see the final product. This is definitely an epic instructables project!
Attmos3 years ago
I agree, Really Cool!
That's sick, man.