The look we were going for as the WWI early-years, when German/Prussian troops began to "hood" their ornate helmets for tactical purposes.
This is my first instructable, so please forgive any lack of decorum.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
- A box/sheet of turbo cast; a plastic material used for prosthetics or orthopedics. You can naturally substitute this with any type of cheap material that can be bent into shape (such as cardboard).
- Podiaflex for the brims on the front and rear of the helmet, although you can use cardboard again or just trim a couple off of some old baseball caps.
- Contact cement (or any super glue)
- Fabric scraps (preferably earth-toned)
- A sewing machine/kit (for some simple weaving)
- A piece of cardboard and scissors (to make stencils/shapes)
- Can of black paint-spray
Step 1: Creating the Base/shape of the Helmet
Step 1 involves establishing the base of the helmet. If your familiar with turbo cast, you know that it is a rigid plastic material, until it is heat/steam activated. The best way to do this is to steam the turbo cast with an iron (we used an industrial one, but a household one should do).
You should try to find something to mold your turbo cast on, such as a hat stand, mannequin head, or even a soccer ball. For best results, have someone get your head measurements and then try to approximate the size of the helmet base.
When your base is done, just cut out some brim shapes from your podiaflex or cardboard, and glue them to the rims of the front and rear of the helmet base. If you use the suggested materials, they actually allow for sutures, and therefore you can actually sew the brims on for added stability.
Step 2: Making the Spikes
Once you have shaped the FIMO, just add some grooves to the bottom so the glue will be able to better seep in when you are ready to set them on the helmet base.
As you can see, we put the molded FIMO spikes into an aluminum dish and cooked them at a moderate temperature for about 35 min. You should monitor your cooking phase every 10-15 min. to make sure you don't burn your molds. Use caution (and oven gloves!)
Once your spikes are cooked, let them cool off and solidify for about 20mins. in the freezer. Then you can grab your contact cement and set them on your helmet base.
Step 3: Dressing the Helmets
Once the glue has settled and dried on your spikes (we recommend extra solidifying by running a thin screw through the roof of the helmet base, into the spike itself), you are now ready to dress the helmets.
We found some scraps from an old army coat that did the job famously. Just cut up the scraps and cover your helmets in 2 phases. First cover your main helmet, then create a sheaf-like cone piece for the spikes.
You can secure the fabric under the helmet with some glue or with a little patience, sew them to the interior for a tighter it.
Step 4: Decorations
Simply decide on the kind of shapes numbers you want to emblazon the helmets with, then just cut them out of cardboard and use a can of spray-paint to get the desired effect.
Presto, you are done!