How to Make a Homemade Pocket Knife Sharpener #2

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Introduction: How to Make a Homemade Pocket Knife Sharpener #2

Here is a picture of the finished sharpener ready to start sharpening small knives..

Step 1: Knife Holder Plans

Here is the illustration  plan i drew  for making the knife blade holder.

Step 2: Pocket Knive Blade Holder Fabrication

Pic#1  Shows  me milling   the 3/8 wide slots by  3/4 of a inch long.

pic #1,2,3   show the end slots  for  the 2 bearings  that  will roll on the end guide to keep the blade straight as it is rolled across the grinding wheel.
 
Pic#5,6,7  Show the 3 center bearing slots for the leveling of the blade holder as it passes down the  the guide.

Pic#8  Shows the clamp attached  to the holder with 3  8 x 32 x 1/2 in  screws

Step 3: Main Brackets and Supports Plan

Step 4: Main Bracket Fabrication

pic#1   Shows the (2) 1/2 inch diameter rods i drilled and tapped 1/4 x 20 x 1''  that will later be cut down to  1 1/2 inch long.

pic #2  & 3 show the drilling and cutting off of the (2)  height and support spacers

pic#4  Shows the (2) spacers installed and the support bracket welded between them.
 
pic #5 Shows the 14'' long  support rod for the slider bracket welded into place.

pic #6   shows the jack  support rod  for leveling the  14'' long support rod.

Step 5: Knife Slider Bracket Plan

Step 6: Slider Bracket Fabrication

Pic #1 &2  shows the milling of  all the surfaces  and the (2) slots so the bracket can slide towards the wheel for adjustments.


pic# 3 thru 7   Shows the slider bracket mounted in place ,  The adjustment bolt attached , The (2)  Spring assisted pins to hold tension on the slider bracket at all times, And the jack bolt attached and  leveled.

Step 7: Finding the Right Angle.

pic #1&2 Shows how i used a angle finder to get the  5 degrees i wanted for my pocket knife edge.

pic# 3&4  Shows the knife blade attached to the holder for both edges of the  blade to be sharpened..

Step 8: Video

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    29 Comments

    By the sounds of it thats a course wheel? That would prevent heat from building up in the blade which is a good idea. Are you a fitter and turner by trade? Your work is very neat. I like your intructable very cool idea.

    thank you very much. I'm just a puttered lol

    Thats a neat idea, small problem.
    This isn't suitable for knives, axes and lawn mower blades maybe, but not knives.
    The grinder heats up the blades and weakens them, even when using oil.
    The lansky system is a far better solution.
    http://lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-system/

    Yes, I agree.

    If, at 110 RPMs with a wheel that spends 1/3 of it's rotation under water, you are heating up the blade of a knife to over 420°F (the temperature you'd need to change the temper), I guarantee that you are using WAY TO MUCH force against the wheel. I sharpen knives, chisels, and other edges on a Tormek all the time and the blade barely gets hotter than room temperature.

    As underground carpenter says if you are using a wet stone at 110 RPM you are in good shape. I too have a Tormek and this duplicates it in a primitive sort of way. However I don't usually use the Tormek to sharpen knives. It is better suited for more complicated sharpening like wood turning tools. For knives I actually like the paper wheel systems, they are really nice, produce a sharp edge and are quick. I mounted mine on a cheap grinder I bought at Big Lots for like $20 I also use a belt sander mounted perpendicular to the wall with a 15 micron belt. Sometimes it's really a matter of what mood I'm in what method I use to sharpen.

    Having used similar systems to the Lansky, I can tell you they're really not that great. They're awkward to hold and use, at least for me.

    I find that my cheap $15 diamond stone set from Harbor Freight works just fine. At least until I can afford this: http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=82 ;)

    The main advantage of using a grinder like this instructable is if you have knives with damaged blades that need some serious re-shaping - although the heat is a concern, I'm much more concerned about the amount of metal that's removed. The best sharpening uses a smooth straightening steel (http://www.cutleryandmore.com/victorinox-forschner-fibrox/smooth-polished-round-sharpening-steel-p16071). If that doesn't straighten the blade out, then you move to a fine stone, then finish with the straight steel. This removes the minimal amount of metal from your blade so (hopefully) it lasts several generations.

    If it's a good blade anyway. If you have a cheep China stainless steel, by all means use this method ;)

    Actually it works just fine for knives. The wheel isnt moving fast enough and i am not taking alot of material off . And the water tank under the wheel keeps any heat away..


    Pocket knives should NEVER go anywhere near a power grinder...

    Those bench grinders are only suitable for the initial shaping of blades..

    IF a pocket knife is worth owning, then it IS worth keeping it sharp correctly ~

    And THAT means hand sharpening on a stone, with stropping on leather, and honing in between sharpening, with either a diamond hone or a strip of 'wet-and-dry' emery paper.

    5 degrees?! that sounds like an inredibly fine edge. Do you put a secondary bevel on your knives, or does that edge profile work for you? I have no idea what you cut with those knives, but i would think that such a fine edge would roll before it actually blunted.